Power Steering Pump Pully

[aomastu]

Hello,

I am trying to get the power steering pump removed.  It is leaking.

I removed the radiator and am set to take off the pump.  As I am removing the front retaining bolt holding on the pump, it hits the pulley before it releases.

Do I need to remove the pulley before taking the pump off of the car?

Thanks for the help in this (I thought) simple job.

Stuart


'69 280sl
P.O. Box 150128
Austin, TX  78715

[ja17]

Hello Stuart,

Yes, you must remove the pulley before all the pump mounting bolts can be removed. A special puller is tool of choice. The 280SL has the tapered pump shaft and pulley. If no puller is available, very gently put some pressure on the pulley (do not bend the pulley) wind the nut out flush to the end of the shaft, and while carefully prying, smack the end of the shaft with a soft mallet (wood or plastic). The pulley should pop loose.  The earlier cars (early 230SL)  did not have the tappered shaft and removal can be more difficult. Don't loose track of the spacer on the rear mounting bolt!



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[aomastu]

Thanks Joe,

Wouldn't I also need to take off the bolt on the front of the pulley?  When I try to remove it, the pulley turns.  Is there a good way to stop this?

'69 280sl
P.O. Box 150128
Austin, TX  78715

[ja17]

Hello Sruart,

Notice the flat area behind the nut on the pulley. You can use a large size wrench or adjustable wrench to hold the pulley.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[aomastu]

Hey Joe,

I couldn't budge the nut, but I hit it with PB Blaster and will give it a try tomorrow pm.

I think the money I saved in my initial cost of this car will be made up in Gojo money.

Thank you for the tips.

'69 280sl
P.O. Box 150128
Austin, TX  78715

[aomastu]

Yipes!

Still no luck with the nut.

Any tips on busting the thing?

PB Blaster?  Time?  I heard heat might/would hurt the pulley.  True?

'69 280sl
P.O. Box 150128
Austin, TX  78715

[George Des]

The problem with putting heat on that nut is that you most likely will have to replace the front shaft seal. I did this on mine, so I know from experience.

George Des

[aomastu]

George,

So, you got the nut off, but ruined the pulley.

Where did you get a new one?

'69 280sl
P.O. Box 150128
Austin, TX  78715

[ja17]

Hello Stuart,

You need wrenches with longer handles! It is just a matter of leverage and force to get the nut off.  You may have to use a 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar.  If you know someone who has an electric impact gun it works best. If you have a compressor a pneumatic impact works also.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[aomastu]

I have the breaker bar, but I will buy a bigger wrench for the flat side of the pulley behind the nut.  I had been using channel locks.  So, I will get a new adjustable wrench.

I don't think I could fit my impact wrench into the space in front of the pump/pulley.

I'm off to the tool store.

Thanks for the tips.

'69 280sl
P.O. Box 150128
Austin, TX  78715

[ja17]

Hello Stuart,

Yes, channel locks will not give you the leverage you need. I hate to suggest this, but as last resort, even a pipe wrench on the flats of the pulley can work. But this may leave some ugly jaw marks! I like the impact idea or large adjustable wrench better.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[aomastu]

I would probably need to get the grill off to get the impact in there.  I have a gun type impact wrench.  I do have a regular air wrench which will fit, but I'm not sure my muscle wrench doesn't give more torque.

So far, I like to avoid using the air wrench.  It can round a nut pretty quickly and doesn't give me the control I like on old cars.

'69 280sl
P.O. Box 150128
Austin, TX  78715

[ja17]

Hello Stuart,

Here is a combination with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and 36 mm open end wrench.

Download Attachment: pul1.JPG
81.02 KB

I have spent a lot of money over the years on good name brand tools, (Snap-on, Hazet, Craftsman etc.) However occasionally can't resist the great values and sales from Harbor Freight. This is a good alternative for not spending top dollar on a tool you may only use once or twice. I recently purchased on sale a 18 volt battery 1/2" drive impact gun for $39.00. I figured it could be handy for use removing some things on parts cars out in the south forty. It seems to work quite well, better than expected. It has held up to more than occassional use and will  loosen stubborn wheel lug bolts from parts cars. For kicks I used it on this power steering pulley nut and  without hesitation it quickly removed it without a second wrench to hold the pulley. However, as mentioned you may not have the space to use it in your situation.
Download Attachment: pul2.JPG
70.98 KB


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[George Des]

Stuart,

Yes, I did ruin the pulley but that was not from the heat. The heat burned up the front seal and I had to replace that with a new one. The pulley was ruined after I got the nut off and used a puller to pull the pulley from the shaft--it did not come of as easily as I would have expected. I believe I got a new pulley from Ray Paul but this was several years ago now.

George Des

[Naj ✝︎]

quote:I have spent a lot of money over the years on good name brand tools, (Snap-on, Hazet, Craftsman etc.)

That Stahlwille in the picture is my favourite brand.  :oops:

naj

68 280SL

[Vince Canepa]

There is a groove on the hub of the pulley (where the 36mm flats are).  You can grind a cheap pitman arm or tie rod puller to fit that groove for pulling the pulley off the shaft.  The ones that look like a "U" with inward facing tangs will work nicely.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex