Author Topic: Time goes by...  (Read 5284 times)

J. Huber

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Time goes by...
« on: June 04, 2007, 21:37:56 »
So, Cees's smoking brakes got me thinking, and an occurance today got me writing. A lot of times, we do things to our cars once and then think we are immuned to the similar problems others may be facing.

Cees in point (sorry)... Case in point #1. Cees's brake lines. I did mine about 5 years ago -- and forgot all about them. However, maybe its time to consider changing them again -- not expensive or difficult and I recall somewhere that 5 years is a good interval.

Case in point #2. About 4 years ago while addressing cold start issues, I pulled my CSV apart and cleaned it all up. No leaks. Never a second thought -- until today! I decided to check it this AM since I am running richer than usual... Blasted thing leaked all over the place! So I pulled it all apart -- found that the small O-ring was broken. Happen to have that from that first round (phew) -- so that was lucky. Cleaned things up again -- and I THINK it has stopped leaking. Tested it twice.

Moral of my story is, the longer you have your car, the more you need to make sure you don't overlook stuff just because you did it once before. Because -- Time goes by.

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

Cees Klumper

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2007, 22:48:51 »
Which brings me to another point, and that is recordkeeping. Being an accountant by trade, I don't keep records on my personal endeavours all that well ("the cobbler's children's feet are always bare") so, unless I force myself to, in another few years I will be wondering what year it was when I last replaced those brake hoses, and may replace them too early or too late. Anyway, to aid in the performance of all of the right checks, here is a listing of regular maintenance items that Joe Alexander once compiled for us, that may be handy to keep your basic records:

"Most elements of a major tune-up / service are listed in the original owner's service booklet which came with the car's books when new. This "E" service at 30,000 mile intervals is a tune-up and service procedure. The "EZ" service at 60,000 miles is a major tune-up and service. A customer once asked me what the "E" stood for in "E service"? I replied. "E stands for the condition of your wallet when finished, Empty!" The fifty or sixty procedures involved in the service along with the parts can be somewhat costly. It is no wonder that many "E services were never performed. Naturally performing part or all of the work yourself can be very worthwhile in savings and knowledge gained. Proposal: there is a logical sequence of procedures which may vary, from person to person. This is only a starting point which can be altered or added to as needed. Once we finalize the list we can describe the factory procedure, list the specifications, list the parts needed, list the tools needed, and give personal insight and experiences. Many from the group can research their own literature and contribute. A summary can be written and placed in the file. Feel free to make suggestions and relate your own experiences on the subjects. This will take some time and work. Many listers can contribute and help research in their own literature. Factory manuals are very informative however the factory training literature and service bulletins are hard to find and full of good information also. Many aftermarket manuals offer condensed information that is described in simpler terms. We should focus on procedures done with common inexpensive equipment and tools available to most of the list. Much of the information is already available in the archives and just needs to be organized into a usable format. The "EZ" Service / major tune-up:
1.   record important car numbers Vin.#, motor#, distributor#, transmission #, differential ratio.
2.   check and clean all fuses
3.   check charging system output
4.   change main fuel filter
5.   check pressure and output of the electric fuel pump
6.   test drive and warm up engine to full operating temperature
7.   record any running problems noticed during test drive
8.   remove and examine spark plugs
9.   check the engine compression and record
10.   remove valve cover and re-torque cylinder head
11.   examine timing chain, tensioner and chain guides
12.   record camshaft ID number
13.   meter spark plug wires and ends
14.   identify the ignition as transistorized or non transistorized, verify correct coil with correct ballast resistors and
15.   examine distributor and test vacuum advance and centrifugal advance springs lube as specified verify correct distributor
16.   replace ignition condenser
17.   replace ignition contacts (points)
18.   replace ignition rotor
19.   replace the distributor cap
20.   check the ignition voltage
21.   adjust valves on a cold engine
22.   examine valve seals
23.   install spark plugs and re-install valve cover with new gasket if needed
24.   replace air filter
25.   set static ignition timing
26.   set dwell
27.   set ignition timing with strobe timing light
28.   check emission changeover timing relays (USA versions)
29.   check and adjust all engine linkages
30.   check vacuums throttle control (USA versions)
31.   check constant idle solenoid
32.   replace injection pump air filter
33.   check cold start valve on injection pump
34.   check starting solenoid on the intake manifold
35.   Set idle
36.   set injection pump idle mixture
37.   replace power steering filter
38.   jack up or lift car to drain fluids
39.   replace oil, filter, check all seals
40.   replace coolant
41.   check all hoses
42.   drain transmission and replace fluid. On automatics drain the torque converter also and replace the transmission filter and pan gasket
43.   replace rear differential fluid and check rear axle boot
44.   replace all engine v belts
45.   check front suspension for wear
46.   check drive shaft
47.   lubricate chassis
48.   note any fluid leaks
49.   adjust clutch
50.   check for any loose bolts
51.   check brake pads, rotors change brake fluid
52.   replenish front wheel bearing grease
53.   rotate tires
54.   check exhaust system
55.   check battery
56.   check windshield washer sys."

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
« Last Edit: June 04, 2007, 22:49:53 by cees klumper »
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

dendrinos

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2007, 04:44:42 »
Cees, I think this is an excellent idea. Perhaps it should be made into a sticky and the discussion retitled to better reflect the nature of the information contained within.

Pete

280 Sl
Michigan, USA

J. Huber

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2007, 19:04:10 »
Well, since I started this -- I can hijack it right? OK. Looking over the list -- I have a couple questions...

