quote:
Originally posted by DUBL07
Please advise on the best methods, precautions, dangers, after-care (lubrication, drying, etc) and any thoughts.
Sorry, no experience doing that on these old cars, but the links provided look like a good place to start.
quote:
Originally posted by DUBL07
Thanks for the welcome... after months of research and negotiating with my wife (2 months from having her first child and about to move into newly built house - where are your priorities Chris?)I just purchased a 1970 280 with a recently rebuilt engine.
Wow, that's when most people sell their SL! Congratulations!
quote:
Originally posted by DUBL07
I gambled that the lack of rust anywhere else (rails, wheel-wells, etc.) and the rebuilt engine will make this project worth-while.
Big gamble, as rust can hide (or, be hidden) many places. Here's a few places to check (you may have already):
- Fuel tank. Do a search here for "tank tour".
- Front fenders. Feel up from the wheel well to the flat ledge up under the fender. Wear a glove the first time, don't need to get cut by rusty metal!
- Headlight buckets. Remove the headlights, not difficult. Also, look from behind in the wheel well. Poke with screwdriver.
- Firewall box section. Search for "firewall rust" or such.
Best of luck to you. If you've already accepted replacing some floor and trunk panels then rust problems must not intimidate you much. Fix her up and enjoy the "new" car! There's a lot of other members in the NY, CT, MA area, so you'll have fun going to Pagoda events in your area. Here's one in VA that's a bit of a long drive, but would be a great benefit to you:
http://index.php?topic=5897RoddPowell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420