Added as the story goes on: 02 April 2007
My car is now finally on the road - he's a tip many will forget though most will know is something we should do: what those in the military term 'halt parades' i.e. when you drive something for the first time after a long time of not having done so, check a few things after you've covered a few miles:
- Look inside the engine bay and check for leaks; hoses, pipes, gaskets, etc.
- Important: check the wheel hubs with the back of your hand to see if they're running hot (you need to have the wheel covers off for this, obviously). Use the back of your hand so you don't burn your palm, thus making driving home more unpleasant. If the hubs are hot (as opposed to vaguely warm) you need to deal with it. Hopefully they just need more grease, but worst case it could be a bearing. Either way, you need to check. (I did so after 4 miles - my front hubs were hot = problem; yet to be investigated).
- Check undre the car for any leaks you may not have seen in the engine bay.
'Halt parades' or call them what you will, could identify a problem early, such as a loss of fluid, or bearing on the way out. If you haven't driven the car for a long time, it could save you lots of money for the sake of a few minutes checking things.
2.5 months after having bought my 1967 230SL manual, (light blue, dark blue hood) car over the internet (we’ve been over that), my car has arrived from the US, through Bremerhaven and is now united with me in Germany. As I watched it approach on the transporter today my heart was in my mouth having no real idea of the condition. I’ve now had a cursory look over it before it is examined by the German government types who have to approve the car for road use, may God bless their efficient souls. I have no doubt they’ll flag up umpteen things that need to be done before I can register it, so it’ll be trailered off to my garage and then the fun begins. Not. I shall post photos shortly.
The car has some problems. Whilst it seems structurally sound (not yet removed the sills/rocker panels/rip out the boot carpet in full, etc) there are holes in the floor panels sufficient to have to mop out the drivers side when the car came off the truck. It starts well and the engine sounds good. I have no receipts for work done and so am assuming all key components will require examination.
So, I’m now asking myself where to start with examination and remedial maintenance. I’ve been looking through the site for a while and have compiled a list that I would like the more experienced to cast a final eye over before I start buying stuff. Please tell me what else might be added to the list. (And perhaps with a little effort and feedback this could become an article on the technical forum: ‘The First Few Steps.’ Many new owners ask the same question and whilst I know there is a great deal of info on the site, the fact that new car owners will probably be new members, ergo not familiar with the site, it follows that they will also be unfamiliar with the excellent search tool. It would be easier, perhaps, to point them (me) to a link in the tech forum).
The info:
- Tyre pressure
- Replace all fluids (motor oil, trans, coolant, injection pump, steering, differential, brakes…and switch to synthetic lubricants
- check brake pads disks, handbrake and adjust where necessary
- check shocks, springs
- filters & filter seals
- grease the suspension & drive line grease fittings
- change engine belts
- change coolant hoses
- check the whole fuel system for rust (how exactly??)
- test the ignition system (timing, gap, dwell, etc.)
- retighten the head bolts
- adjust the valve clearance
- check timing chain for slack
- do a compression test and leak down test
- testing the electric fuel pump's delivery rate and pressure
(Basically a direct left from a thread by rwmastel – copyright reserved, etc)
Add in the useful tips from knirk about maintenance with which no one seems to disagree:
- Add 2 dl (2/10 of a liter) two stroke oil to every tank of gas. (to lubricate the fuel injection pump elements and the fuel injectors)
- When setting the ignition timing: Don't worry about the lower range (idle - 1500) settings. Use the 30 deg. at 3000rpm (without vacum).
- When adjusting idle speed and CO: Aim for an idle rpm of 800. The CO value should be 4.5%. It should be this rich to avoid slow response when accelerating from idle. Always adjust the idle speed with the idle air screw, and then read the CO.
Finally, and at the risk of having this overlooked after a long and frankly rather basic thread, can anyone advise on repairing a small (2”) rip in the hood before I simply dig the puncture repair kit from my saddlebag?
ANY advice/feedback gratefully received, as ever.
James
