New Owner With a Lot of Questions

[erickmarciano]

Hello my name is Erick Marciano from Montreal and I just purchased a euro 1971 280sl today , it has 70 000km and need a paint job here are my questions

1-what is diferent from euro specs except the headlight> it is from germany
2-what do i do for a major tune-up beside plugs ,wires , timing ,all oils and antifreeze and belts

3-can I use the new orange long last antifreeze?and any tricks for flushing the coolant?

4-where can I get a chrome rim for the clock?

5-where is the cheapest place to buy body parts from even europe?

6-the chrome piece where the hard top screws on is cracked, where can I find one?

7-do not have the manual yet, what oil do I need for the engine,for the 4sp tranny, for power steering, for brakes and clutch cylinder?

8-is it normal that my gas gage fluctuates as I hit the throttle?
sorry to bore you all.  I am an expert in vespas not MB yet
thanks
Erick

1971 280sl
1962 VW
1954 Allstate vespa
1958 gs150 vespa
1962 gs160 vespa

[rwmastel]

Erick,
Congratulations on your new purchase and welcome to the group!  Here's some answers to your questions, I put question marks in some places where others can provide more or better details.  I also have a suggestion.

0 - Use the search function on the forum AND on the home page.  The one on the home page searches the forum and the Technical Articles.  You can find many answers, or at least educate yourself more, before asking your question.  I can't emphasize this enough since we have thousands of posts now.

1 - Euro:  Some models (280SL only?) had a higher performance cam.  Headlights are different.  Headrests not required.  Seat belts optional (to a later date?).  Instruments in metric.  Usually no bumper guards on the bumpers.  If it's an auto transmission, the Euros commonly had an "Automatic" trunk badge.  I've seen an extra chrome strip below the rear license plate for the narrow plates (UK only?).

2 - Major tune up can have many meanings.  Are you trying to do preventitive maintenance?  Did someone say it needed a "major" tune up?  There is an extreamly long list of items you could replace, adjust, inspect, or clean so tell us your main goal first.

3 - Antifreeze is a widely debated topic, just like engine oil.  I use standard MB antifreeze that I get at the MB dealer.

4 - There are clock refurbishers, check the vendors database on the home page.

5 - I think I saw someone recommend K&K Mfg. to you on another post.  Again, check vendor list.

6 - Vendor list, or e-bay.

7a - First, manuals.  I don't know how much maintenance and repair you plan to do yourself.  I think all W113 owners should have an owner's manual, the MB Shop Manual (Big Blue Book, or BBB), the MB Spare Parts List book, and the Haynes manual.  Even if you don't fix everything yourself, you will be better educated when you talk with your mechanic.

7b - Engine oil?  This could be it's own thread.  Many people use many types.  Traditional, Synthetic Blend, and True Synthetic are all used by various owners.  Many different weights are used.  I can't recommend anything in particular.  Search for oil seal or oil gasket to learn about a key seal often missing fro the filter system.  Trans fluid?  I think even the manuals use ATF (Automatic Trans Fluid).  I can't recommend a brand, whatever MB recommends in the owners manual is probably good.  Same with everything else, use the owners manual recommendations unless others here can prove otherwise.

8 - How much does it fluctuate?  How hard are you hitting the throttle?  I assume this is while you are in gear and the car moves when hitting the throttle.

Sometimes with so many questions it's best to brake them up into their own threads.  Easier to manage the information and discussion that way.

Enjoy the new group!!

Rodd
1966 230SL Euro
1994 E420

[Cees Klumper]

Major tune-up:

- make sure you lube the chassis - many lube points there - don't forget the driveshaft lube point and the door hinges
- don't replace the spark plug wires if they are good (original) - just check the resistance and leave them if they are OK. Do check the points and, if you're up to it, fit an electronic ignition module
- check the differential oil level. These rear-ends rarely go bad, except of course if you run them low on oil
- check the transmission oil level
- check the proper operation of the cold start thermostat on the fuel injection pump, and the cold start injection valve on the intake manifold (instructions must be in the knowledge base somewhere) - this can save you from a bunch of fuel consumption / cold or hot starting problems.
- you can also replace the cold start thermostat filter that is located on the FI pump
- check the gas linkage adjustments
- check the idle mixture (loosen the linkage at the FI pump, move the control rod across the engine and observe whether the engine speeds up or slows down, indicating an incorrect mixture - adjustable with the screw at the back of the pump)
- make sure your distributor is the correct type for your engine
- check the condition of the air filter and replace if necessary
- if you can, check the condition of the aluminum spacer inside the tachometer drive assembly - these tend to wear which can cause some major problems down the road, i.e. when the oil pump drive pops loose
- check your fuel pump efficiency (= flow and pressure), condition of the fuel filter
- DEFINITELY check your oil filter canister: the seals (especially the top one) should all be in place. If the top one is missing, you don't get any benefit from the filter
- check the condition of the subframe, engine and transmission mounts. Replace when bad
- check the suspension in general for wear etc
- make sure the shocks and springs are in good operating condition
- make sure the fuel overflow and breathing canister in your trunk is hooked up properly, and that the hoses are not leaking
- check the condition of the various water drainage pipes, particularly underneath the dash
- fix the 'softtop curl in the rear problem' if you have it (fold the corners down when you stow the top)
- get some documentation like the Haynes manual and the Big Blue Book (workshop manual)
- replace the brake fluid if you're not sure how long it's been in there. Better make sure you know whether it's conventional or silicone-based
- make sure the exhaust manifold fits tightly against the exhaust downpipes
- check to make sure you ahve all the rubber exhaust hanging donuts and the exhaust is not touching the body or the tires anywhere
- check the condition of your brakes (!)
- don't be alarmed by nose diving upon hard braking. They all do that (except the ones with progressive rate springs)
- think about replacing the clock altogether with a quartz one by Kienzle - I did and I finally can trust the time that the clock is showing

I am sure I missed many things ...