bleeding brakes

[71 pagoda]

I just finished a brake job and the pedel is low.  I want to re bleed the brakes and was wondering in what order I should bleed each wheel. Is there something else I should be looking at like a pedel height adjustment?  The height was fine before I worked on the car.
Thanks.
Larry
71 280sl

[Ben]

You should start at the wheel furthest from the brake master cylinder and obviously ensure you have the level topped up.

I've tried the various self bleeders but the best method IMO is to have an assistant pump and then hold down whilst you then undo the bleed screw etc.....

Keep an eye on the level whilst carrying out this procedure !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor

[Cees Klumper]

There is a concentric bolt that connects the pedal end to the rod that goes into the brake booster. This bolt may have some influence on pedal height, I am not sure. Then there is the plastic stop-cover on the brake light switch, that oftentimes goes missing (due to age it dries out and cracks, falls off etc). It influences pedal height somewhat I believe.
Having said all that, it would seem to me that, if the pedal height was allright before you worked on the brakes, it should be in the same position now. Is the pedal feel spongier than before? This should be cured by the bleeding process, but I would not expect the pedal position to be affected by air in the lines?


Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[71 pagoda]

I re-blead the brakes and I still have the same spongey low pedel feeling. Im wondering if I screwed somthing up when I changed the reservior. Should I try a new master cylinder?
Larry

[W14]

Hi Larry,

I had the same problem after replacing all 4 brakes.  The spongyness was caused by a tiny pinhole in the metal brake line that runs toward the rear axle, near the fuel tank.  The leak was small enough that it only sprayed a very fine mist upwards, and did not leave a puddle on the floor.

Will W14
1965 230SL 4spd
Victoria,BC