1. #52. Replenishing front wheel bearing grease. Is this something that can be done without major surgery. I recall the rear bearing is a much bigger job. But I'd like to try the fronts. Any tips.

2. #51. "...change brake fluid" If my pads are ok -- does it make sense to change hoses and/or change brake fluid? How often is correct for the fluid?

3. #32. "replace IP air filter" What is this? Do I have one (early 230SL). Is this a filter that I (me, JH) can change?

Thanks.

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

Cees Klumper

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2007, 21:52:12 »
Hello James - on your no. 2 question, I understand that once every two years is a good frequency to change the brake fluid. The fluid picks up moisture and this affects the seals and rubber components, so including the brake hoses. As to no. 3, this refers to the fuel injection pump filter that sits on the side of the WRD/thermostat - which can be difficult to take off of the pump, but it should be do-able for the home mechanic.

quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber


2. #51. "...change brake fluid" If my pads are ok -- does it make sense to change hoses and/or change brake fluid? How often is correct for the fluid?

3. #32. "replace IP air filter" What is this? Do I have one (early 230SL). Is this a filter that I (me, JH) can change?



Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

jameshoward

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2007, 04:26:31 »
James,

Further to Cees points, your (self-hijacking) #1: yes. Very easy. There is a section in the BBB about it, but also in the Haynes manual. There are several links on the subject on the site. Even the rear wheel bearing isn't hard. If you search under 'real axle tour for posts by ja17 you will find some great information and a 'how to do it.' Did both recently and it was satisfying without being difficult. (I'm no mechanic).

As for #2, changing the brake fluid sort of depends on the climate, noting Cees' point about it being hydroscopic. As for the flex hoses, if you can bend them quite hard without seeing cracks, they're fine. Again, I've just replaced mine as I was replacing all the brake lines, but on further inspection, the hoses didn't really need to be replaced.

#3: am about to do this. I have the same car as you, (1966). The cleaner sits on the back end of the pump. It is fitted using a nut and is about the size of the oil filler cap on the pump. It unscrews using a spanner. I cannot imagine that it could be hard - famous last words. I will just make sure I spray the joint with some penetrating oil to make sure it comes off easily, as it looks like its been there a while. The replacement is not expensive.

JH
James Howard
1966 LHD 230SL

hands_aus

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2007, 06:07:29 »
The Inj pump air filter requires a 'thin' 22mm spanner.



Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best

J. Huber

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2007, 09:04:36 »
J. Howard, did you actually replace your old bearings with new or did you regrease the existing ones? If you have time, I'd love an off-line email with some play-by-play. And keep us posted on IP filter change...


James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

waqas

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2007, 09:14:43 »
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber

J. Howard, did you actually replace your old bearings with new or did you regrease the existing ones? If you have time, I'd love an off-line email with some play-by-play. And keep us posted on IP filter change...


James
63 230SL



Please include me on this email exchange (or better yet, please make it online). James and I are both investigating unidentified high-pitched squeals, and re-greasing the bearings sounds like a way to possibly eliminate them from the equation.

Regarding the brake hoses, I was in the midst of removing something from an old 108 parts car I have, and the brake hoses looked fine on the outside, and they even flexed all the way back (180 degrees) without cracking. The hose end was corroded, and I had to snip it off. I found the hose completely swollen on the inside!

As James and Cees have both mentioned-- I plan to just keep track of when I replace the flex hoses, and change them after some interval (5 years is not a bad interval I suppose).

WAQAS in Austin, Texas
« Last Edit: June 06, 2007, 09:35:45 by waqas »
Waqas (Wa-kaas) in Austin, Texas

Halftrack

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2007, 23:31:57 »
Bob, do you (or anyone else) have a source for the injection air filter needed for a 127 or 129 engine?  I have picked up a couple of incorrectly advertised 280SL filters on eBay over the years that are slightly too large in diameter to fit the space and have a different diameter on the screw threads as well.
TIA,
Mark DeBacker

quote:
Originally posted by hands_aus

The Inj pump air filter requires a 'thin' 22mm spanner.



Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto


hands_aus

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2007, 05:27:10 »
quote:
Originally posted by Halftrack

Bob, do you (or anyone else) have a source for the injection air filter needed for a 127 or 129 engine?  I have picked up a couple of incorrectly advertised 280SL filters on eBay over the years that are slightly too large in diameter to fit the space and have a different diameter on the screw threads as well.
TIA,
Mark DeBacker

quote:
Originally posted by hands_aus

The Inj pump air filter requires a 'thin' 22mm spanner.



Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto




Hey Mark,
Try Caliber Motors in Anaheim. They are MB wholesalers http://www.calibermotors.com/
Other suppliers like SLS Germany would sell them too. http://213.239.220.84/start/index.phtml

Also Budds Benz or Millers



Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967, early 250 SL, auto
« Last Edit: December 14, 2007, 13:19:46 by hands_aus »
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best

Halftrack

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Re: Time goes by...
« Reply #11 on: June 08, 2007, 08:39:02 »
Thanks Bob,
SLS is new to me and has several items I have been seeking for some time!

Mark DeBacker
California Wine Country
'64 230SL (German car w/pre-import 250 engine conversion)


Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
[/quote]
[/quote]
Hey Mark,
Try Caliber Motors in Anaheim. They are MB wholesalers http://www.calibermotors.com/
Other suppliers like SLS Germany would sell them too. http://213.239.220.84/start/index.phtml

Also Budds Benz or Millers



Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
[/quote]