Gotta love that engineering, sometimes

[Joe]

Today, I decided to tackle an easy chore: the replacement of the front metal brake lines. Boy, was I wrong. Can anyone explain why an engineer would design this so the valve cover has to come off in order to replace a friggin brake line? I suspect the brake lines were installed before the engine went in, and no thought went into how easy it would be to replace them.
I think summer will be gone before I get this crate on the road.
Joe

[Tom]

Joe,

You must be replacing one of the metal brake lines that go from the master cylinder to the front passenger wheel.  I can see how the valve cover might interfere.

Removing the valve cover is one of the easier items to remove, however.  It looks intimidating the first time through, but you can have the valve cover off in less than 5 minutes.

Best,

Tom

[Joe]

Yes, I did remove the valve cover, and it was relatively easy.
There are a series of screwed-on clamps that hold the brake line, and one of them is right behind the valve cover. After the cover is removed, then one needs a phillips head screwdriver about one inch long to get the screw out. I used a phillips bit to an impact driver set and held it in small vice grips. It probably took 35 minutes to work that one screw out, and if it had been a hex-head screw, it would have taken two minutes. It would still be there if it had been tightened like the rest of them.
Of course, one cannot get to this point until he has completely disconnected the accelerator linkage that is attached to the firewall (since the screws that secure the brake line are underneath this linkage), and the brake booster and the coolant tank. When I removed the four screws that secure the accelerator linkage to the firewall, one of the nuts that snap into the firewall fell back behind the firewall. Guess where? Into the heater box.
I's starting to think I may be a Buick guy after all.
Joe

[n/a]

Joe, a Buick guy after all, that seems a bit extreme.
Have you looked under the hood of a Buick lately.  It could take you 3 days of removing the shrouds and smog crap just to find the accelerator linkage.

Yea, some times you do have to wonder if they ever tried removing some parts with major components like the engine and transmission installed.

Michael

[Richard Madison]

Not to change the subject of this thread but for a car engine that's easy to maintain you gotta go with the vintage Mustangs. I have owned three 1966 Mustangs: a straight 6, and two V8's...they were a dream to adjust and repair. Lots of bolt-ons: unbolt, pay $50 for replacement, bolt on the new piece. Even the 4 barrel carb needed only a screwdriver...
So if it was so easy, why did I sell the Mustangs and buy 280 SL (which takes a lot more than a screwdriver)? The Mustang was easy to fix but it is a toy compared to these elegant, sophisticated cars. I still love the look of the old Mustangs but I love owning a 113 even more.
Richard M

[Cees Klumper]

On the topic of tight-to-reach phillips (and slotted) screws: years ago I bought a very good-quality screwdriver at Sears, that looks like a wrench, with at each end pressed in, a steel screwdriver (Phillips on one end: large upside, small downside - and slotted on the other end: large upside, and small downside). Kind of difficult to explain, but it's designed to work in very cramped quarters because each of the four screwdrivers extends no more than about a half inch, and the handle/wrench part provides the leverage. I still use it from time to time and it's been one of those very handy tools that can make life so much easier. I'm sure you can find them at the better-assorted hardware stores anywhere.

[n/a]

OK, have you ever changed the wiper motor on a '64 Buick Riviera? How about having to drop the engine to change the plugs on those 80's GM compacts. I can't even remember thier name now. Monza or something like that. Rear power window motor on a '66 Bonneville convertible anyone? Good luck. Heater core on 99.9% of the cars out there for that matter. Although I think the engineers could have made parts changing easier, think how long that part has been in there before needing changing. And a lot of engineers figure that removing parts to get to other parts is just part of the procedure for a skilled mechanic with the proper tools, and a well equipped shop. Very few cars are built for do it yourselfers.

Rudy
Los Angeles
1971 280 SL

[W113SL]

quote:Originally posted by Joe

Today, I decided to tackle an easy chore: the replacement of the front metal brake lines. Boy, was I wrong. Can anyone explain why an engineer would design this so the valve cover has to come off in order to replace a friggin brake line? I suspect the brake lines were installed before the engine went in, and no thought went into how easy it would be to replace them.
I think summer will be gone before I get this crate on the road.
Joe

Joe, You are absolutely correct,  The engine was installed after all the plumbing was connected.  I wondered if you had to jack up the rear of the engine in order to remove the valve cover?  If so, the rear motor mount ,AKA transmission mount. has collapsed causing the engine to tilt rearward.  This may has exacerbated yourlack of clearance with the valve cover.

Pete Lesler