Front (back) Grill - screws & color

[dtuttle123]

Question for the group -

I want to repaint my front (back) grill (the black one - not the chome, of course!)  There are 6-8 screws holding the top of the grill to the body, and I suspect there are 6-8 screws on the bottom - how do I get in there to take these bottom screws out?  Is this a 'remove the hood' problem?  Second question - assuming I can get the grill out - what's the correct finish?  My grill appears to be 'mat black' but it may be fadded - is it 'mat' or 'gloss' back?

Thanks, Doug
1967 250SL 4-Speed
Orient Red

[mdsalemi]

Hello Doug,

Having purchased these new a couple of years ago (they are expensive for stamped aluminum!), I can assure you that the proper color is a "satin" black.  The satin finish fades to matte over time.

Mine were replaced with the hood off, but you might be able to get at the screws from underneath the car with a stubby screwdriver.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[waltklatt]

Doug,
The top screws are easy to get to, but the bottoms are very hard to get to with the exception of the ones closest to the star barrel.  The hood does need to come out and the battery and the air filter canister.  Then you can squeeze your hands between the radiator and the screens to put them in.  Before putting the new/old screens back in take the time to put some masking tape onto the screw tabs for the screens before installing them.  The tape acts as a protector for the paint.  
Actually for the originality minded individuals, these small screws are not screws, but small 7 or 8mm(forgot) bolts with a wide washer on them.  Makes it a lot easier to install with a close end wrench than with a stubby screwdriver.  
I can take a picture of mine and post it shortly.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel

[dtuttle123]

Uggg!  Doesn't sound like an easy job - especially for someone with large hands!  Thanks for the information - that's one of the real values of this group - to get the collective knowledge, tips & experience - before we get ourselves into trouble!   Doug

[waltklatt]

Doug,
You should see my hands too.  They are big hamfisted ones that take a lot of abuse.
Several times people have asked me, "Are you depressed or something?"   I always look at them funny and reply, "What do you mean?"  And they say, "Your hands look like an accident with the razor."  
I just laugh and explain to them that I love working on the old Mercedes cars and was crawling behind the dash.  
There are worse jobs and there are those unthinkable jobs.   Only once you've reached the unthinkable, then does everything else pale in comparision.  Part of the learning curve.
Not to mention the pain from the sprains and contortions.  The scrapes and cuts are part of the typical package.
And Yes: this is an excellent group and even, I'm learning a few things every day from the others on board.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel (soon to recieve it's new modified heat/vent/AC system.)

[ted280sl]

Doug,
  If you are a relatively new owner of your car you might consider that many of us have had over heating problems. An early place to look to solve this problem is to have your rdiator re-cored. I assure you that with the radiator out it is very easy to remove the black paneks behind the chrome grill.
Ted
1969 280SL

[DavidBrough]

Hi Doug,

The black grill may be a bit difficult to remove but it is worth it. Mine was quite chipped and looked a bit rough and no manner of touching up seemed to work for very long as the paint soon came off. At one stage I even tried cleaning and spraying it whilst still in place. Nothing worked properly.

Eventually I bit the bullet and removed it, had it blasted and powder coated satin black. The difference to the whole look of the car from the front was amazing and well worth the effort. Yes you are best to remove the hood, but that’s not difficult, just remove the bracket on the air filter side and it comes right off. But do first get one of those S hooks from a DIY store used to hold buckets or paint tins on ladders to secure the support arm, there’s a convenient hole in the hood right by the stay mount. Being aluminium its very light but do also spread some cloth or newspaper around the opening edges to protect the paint. Refitting is straight forward as one hinge remains in its original place. The best tool for removing the small bolts is a swivel head ratchet spanner, can’t remember the size though.


David Brough
1969 280SL

[n/a]

dtuttle123

One other word of caution.  If you should decide to remove the black grille pieces, be sure to put in ALL the screws (bolts) when you reinstall the grille.  If even one of the screws is left out, the grille will vibrate and crack.  

Good luck

Iverson

[sterl]

Doug,

I agree that painting these grilles transforms the appearance. I found that even with the hood off and the canister out etc. I still couldn't access one of the bottom screws without loosening the radiator mounting bolts and removing the lower ones so I could rock the rad enough to give me access.

Mark

Billericay, Essex, UK
Late 67 LHD 250SL

[jsaylor]

Doug,

I just pulled mine Sat.  The top screws and the two closest to the Star barrel wher ok with a supper short ( 1.25") screw driver, the outside two I was able to get to with an extra long screw driver from behind and under the battery.
Good luck.
I stripped my entire car Sat. and delivered to my paint shop, a new years gift.

 

Jim Saylor
Kauai, Hawaii
'65 230SL

[jsaylor]

Doug,

I just pulled mine Sat.  The top screws and the two closest to the Star barrel wher ok with a supper short ( 1.25") screw driver, the outside two I was able to get to with an extra long screw driver from behind and under the battery.
Good luck.
I stripped my entire car Sat. and delivered to my paint shop, a new years gift.

 

Jim Saylor
Kauai, Hawaii
'65 230SL