1972 280SE Running, Sort of ...

[ctaylor738]

Another update from your 113-wannabe

I managed to get the original fuel pump to work, so with cleaned injectors, fresh oil, fresh gas, and a new fuel filter, the "barn find" 280SE rumbled to life.  

Currently running quite rich and rough, smoking at idle, but no blow-by. #2 cylinder is dead - plug is firing but wire can be disconnected and idle stays the same.  I am not sure if it is injector or compression.

Looking forward to learning more about this engine.  This website is a huge help.

Chuck Taylor

Chuck Taylor
107 Addict
Falls Church VA

[ja17]

Hello Chuck,
The #2 plug has probably fuel fouled due to the rich mixture. The warm up device on the pump is probably stuck in the rich position from sitting too long. This can be freed up.
Check to see if the slide valve in the unit is stuck then replace the fouled plugs.

Download Attachment: warm up device.jpg
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Download Attachment: warm up device parts.jpg
50.92 KB

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[merrill]

joe,
can this device be checked with out removing it from the car?
my sl has been sitting for a while & when I removed the plugs all were fouled.

if it has to be removed, are there any gaskets or seals required for re assembly?

thanks
matt

[ctaylor738]

I am on it.  Will also check compression.

The plug was sooty, but not fouled.  And I got a strobe when I put the timing light on the wire.

Chuck Taylor
107 Addict
Falls Church VA

[ctaylor738]

#2 was pulling its weight today, and the exhaust smelled less rich.  I fixed a binding in the throttle linkage (transmission linkage pivots) and took it for a short drive.  Pullled #1 and #2 when I got back and they both looked OK.

Chuck Taylor
107 Addict
Falls Church VA

[ja17]

Hello Merrill,
Yes you can check the functioning of the device by using a rubber hose as a stethoscope and listen at the air filter on the injection pump, to see if the suction noise goes away as the engine warms up.

If you do need to remove it, no gaskets or seals are required. I use a little gasket shellac on mating surfaces to make sure things seal up.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[ctaylor738]

Just to close this one out -

Check compression, which was OK on all cylinders. Decided to re-check #2 injector, and discovered (to my embarassment) that it was not tight in the head.  Fixed that, and engine is running much better.

Stills smells rich, so I will dismantle the warm-up device and make sure nothing is sticking there.

Chuck Taylor
107 Addict
Falls Church VA

[ctaylor738]

Cleaned up the warm-up device per Joe's excellent pictures.  There was some rust and scale in the water chamber, but everything seems to move freely.  Put it back together, warmed it up, and took the car for a two-mile drive.  All of the plugs have a good burn.

The car seems to be running better as it gets more time with fresh gas.  I could still smell the stale gas when I had the warm-up device apart.

I am enjoying learning about this engine and appreciate this forum as a resource.

Chuck Taylor
107 Addict
Falls Church VA

[ctaylor738]

Hello, 113 Wannabe again.

One step forward, two steps back.  Tom S loaned me a set of wheels & tires, which I installed and took the car for its longest drive yet.  The good news is that it drove much better with round tires.  The bad news is that the vibration from the driveshaft bushing is now very apparent without the tires thumping.

The other bad news is that my fuel tank cleanout was unsucessful.  Nearing the end of my long (2 mile) drive, the engine started sputtering but got me back home, barely.  Pulled the fuel line off at the electric pump and got a truly pathetic dribble.  So I will need to off-load the gas, pull the tank, and have it boiled and coated, which I was hoping to avoid.

Not engine related, I got a great deal from Grandmabenz on e-Bay on an almost new window regulator including the motor.  So now I have an operating driver's window and an extra motor.

Stay tuned.


Chuck Taylor
107 Addict
Falls Church VA

[Abbas]

Joe,
  Just wondering do we need to often clean the air filter
on the warm up device. I think my cars is original that
has never been changed. How do you clean it by water or just
blowing air inside - - what is it made of - anyone has opened these
before?

Abbas

280SL W113 1969 Ivory
E280 W124 1995 Silver

[ctaylor738]

Dropped the tank yesterday, and while there was a fair amount of rust, the tank screen did not seem to be clogged to the point of starving the engine, and the flow out the hose was OK.  So I pulled the pump, and took a look at the internal filter, which turned out to be completely clogged with what appeared to be petrified fuel.  

So much for "rebuilt" pumps from e-bay.

So the filter went in the carb cleaner pot overnight and is now looking good.  The tank gets boiled this week and then we'll try again.

Chuck Taylor
107 Addict
Falls Church VA

[George Des]

Chuck

Any of these pumps left standing and idle with fuel in it is going to either clog up or "freeze" up over time. Many pumps that are rebuilt, are tested to determine whether they meet spec or leak. If the fuel is not totally emptied from them when they are put back on the shelf, the fuel is going to congeal. I just got back into several pumps I rebuilt last year and tested, some with diesel and some with gasoline--guess what--I had to "unfreeze" the vane on a few of them. The point of all this is, even if you get a rebuilt pump, it would behoove you to at least pull the bottom off along with the inlet fitting to make sure you've got a clean pump.

George Des