Author Topic: Electric Fuel Pump  (Read 11048 times)

Naj ✝︎

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Electric Fuel Pump
« on: May 08, 2003, 07:04:24 »
I want to replace the brushes on my late type small electric fuel pump.
Any advice or do's and don'ts??
maj

naj
hobel 65 230SL
jalopyno 68 280SL
68 280SL

n/a

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2003, 08:38:50 »
Naj,
I rebuilt mine about a year ago and there was nothing particularly difficult.....after finally getting it removed from the car. The brushes are spring loaded and the car had sat long enough that they were no longer sliding as they should have.
Mine is from a 1970 280sl and I am not certain if it the same as your fuel pump.

Regards,
Stan

ja17

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2003, 20:27:33 »
One thing to look out for, those little slotted screws holding the bottom of the pump can easily break off if corroded. Use some penatrant and tap on them with a small hammer to free them up before attempting removal.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Naj ✝︎

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2003, 02:23:11 »
Hi Joe,
Got the cover off ok with overnite soak in penetraring oil.
Would you polish off the score marks on the bottom cover(Slightly marked but not deep)?
naj


naj
hobel 65 230SL
jalopyno 68 280SL
68 280SL

ja17

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2003, 21:39:27 »
Hello Naj,
Rub the cover over 600 wet dry sandpaper on a flat glass plate. Wet down the sandpaper before beginning. You may have to leave some of the deepest marks. Pay attention the impeller goes on one way.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Naj ✝︎

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2003, 02:46:02 »
Thanks for that Joe.
Wasn't sure which paper to use!
naj

naj
hobel 65 230SL
jalopyno 68 280SL
68 280SL

George Des

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2003, 08:14:50 »
Naj,

The new style pump like yours is a simple matter to rebuild providing the communtator on the armature is not that far gone. As pointed out, the biggest problem is usually encountered in disassembling because the screws tend to rust up so bad. This isn't quite the problem on the newer pumps as it was on the older, large style pumps which are a little more difficult to rebuild but certainly can be. With the newer pumps, I usually take them completely apart, cleaning thoroughly.

These are "wet" pumps and the brushes and armature "ride" in the gasoline, so if the gasoline has been sitting in the pump for sometime, it tends to congeal with the carbon brush dust to from a paste that gums up the brushes in their holders. When you remove the armature make sure you note the number of shims under the e-clip that holds the armature in--you'll need to replace these exactly. There most like will be a set of shims on the opposite side i.e. inside the area where the bushes are mounted. Once apart give the armature a good cleaning with electric contact cleaner/degreaser. Find youself some very fine sandpaper (#3000 or more) and polish up the commutator until it is a shiny copper color. If the com is really "tracked", I'd use some rougher paper to turn the comm preferably with the armature mounted either in a lathe or good drill press.

The brushes are fairly staightforward to remove with a desoldering tool and replace with a dab of solder--this is the easiest part of the job. Clean out the "can", find youself some new rubber o-rings of the correct size and re-assemble. Before re-assembling the whole pump, you may want to just reassemble the motor part and "run" the new brushes in by connecting up to some 12 volt power source and letting the motor run for a while. It also helps to periodically reverse the leads to let the brushes wear in during this short "run in period".

First thing you'll need to do once assembled is to make yourself a little test device out of an old bucket and some hoses so you can conect up and test for leaks. I usually do this with some diesel fuel because it's afer and I'm a "scarey cat" around gasoline and sparks. You don't want to find out you have leaks after you go through the pain of re-installing the pump. This is a real easy job to do. If anyone needs similar advice on how to approach the older pumps let me know--I've done about 10 of them with real good results. Good luck

George Des

hands_aus

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2003, 06:45:44 »
Hey guys,

Sorry to resurect an old topic but I need advice.

In preparation for doing a repair job on the leaking old style electric fuel pump, I was trying to remove the big external cover today.  

The cover bolt/nut combination towards the rear of the car came apart very easily. It also had very good, easy access.

The cover bolt/nut combination near the axle just kept on turning. Is the bolt supposed to be fixed to the inside of the boot floor?

The bolt has a round flat head on it. How do I remove this bolt/nut?

Are the bolts that hold the fuel pump to the car supposed to be the same?

I have been thinking of having all the bolt heads welded to the boot floor again.

Your advice is greatly appreciated.

regards

Bob(Brisbane,Australia)
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best

Naj ✝︎

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #8 on: July 14, 2003, 07:48:44 »
Bob,
The round headed bolt in my 230sl also turned and was badly corroded.
Need to cut it off and replace. Helps if you have a dremel!

The bolt on the 280sl was brazed to the floor and also broke. I drilled thru the head and tapped threads to accept another 6mm bolt.

If you want to braze the bolts, the tank will probably have to come out because of the high heat!

The bolts on the fuel pump bracket screw into the cross member and come off much easier.



naj
'Kloines Scheisserle'
65 230SL
68 280SL
68 280SL

hands_aus

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Re: Electric Fuel Pump
« Reply #9 on: July 14, 2003, 15:01:18 »
Hey Naj,

Not exactly want I wanted to see, I was looking for a miracle, but thanks anyway.

The bolts can be replaced if needed.

Bob(Brisbane,Australia)
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best