Oil pump/tach drive removal problem

[glennard]

Hi, Continuation of unfreezing 127 engine.  How does the tach/oil pump drive come out?  I've removed the lock bolt.  Should the drive just lift out?  Caked up oil frozen the drive in?  Any ideas/advice?

[66andBlue]

Hi Glenn,
take a look at the pictures that Joe A. posted here (go to page 2!):
http://sl113.com/forums/index.php?topic=3097
Perhaps these and his instructions might help.
Good luck!

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[glennard]

Alfred, After taking the bolt with the spigot out, I should be able lift the whole thing out?  Prying up on the M22 plug to help?  Engine is frozen, so PB Blaster is trying to loosen the tach/oil pump shaft.

quote:Originally posted by 66andBlue

Hi Glenn,
take a look at the pictures that Joe A. posted here (go to page 2!):
http://sl113.com/forums/index.php?topic=3097
Perhaps these and his instructions might help.
Good luck!

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[66andBlue]

If I remember correctly you first remove the 10mm set screw and unscrew the 22mm fitting completely. Did you get that out?  
Then you should be able to coax the thrust piece (or bushing) upward and out. It sits in snug. Perhaps you can use some kind of a small hook and wiggle and pull on the holes in the bushing if it is stuck.
Not quite sure what you mean with spigot, and what is stuck on your engine, the bushing or the gear shaft?
Once the bushing is removed you should have no trouble removing the timing gear shaft.

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[glennard]

Alfred, The spigot is the unthreaded 6 or so mm on the end of the set screw that fits in the hole in the bushing-and holds the bushing in.  I've got the M22 plug and the set screw out-but the bushing is still stuck.  More 'Deep Creep' and PB Blastyer!

[enochbell]

Glennard,

From Longtooth's post on the subject:

"Removal:
1. Back off screw plug [that's the 22mm screw on top] about 2 turns, unscrew hexagon screw with spigot [that's the 10 mm screw on the side], and by inserting a screwdriver between the screw plug [22 mm plug] and the cover disk [cover disk is first item directly beneith the screw plug], and push out the pressure piece upward. [pressure piece is the the large cylinderically thick bronze/aluminum piece, referred to in previous posts on this thread as "bushing" ]"

He describes the way to essentially prise the bushing up by using the screw plug, still attached but loosened, and a screwdriver. Sounds a little risky for you with everything stuck.  Sort of like the advice my father gave me once, after running a "yellow" traffic light, which was: "Son, I don't normally drive like this...and neither should you".

Best,
g


'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[66andBlue]

Glenn and 'g',
I am not so sure whether Longtooth was looking at the correct drive shaft when he copied the description from the BBB. The rpm counter drive for the 230SL/250SL is shown in Fig. 06-1/1 [Job No. 06-1].
His description refers to Fig. 18-6/12 and appears to be correct for the Diesel models 190Dc and 200D. Since these don't have the long shaft to drive the rpm counter it looks like that you can access the pressure piece from the top using the alternative removal procedure. I can't see how that would work on a 230SL - but then what do I know!

Glenn I guess you'll have to wait until the Blaster does its job.  Or maybe Joe A. has another solution up his sleeves :?:

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic