Distributor housing removal

[glennard]

On a 127 engine-the distributor housing is held on by 6(?) cap screws and there is a M22 nut(bolt) in the center opposite the auxillary shaft.  Does this nut(?) fit on the end of the aux shaft and must be removed to get the housing off?  Anybody done this?  I've put a good many lb-ft on it - no budge!

[Benz Dr.]

Leave it on. You only need to remove the smaller allen screws. There are two small pins that go through the housing and into the front of the block. Sometimes they can make it hard to remove the housing.

Dan Caron's
 SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
 slbarn.mbz.org
  1 877 661 6061

[glennard]

Dan, Got the housing off about 1/8", then the aux shaft bound up(stopped turning).  The M22 nut must be on the end of the shaft, holding the on??

quote:Originally posted by Benz Dr.

Leave it on. You only need to remove the smaller allen screws. There are two small pins that go through the housing and into the front of the block. Sometimes they can make it hard to remove the housing.

Dan Caron's
 SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
 slbarn.mbz.org
  1 877 661 6061

[merrill]

if the distributor is still installed, wiggle the rotor while pulling the housing toward you.

the worm geas (s) provide resistance, just be patient, mine was the same way and eventually it wiggled off.

also, if you clean up the motor before replacing the housing, make sure not to paint the pins or the holes in the distro housing.

the fit is very tight and any paint will prevent you from re installling

when re installing the rotor will turn when the gears engage, you will have to set up the distro housing to your liking,  the number one mark may not be in the same position

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

[glennard]

Matt, Is the M22 nut in the center of the Distributor Housing screwed on to the aux shaft?  If so, it has to come off to get the housing off?  The bevel(worm) gear(which engages the bevel gear on the aux shaft) at the bottom of the distributor hole(where the coil spring fits) is frozen up.  18 years of setting!!!!

quote:Originally posted by merrill

if the distributor is still installed, wiggle the rotor while pulling the housing toward you.

the worm geas (s) provide resistance, just be patient, mine was the same way and eventually it wiggled off.

also, if you clean up the motor before replacing the housing, make sure not to paint the pins or the holes in the distro housing.

the fit is very tight and any paint will prevent you from re installling

when re installing the rotor will turn when the gears engage, you will have to set up the distro housing to your liking,  the number one mark may not be in the same position

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

[Vince Canepa]

You should be able to answer your own question.  The nut does not turn in normal service.  The shaft does.  How then could the nut be screwed onto the shaft?

First of all, if the distributor is not out, pull it now.  If I remember correctly, there is a washer under the nut that holds the idler gear in place on the aux shaft.  The distributor drive gear could be against the nut.  After that apply wedges next to the locating pins.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[glennard]

Vince, Thanx- the light goes on!  With the frozen stuff and MB engineering-thought anything was possible!  What does the M22 nut/bolt do?  Thrust bearing? Positioner?  Any ideas on freeing up the crank and pistons?  

quote:Originally posted by Vince Canepa

You should be able to answer your own question.  The nut does not turn in normal service.  The shaft does.  How then could the nut be screwed onto the shaft?

First of all, if the distributor is not out, pull it now.  If I remember correctly, there is a washer under the nut that holds the idler gear in place on the aux shaft.  The distributor drive gear could be against the nut.  After that apply wedges next to the locating pins.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[Vince Canepa]

It has been a while, but I believe the shaft must be drawn out from the rear (after the injection pump is removed).  The big plug allows you to remove the nut holding the idler (timing) gear in place on the aux (intermediate) shaft so the shaft can be pushed rearward.  I can't remember doing it that way and I imagine there is great risk of dropping (at a minimum) a nut, lockwasher and flat washer into the timing case.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex