What 3 things would you do ?? (to improive ride)

[n/a]

Something about my "new" '71 says it needs some attention in the ride/transmission/handling department. The engine is rock solid and rebuilt about 3K miles ago so I'd like feedback on other areas folks would suggest I make my next investment.

I am on the younger side and I guess you could fault me for expecting otherwise from a car but her shifts (auto) are a little "jarring" (is this genetic to the vintage?) and I feel she's generally a bit loose. I've seen mention of various rubber components (bushings) being replaced and I am wondering if these might help - both in the engine mounting area and in the drive train. I believe the shocks are newer and the brakes as well but I am thinking that after 35 years, some stuff is just worn, broken, disintegrated or plain tired and just needs to be replaced.

thanks!!!

[KevinC]

In my opinion, a "jarring" upshift sounds like its typical for these cars. I had a 114 at one time, too and it felt exactly the same. I believe that there is a modulator adjustment but if you back off too much it doesnt feel right either.

Kevin Caputo
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex

[jeffc280sl]

Find someone that has "upgraded" an SL and take it for a spin.  Or do it the other way around and see what he has to say about your car.  There are suspension mods like springs, shocks, sway bars and bushings.  You can find some 15in wheels and try some performance tires. You can install calipers and rotors from a V8 sedan.  Just a few things that come to mind.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[ja17]

Hello Kevin,

Correct adjustment of the engine linkages, especially at the venturi stop screw is critical as a firs step. Make sure the stop screw is set to just barely keep the venturi valve from binding closed. It is often mistakenly adjusted open! The switch on this venturi changes the transmission modulator pressure.  Search up a lot of information on this list if you need more specifics. Next remove the inspection cover under the carpet on the tunnel inside the car (passenger side). You can view the three position solenoid and its linkage. At idle the linkage should be in the rear or down most position. At partial throttle the linkage should be in the center position. At kick down the linkage should be at the forward most position.

As far as best ride quality and handling, tires make a big difference, bad motor mounts transmit a lot of engine and chassis vibration, original gas filled Bilstein Shocks vastly improve ride quality. Non gas filled substitutes in general just do not compare. Worn tie rod ends, drag links, and other front end parts give a loose, rattle prone handling feeling. Replacing any of the many rubber suspension and chassis rubber mounts will also improve the feel and handling of the car. Improperly hung exhaust will create a symphony of rattles, squeaks, bumps and bangs.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[France]

Hi Guys,

Carling's upshift is quite pronounced too.  My Lord and Master says it is a generic old-Merc trait.  As he grew up with them in the land of the Autobahn, he may know a thing or two...



Trice
1968 280SL US, signal red/bl leather, auto, kinder seat
Sarasota FL; Alsace France; Switzerland
You only need 2 tools in life: WD40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop.

[Raymond]

The 3 things I would do:
1. Replace the springs with 20% stiffer linear springs, Koni Classic shocks, and replace all rubber parts with new or nylon.  (I've completed the project and am in the fine tuning stage.  This is a huge improvement.)

2. Install Crane X-700 ignition

3. Install 5-speed transmission. This will probably be a Ford T-5.

For those with automatics, I had a chance to drive Cees' car in Amsterdam in May, and his shifts as smoothly as a new car transmission.  Clunking shifts seem to be more a problem than a trait.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[enochbell]

For my money, it's all about rubber: tires, subframe mounts, torsion bar bushings, engine mounts.  Replace these and you will see huge improvements in noise supression and feel.  It will then expose other faults, if they are present, like idler arm bushing, steering box play, steering damper and ball joints.  Last thing would be control arm bushings which, unless they have gone unattended by PO, should last longer than any of the above.

That said, I am still searching for the answer to a metallurgical question: Do springs get more or less compliant as they are aged/stressed.  One source says that the molecular changes that happen to spring steel would cause springs to actually stiffen as they wear.  I can probably till sleep without the answer, but it is a reasonable question.

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[scheutw]

The first thing I would do is replace the tires with new Coker Phoenix 185's and see what the difference is. It made a terrific difference in my cars ride and handling!

1966 230SL

[hands_aus]

Hey racefaith,
to see an online catalogue which shows all the rubber and other parts have a look here
http://213.239.220.84/start/index.phtml The company is based in Germany and is called SLS
There is an English version.
I have replaced my rear supension rubbers with genuine MB rubber parts. At this time i am having the front rubber suspension replaced along with new Bilstein shock absorbers and having the front brakes rebuilt with ATE parts.

Once the electrical side of the engine and transmission is working correctly your transmission will change very smoothly with no clunking.

Do a search for 'clunking' 'suspension rubbers' in fact anything w113 you can think of has already been discussed.

I hope you have some spare time to read all the information that you find.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto