Author Topic: gas linkage rods (Read 15345 times)

Gerhard · « **on:** October 25, 2003, 08:49:29 »

Hi all,

Any tips on replacing the balljoints connecting the gas linkage rods.
I want to replace the balljoints because there is to much clearance on the balljoints. According to the BBB you need some equipment (Gradscheibe).

Gerhard
1965 230SL

ja17 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 26, 2003, 16:00:40 »

Hello Gerhard,
As long as you set up the linkage to specs (see previous linkage posts), you should not need the special linkage sychronizing tools. If the factory linkage stop on the injection pump is disturbed then special tools are needed. The venturi linkage stop should also be checked before beginning.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

isofast · « **Reply #2 on:** October 26, 2003, 17:26:10 »

Do not remove linkage from pump. You do not have to. And you wish to god you never did! In order to replace brass bushings you just remove the two nuts on the stand that is on the driver side of the one pillow block bushing that rarely wears out. You know your tach wire and sometimes ignition wires or brake booster hose is clipped there? The brass bushing on the intake side wears out. Leave the circlip on the end of shaft and after you pry off the two short round rods off the shaft just pull out it towards the driver side (US) just enough to replace the brass bushings. Then you take the jesus clip (circlip) Replace brass bushing with some assembly lube and then shove it back into the pillow boss and re-install the jesus clip, re-hook up the snap fit round ball short rods and your done. Make sense? BTW they call them jesus clips because when you drop them and cant find them that is what you scream.

First Place AACA Show Winner 350SL August 2003
I love low mile car's.
1969 280 4spd

isofast · « **Reply #3 on:** October 26, 2003, 17:27:25 »

Sorry misread your question my mistake

First Place AACA Show Winner 350SL August 2003
I love low mile car's.
1969 280 4spd

W14 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 28, 2003, 23:36:13 »

Hi Gerhard,

The balls and sockets are all replaceable. The sockets come in both LH and RH threads, so have 2 different part numbers. If you are replacing all of them, I think you need 5 RH(regular), and 3 LH (reverse thread). Some of the "balls" are pressed-in (ie: the IP lever), but you can drill it out and install a threaded replacement.

Will W14
1965 230SL 4spd
Victoria,BC

Gerhard · « **Reply #5 on:** January 01, 2004, 09:27:35 »

Finally got time to work on replacing the ballbearings, this is the easy part of the job. The regulating shaft is supported by 2 brass bearings which I want to replace. I have examined the mechanism but can't figure out how to remove the bearings. It looks like some force will be needed but before breaking important (expensive) parts I consult the group. Any hints?
Haynes and BBB don't have much on this.

Gerhard
1965 230SL

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #6 on:** January 01, 2004, 14:55:41 »

Hey Gerhard, what a coincindence. I just did this today! Let me take some photos now that the set-up is at home.

I replaced the 'easy' brass bearing already last year with a new one. This is the one on the side with the two, rather than just one, 'arm' to which linkage rods are connected:
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On my car at least (and I suspect it's the same on all Pagoda's), it is held in place by two circlips that can just be pried off:
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Now the other side - PLEASE NOTE: I PUT THE BEARING HOLDER ON BACKWARDS, IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE ORIENTED IN THE OTHER DIRECTION:
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This is a bit more difficult. The arm at the end of the rod has to come off. To accomplish this, just drive out the steel pin with a suitable 'driver' (I used a small-size bolt) and a hammer:
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Then you can remove the support with the bearing in it. The brass bearings are kept in place with a steel ring that is snapped into the housing. I spent some time with very small screwdrivers, in order to get this ring out so I could remove the bearing. Unsuccesfully so, it's far too difficult. Then it occurred to me: the steel retainer ring can stay in place, the bearing can be forced past it by applying pressure from the other side. The ring widens to let the bearing through. I put in a bit of oil first, to make it all easier. Here's the side that the bearing needs to come out, and where the steel retainer ring is (not visible in the photo):
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The way I applied pressure was putting the whole thing in a vise, with a small socket the size of the bearing diameter on the narrow side, and a larger socket, just a bit larger than the bearing diameter on the wider side. It came out very easily.

When I put the new bearings on the rod, I put some very thick grease on first, to lubricate but also to almost eliminate the very last bit of play that exists even with new bearings.

Hope this is clear,

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

Gerhard · « **Reply #7 on:** January 04, 2004, 09:25:24 »

Hi Cees,

On the "easy" brass bearing I can see the steel retainer spring.
I tried to remove it but did not succeed. Do you have a suggestion how to remove this spring?

Gerhard
1965 230SL

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #8 on:** January 04, 2004, 13:01:25 »

Gerhard - if my memory serves me well, you don't remove the retainer spring (next to impossible with the bearing in place) but, rather, you force the bearing out of the holder, past the retaining spring. So the spring stays in place, and the bearing forces it apart and slides right past it. Apply some oil first to make it all go smoother. It works on the other bearing like that, but it has been some time since I removed the 'easy one'. Try this, and I hope it works the same way.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

Gerhard · « **Reply #9 on:** January 10, 2004, 07:12:07 »

Indeed the retainer spring does not have to be removed. I put the bearing holder in a vice and used a small tire wrench to pull out the regulating shaft with the brass bearing. Not much force is needed so no worries about damaging important parts. I cleaned all parts and today I replaced the ball sockets. After rebuilding and adjusting the regulating linkage the engine runs like a charm. Took it for a spin today (cold but dry weather with the top open, I am still frozen :x )
I just love it when you hit the accelerator pedal and see modern sportcars get smaller in your rearview mirror :twisted: .

Gerhard
1965 230SL

JPMOSE · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2006, 18:32:07 »

The large rod that this thead is referring to caused me troubles yesterday! The brass bushing on the right end popped out of it's socket and the accelerator pedel got stuck! Thank God I was just fooling around in the garage.

I'm going to be lazy here...I know that I need two brass bushings at minimum. Could you guys tell me what I need to order tomorrow to restore this in working order? If I am going to take it apart I might as well replace everything that could fatigue down the road.

Also, I know this was originally cadmium plated but I am going to wait a year or two before I start on that project. The long rod has minor surface rust on it. Does anyone have a good procedure for cleaning this up (and the parts surrounding it) to make it look nice?

Thanks a lot for all your help!

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL

rwmastel · « **Reply #11 on:** February 01, 2006, 21:59:31 »

quote:
Originally posted by JPMOSE

I'm going to be lazy here...I know that I need two brass bushings at minimum. Could you guys tell me what I need to order tomorrow to restore this in working order? If I am going to take it apart I might as well replace everything that could fatigue down the road.

You should be able to replace all the ball/socket joints in the injection linkage. Do you have a parts book with part numbers?

Put the right grease on the new joints. I think some people actually just coat them with ATF?

Guys: What is it that we are to never disconnect from the fuel injection pump when working with the linkage??

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420

hands_aus · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2006, 05:11:06 »

Never disconnect the lever on the side of the injection pump

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

JPMOSE · « **Reply #13 on:** February 02, 2006, 07:10:43 »

Hello,

All the ball joint sockets are fine. I am referring to brass bushings supported by "C" clamps. I believe there are two of them along the shaft (running left to right under the hood -- on top of the valve cover. My mechanic stated that in order to properly replace the bushing on the far right side, one needs to buy the bracket as well.

Rodd...I have TYPE 250SL Catalog "A" 1967 (my car is a very early 1968 [S/N 003010] and should have the next catalog) but it does not list part numbers.

Regarding the linkage that's connected to the IP...I see one should not disconnect it. However, isn't it safe to disconnect the ball socket for lubrication purposes only?

Thanks for all the help!

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #14 on:** February 02, 2006, 15:12:49 »

quote:
Originally posted by JPMOSE

Hello,

All the ball joint sockets are fine. I am referring to brass bushings supported by "C" clamps. I believe there are two of them along the shaft (running left to right under the hood -- on top of the valve cover. My mechanic stated that in order to properly replace the bushing on the far right side, one needs to buy the bracket as well.

Regarding the linkage that's connected to the IP...I see one should not disconnect it. However, isn't it safe to disconnect the ball socket for lubrication purposes only?

J.P. - best review the post that I did January 1 2004 with the photos on tis procedure. You can replace just the brass bearings, and don't need to buy any brackets or anything else.

The rod that connects to the lever on the side of the FI pump can in fact be removed, to lubricate the balljoint, adjust the length, clean it up or whatever else it needs (in fact I had mine disconnected last week when I swapped out my injection pump). It is the lever that is bolted onto the pump itself that should not be tampered with.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

JPMOSE · « **Reply #15 on:** February 02, 2006, 18:33:57 »

Thanks...I ordered the two bushings today. I also ordered another bushing that is on the right side and it is under the manifold I think. Thanks for your help....a Saturday project. JP

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2006, 00:19:24 »

The bushing (a small nylon widget) is probably overlooked on many a car. It's hidden from (top) view underneath the manifold as you describe.
There have been many reports of significant improvement in the running characteristics when the whole linkage system was tightened up (balljoints, bushings) and adjusted properly. Also, when this whole system works with the least resistance, driving the car is more pleasurable in my experience.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

rwmastel · « **Reply #17 on:** February 05, 2006, 10:36:54 »

quote:
Originally posted by JPMOSE

All the ball joint sockets are fine. I am referring to brass bushings supported by "C" clamps.

J.P.
You asked, "If I am going to take it apart I might as well replace everything that could fatigue down the road." The ball/socket joints were my suggestion of things that could fatigue down the road. If they have no play and are well lubricated, then no worries there.

What does the nylon bushing do?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420

JPMOSE · « **Reply #18 on:** February 05, 2006, 15:32:14 »

Rodd,

I just lubricated all the ball joints today and they appear to be in great shape (other than the dull appearance of the metal which I at least refreshened with fine steel wool). I also noticed a ball joint that looks like it hasn't been lubricated since the Beatles broke up...it is on the fire wall and is connected to a brown plastic rectangular box with an electrical hookup. The ball joint itself is connected to a cable that goes down below (perhaps it is connected to the transmission linkage???)

The bushing (nylon?) that I ordered (from Germany) is P/N 180-072-3-50. It happened to be on the same page as the brass bushings described below. I had stated in my prior post that it is underneath the intake manifold. In fact, it is on top. The parts guy suggested it as a wear part. Expensive little bushing...it lists for $26.25 but I paid $18.00.

JP

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #19 on:** February 06, 2006, 15:17:42 »

I'm pretty sure there is one of these nylon bushings at the swivel point below the manifold as well. Best check (and at least lubricate) that one as well.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

hands_aus · « **Reply #20 on:** February 09, 2006, 05:11:03 »

quote:
'I also noticed a ball joint that looks like it hasn't been lubricated since the Beatles broke up...it is on the fire wall and is connected to a brown plastic rectangular box with an electrical hookup. The ball joint itself is connected to a cable that goes down below (perhaps it is connected to the transmission linkage???)

This is the Neutral Safety Switch used to lock out starting the car if in any drive gear.
It also is the reversing lights switch operated by that cable.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

merrill · « **Reply #21 on:** February 17, 2007, 16:26:16 »

so, I replaced the brass bushings on my cross linkage today. thanks to cees for the tour and photos, they really helped.

the whole job probably took me about one hour.

matt

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

J. Huber · « **Reply #22 on:** June 05, 2007, 15:57:03 »

I'm with Matt. Yesterday, I successfully changed my accelerator bushings following Cees' instructions to a tee. Thanks Cees. If I can do it -- just about anyone here can. And this really tightened things up.

James
63 230SL

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Author Topic: gas linkage rods (Read 15345 times)

Gerhard

isofast

isofast

W14

Gerhard

Gerhard

Gerhard