Author Topic: Lead loading front wings  (Read 3861 times)

gnj588d

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Lead loading front wings
« on: April 11, 2007, 14:01:05 »
Hello everyone.Ihad new front wings and inner wings fitted 7 years ago the problem is the lead on the joints has tiny blisters appearing,this is the second time its happened so its getting expensive is this due to flux not being fully removed.The question is is there a substitute for lead work ie modern fillers or is this tabboo     Many thanks Mike Rutledge.Liverpool

mdsalemi

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Re: Lead loading front wings
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2007, 17:36:12 »
Hello Mike,

When my car was restored in 1999-2001, I wanted to take the "high road" and avoid all manner of bondo or plastic body filler.  I told that to my restorer who was skilled with lead and plastic.

What he told me of course, was that he'd do anything I wanted--it was my car and money.  Then came the caveat, which is exactly what you discovered.  The fluxes are acidic as is the metal prep prior to fluxing.  Unless you are ***perfect*** and few people, even the best are, you might likely get the tiny blistering you describe.  This is EXACTLY how he described it to me--what you saw.  When you use lead or body solder cleanliness is of the utmost importantance.

Now, where there is a lot of sheet metal replaced there is always some filler--not to fill in dents (that's the bondo we are all afraid of) but to fill seams and other minor imperfections.  Modern plastic fillers in the hands of a master are great.  Lead is great too, but you run that risk you so painfully discovered.

With all the time and money in a good paint job, and all the post-paint work as well, lead was not chosen.  I have no blistering.  Won't likely get it either.  While the concept of lead sounded good, I'm glad it was not used on my car.  And yes, I believe it is the fluxing causing your issue.  There are also certain places where lead is preferred--there's a ton written about it, do your homework.

The problem with bondo is it is so easy to use, it has been used a substitute for replacing sheet metal.  That's where it gets a bad rap.  But it isn't the plastic that's the problem--it's the cheap owner or the unscrupulous body man trying to cut a corner or fool someone.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

gnj588d

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Re: Lead loading front wings
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2007, 12:18:25 »
Hi Mike thanks for the info it will come in very usefull when i take the car back. Thanks again Mike Rutledge.

waltklatt

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Re: Lead loading front wings
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2007, 12:44:45 »
Mike, Michael,
There is also some factory bondo on the cars.  
The doors most of the time have a skim coat of plastic filler from the factory, evident by the light yellow or light green colored coating after removing the outer layers of paint.  This is noticed on the aluminum parts and sometimes the tin/lead loaded areas.
The factory used solder, in the form of lead sticks where they heat the body steel at the joint and then melt/glide the stick over the surface till enough build is achieved.  Then they filed it down with files and rasps.  Then a skim coat of the filler.
I would not be worried about using the lead filler, but focus more on the paint and prep work.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel, not perfect paint  
« Last Edit: April 16, 2007, 12:45:42 by waltklatt »

tuultyme

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Re: Lead loading front wings
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2007, 14:26:47 »
If a car is missimg the little dimples on the inside front fenders by the head lights; what would be the best method to regenerate them?

Bruce; 268Blaugrun(green) 1970 280SL; IL

waqas

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Re: Lead loading front wings
« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2007, 00:30:37 »
quote:
Originally posted by tuultyme

If a car is missimg the little dimples on the inside front fenders by the head lights; what would be the best method to regenerate them?

Bruce; 268Blaugrun(green) 1970 280SL; IL



I would also like to know this. My pagoda will go in for a re-paint sometime this year, and I'd love to get dimensions/location of the 'notches' so I can reproduce them. Should one simply remove filler until they resurface? (assuming some previous painter had accidentally filled them in)

WAQAS in Austin, Texas
Waqas (Wa-kaas) in Austin, Texas