1971 280SL Correct Head Casting Number?

[WillS]

Regarding a 1971 4sp 280SL Chassis No. 113.044 10-020431, Engine No. 130.983 10-007324.  It looks like the head has been shaved too many times as the engine pings (Dan C. rebuilt dizzy, timing is set 5d retarded, mixture 6% CO, premium gas with octane booster) no matter what I do.  The compressions are all over the map from 195psi to 130psi, so I think a rebuild is also on the horizon, blast it.  Leakdown tests show bad rings (40% dry, 10% wet).

I'm trying to locate a correct head for this car and need to find out the correct head casting number for this late 280SL engine.  The casting number on the head now is "130 016 08 01", and a further casting number to the right of the 130 number says "280 SE/A".  Also above the 130 number is "3 - 9.5" (three is backwards, like a curvy letter E).  Is this the correct head for my car?  Is this head for a 280SE Automatic or something like that?  What is the correct head casting number for this engine?  

Any help will be really appreciated.

Will

Download Attachment: 130 016 08 01.JPG
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Download Attachment: 280 SE- A.JPG
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[Naj ✝︎]

Wills
I believe you have the correct head.

This list compiled by Joe Alexander may help:

http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/ja17/200622265426_Cyl%20head%20chart%20Joe%20A%204-04.JPG

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[ja17]

Hello Will,
Yes this is a correct head for your car. It is the later series head with the "oval" combustion chambers.

The head is commonly used on the later 280SE and SEL six cylinder sedans as well as the SLs (after 1969) with the M130 engine.

Yes if the head had been badly overheated and warped, it may have high compression. The problem is that the head warps downward at the ends so that cutting it flat removes much more material at the end cylinders #1 and #6 and hardly touches the middle two. So you end up with very high compression on the ends cylinders and stock in the middle. With such a wide swing it is virtually impossible to get the engine to run well and to get the timing correct.

I fixed one of these years ago by carving material out of the combustion chambers and measured the volumes of each until they were exactly the same. It worked, but you still end up with a head which is under specs. Also if the top deck of the head is warped too badly you will run into problems with the valve cover gasket sealing and the cam stands may have to be shimmed. Only a last resort maneuver. Find a good used head first. I know of a local wrecking yard that had a complete fuel injected sedan engine for $150.00 a month ago. If I get a chance I will stop by to see if it has not been crushed.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[WillS]

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the information that I have the right head.  I found a 280SE engine locally for $1,000 that the vendor says will fit in my 280SL with only minor, completely reversible modifications (temp sender in different spot, warm-up device is a different configuration), which will allow me to rebuild my engine at leisure.  **Is this true?**  Will that engine fit with little problem?  

The engine you mention is real interesting at $150.  Would you please check the yard you mentioned to see if they have that engine?  If you can give me their number I will contact them about condition, warranty, and shipping cost.  

Also, would you please ask them if they have a correct "130 016 08 01 280 SE/A" head for my engine?  I would like to find one to keep my car as factory stock as possible.  Would you have an idea how I might track down a straight 85mm 130 016 08 01 280 SE/A head?

That's a nifty last resort fix (carving out the combustion chambers).  Thinking outside the box.

Regards,
Will

[WillS]

Naj,

Thanks for the link to Joe's chart, very helpful.  Do you have any contacts for finding a 130 016 08 01 280SE/A head you'd be willing to share?

Regards,
Will

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, Will,

 

quote:Do you have any contacts for finding a 130 016 08 01 280SE/A head you'd be willing to share?

Don't know of any at the moment - sorry, but my eyes are always peeled.

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[Klaus]

"Also above the 130 number is "3 - 9.5" (three is backwards, like a curvy letter E)"
Will,
that is the Greek letter Epsilon which is the symbol for the compression ratio, which in this case is 9.5:1

Klaus
1969 280 SL

[WillS]

I replied once to this thread and it doesn't seem to have shown up, sorry if it happens twice.

Thanks much Klaus & guys for the good information on my head.  This list is just a great resource!

I took the car to another wrench and was really impressed with him--Rob, the owner of Benz Frienz here in Seattle.  His guys are a friendly bunch too, they're all hard-working genuine vintage Mercedes enthusiasts with no bulls*@t allowed, so the gold chain set need not apply.  

Benz Frienz is the coolest operation, tucked away in an old Seattle neighborhood, Rob's been there for 20-something years.  Lots of great old Benzes there.  He has forgotten more than most of us will ever know about these vintage Benzes.  He took mine out for a diagnostic ride and came back with new information.  He ran the car with one plug lead loose on each consecutive cylinder until, on #6 (the cyl. with a 140psi compression reading), the pinging was reduced by 95% with that plug lead loose and putting the engine under load.  He thought that it was not 'pinging', but some kind of mechanical sound, like a loose valve seat, etc.. The 195psi compression reading is on cyl. #1, so that tends to confirm that it is not an excessive compression detonation/pinging noise, but something else.  

So, he's busy now, but week after next I'll be taking the car down for Rob's ministrations.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the head hasn't been shaved too much and that whatever is wrong with the head can be fixed, if the problem is in the head.  

The compression numbers range from 195psi to 130psi, 40% dry to 10% wet, which still sounds ominous.....might be ending up with a rebuild anyhow.

Regards,
Will