Eliminating rattles

[hands_aus]

Hey group,

I am going over my car trying to eliminate the rattles and knocks in an attempt to identify if there are real problems with the suspension rubber.

My first effort was to tighten the window glass, screws etc in the LHS door.
I am working my around the car looking at the engine bay touching things that look loose, and securing them.
The same internally, the ashtray lid used to bounce.
Cables under the dash have been secured.
I have replaced or tightened screws in the under dash covers. I also installed some aluminium covered 30mm black foam sheet behind the covers for noise and heat reduction.
The carpet back on the seats were loose because of no screws.
I have inserted rubber between the boot lid skin and the boot lid frame.
The tool box has been removed.
The spare tyre rim was loose on the stand so I used a piece of rubber under the rim. It doesn't rattle now.

Now to my next area of concern.

The internal lining on the RHS rear mud guard needs a retaining clip of some sort. I looked and there isn't anywhere for a clip to be attached.

What do you folk have to keep the lining in place?

Also was there a lining for the LHS?

Have I missed any areas of potential rattles?

Sorry to be so chatty.

Bob(Brisbane,Australia)

[Tom]

Bob,

You may want to check your radiator to ensure it is tight.  That was a source of a rattle for me.

Best,

Tom

[n/a]

Bob,
I had a rattle in the chrome cover fits over the hinges for the seatback; it did not fit securely over the hinge. A little crimping and the pieces are secure.
The radios plastic faceplate (Becker Europa) is glued to the chrome surround. Mine had come unglued and was rattling.
I need to tighten the window guide screws, but have just had the door panels off twice in the last month and am not yet motivated to remove them again. I was in the door to replace a small rubber pin that fits into one of the articulated pieces of the window regulator. I believe it serves to keep this piece from rattling against a fixed part of the regulator. It seemed to correct most of the rattling.
However, when I close the drivers door there is a sort of tinny rattle that should not be present. I don't believe that this is the window guide. The noise is intermittant, but is present whether the window is up or down.
Stan

Regards,
Stan

[hands_aus]

Hey Tom and Stan,
Thanks for you replies. I have checked most things. I think the radiator is solid but I have not checked the seat chrome covers.
Tomorrow!
My tool box with loose spanners etc was the major source of rattles. I will wrap the tools in an old bath towel and see if that eliminates the noise.
One part that is loose is the little chrome piece that covers the join of the two front bumber bar sides. I will have a look at that tomorrow too. I figure there must be a clamp of some sort to keep it solid.
Did either of you have anything to say about the trunk/boot lining and keeping it in place?
again thanks

Bob(Brisbane,Australia)

[Albert-230SL]

Hi Bob,

I had a very bad rattle from the engine bay, that seemed to come from the heating system. At the end, it was the metal pipe wich goes from the intake manifold to the fuel injection pump, between the back of the engine and the firewall. This pipe was touching a metallic point under the firewall, and it made a bad metallic rattle under acceleration, or driving over bumpers.

Another source of rattles could be the front licence plate (when loose bolts), and the two parts of black grille, behind the front chrome grille. If these black grilles have loose bolts (or not all the bolts), they could rattle.

If you have suspension "knocks" driving over bumps, maybe there is some silent block in bad condition. If you jack up the front of the car, you could easily see the condition of the two big rubber silent blocks that fasten the front axle. If you see broken rubber and the inside metalic part of these silent blocks when the front axle goes down, you need to change them (this seems to be quite usual in W113).

Just previous experiences!

Best regards,





Albert de la Torre Chavalera
Barcelona (Catalunya/Spain)
Feb.'64 230 SL Euro Manual

[George Davis]

Bob, do you mean the black, foam-backed trim piece inside the rear fender?  In my car it appears to simply be held in by tension against the lip of the trunk (boot) lid opening, no clips that I know of.

Yes, there is a liner on the LHS.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[Klaus]

Make sure the exhaust hangers (donuts) are stiff and not worn out/lengthened. In my case, a loose donut results in the rear muffler banging against the right rear fender.
Klaus

[n/a]

Bob,
The other posts reminded me that I also had a missing bolt on the heat shield between the floorpan and exhaust pipes. Check the heat shield.
The knock that is coming from the front suspension is probably a bad subframe mount(s). I was pleasantly surprised at what a difference a new set of subframe mounts made.
I have used wiring wraps to secure wires and cables under/inside the dash. I next need to fish out the 9mm socket that I dropped inside the dash while removing the wood trim.
Good luck,


Regards,
Stan

[hands_aus]

Hey Group,
Wow, So many little things to check.

Stan and Klaus, I am taking the car to the local mechanic so he can put it on his whole car lifter. While he is checking my sub frame mounts, I will have a good look for anything loose like the heat shield and the exhaust hangers.

I fixed the loose chrome strip on the LHS door.. one rivet was loose one rivet was missing.

Albert, that is good advice about the black grill bars, I will check them. Thanks

George D, yep they are the ones, I only have the RHS one. These pieces are made from a cardboard covered with vinyl. Would it be possible for you to post a pic of it with a ruler to show basic dimensions and proportions? I might try to make one.


Bob(Brisbane,Australia)

[Cees Klumper]

I had the Blaupunkt radio produce a rattle when going over rough surface or speed bumps. I suspended it better. I also had the chrome ring for the horn rattle until I fixed that. Now I only have one very minor rattle left - somewhere at the right rear in the passenger compartment, it seems to be coming from underneath the soft-top boot lid.

white 1969 280 SL

[hands_aus]

Hey Cees,
These rattles are enough to keep me busy for hours.
A couple of the black grill bars ARE loose. These things are supposed to be crimped in place. I will put some black silicone on them.
The ASHTRAY lid bounces. I am thinking of adding a small dob of black silicone or a small self stick rubber stopper (maybe from something electrical), to the underside of the lid. I will look in a craft shop.
I thought about installing a magnet to hold it closed but the space is very limited.



Bob(Brisbane,Australia)

[Cees Klumper]

There's a metal spring that should keep the lid down, maybe it is just bent out of place and can be fixed. New ashtrays are available in either blue or black (and maybe some other colors as well) for around $50 here in the Netherlands. AND maybe a sedan or other period MB model used the same ashtray?

white 1969 280 SL

[jeffc280sl]

Speaking of noise, I just replaced the rear axle to frame bushing.  It's located in the trunk under a small plastic cover.  Previously I would hear a clunking sound when I shifted into reverse.  Also there was a rattle in the trunk when going over small bumps in the road.  These sounds have been eliminated.  It's a very worthwhile project to do.  The rubber part of the bushing had deteriorated to the point where there was metal to metal chafing.  This caused the rattle.  The clunking sound was from the rear axle shifting in the bushing when going into reverse.

Jeff 1970 280SL 4 speed

[n/a]

Jeff,
How difficult a job was replacement of the rear axle mount?
I don't know that I need to replace mine, but it seems like it is a worthwhile project even if it is not as bad as you described yours.

Regards,
Stan

[jeffc280sl]

Hi Stan,

It was not difficult to change the axle to frame rubber mount.  You need to raise both sides of the axle until they are about level.  Place a jack under the differential and raise it up slightly.  Just enough to take the axle weight off the mounting plate.  Unscrew the center hex head bolt and clamping plate and lower the differential jack.  Notice that the clamping plate has a notch which aligns with the axle.  I ran into a little trouble here.  I had to unscrew the other bolts and pry the mounting plate from the axle bracket.  It wasn't too difficult.  Installation is the reverse.  Some difficulty here as well.  The axle shifted slightly and was not centered in the hole.  I mounted the rubber mount and clamping plate and then had to slowly lower the differential jack while gently nudging the mount over into the center of the hole in the trunk.

Hope this helps.  If you have the Haynes manual look at figure 8.16 and 8.17 on page 138 and 139.  It gives you a good idea of what your up against.

Good luck,

Jeff

[rwmastel]

Is this a bad rear axle mount in the trunk?

Download Attachment: Diff Mount 1.jpg
67.96 KB
Download Attachment: Diff Mount 2.jpg
58.75 KB

Thanks,

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[George Davis]

Rodd,

nice photos, bad mount.  A new one has about 1/4 inch of rubber showing (if I remember right) below the disk, no metal-to-metal contact.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[rwmastel]

That figures.  I got a quote for a new one - $56.00 + shipping.  Does that sound reasonable?

I'll have to go back and read the posts and read the manuals to see if I have any questions about replacement procedure.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[graphic66]

My mystery rattle was a noise that sounded like it was coming from the right side chrome fresh air vent in the dash when you hit bumps while driving. I removed the entire interior to redo everything and also put in a new firewall pad in the engine bay and that was when I found the rattle, it was the bottom mount on the radiator expansion tank [230SL]. It had broken away from the tank and rattled, the sound travelled into the car and out of the dash. I resoldered the lower mount and the rattle was gone.

[J. Huber]

Hey Rodd. I may be right behind you. After seeing your pictures of the mount, I ran out and checked mine. Not quite metal to metal but getting there. (No noise yet either -- but I'll be listening)

The price I have found is about $45 (U.S.) You might want to try the usual 113 suppliers for best price.

And post lots of info on the surgery...I need pictures!

James
63 230SL

[jeffc280sl]

Rodd and James,

Rodd's pictures indicate a partially failed bushing.  Just checked my new one and the rear axle to frame bushing installed has about an 1/8 inch space between the mounting plate and top washer.  When I closely examined the top plate I noticed that there were 4 very neat gashes at each of the mounting bolts.  The top plate had shifted so much due to bushing failure that it had banged into each of the bolt heads.  This would be another way to tell it has definitely failed.

Let me know if you have any questions on the installation.  I think the Benz Dr. did a great writeup on this item.

Jeff
1970 280SL 4 speed