1963 230SL Axle Repair Question

[motoguzzi]

Hello guys.  Working on my wife’s ’63 230SL.  
Have diagnosed a knocking in the right rear as the axle bearing (also, when you turn the axle, there is definitely a drag of some kind for about 40 degrees of the rotation).  I have read all of the prior postings on the matter but wanted to make sure I don’t do any damage.

Car is up, on stands.  Passenger rear wheel and brake hardware have been removed (e-brake cable and mounting bracket remain in place).  All of the nuts on the axle retaining plate have been removed.  Will be taking a gentle slide-hammer to it next.  Correct?

I mention the e-brake part as one posting suggested removing the e-brake cable bracket but it does not appear to be in the way.

Thanks in advance for any confirmation/go-ahead or “wait, wait!”s

Chris

[DavidBrough]

Hi Chris,

My experience is with a 280 axle so I can’t comment on the e brake issue but if it looks like it’s not in the way it should be OK. The slide hammer should free the bearing from the axle tube and once clear, remove the slide hammer and proceed by hand. The right hand half shaft has a small circlip on the diff end and the next bit is to make sure you don’t break it and jamb the axle. With the bearing free hold the half shaft level with the tube and pull gently until you feel resistance and the shaft won’t come out any further. Hold the pressure and just give a sharp pull and it will come out.

Good luck


David Brough 1969 280SL Auto with A/C & 3.46 Axle

[motoguzzi]

Excellent - thanks very much.  Will do that this morning and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again.

Chris

[motoguzzi]

OK - not so fast huh... Very, very likely that I am doing something wrong here.

I hit it with a slide hammer, nothing.

I removed the ring (which I thought was holding the bearing ans seal in place - does not appear to be so.  This appears to be holding the rear brake plate in place).

I have attached pictures to this message in the hoipe that someone will say "That looks just like mine.  Here's how you do it..."

The axle is hanging down.  Do I need to raise it with a jack in order to remove the axle?

Thanks very much guys.  It feel like I might be close to success and, as such, will try not to press my luck in asking for too much help.

Repeated thanks,

Chris




Download Attachment: Axle2.jpg
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Download Attachment: Axle3.jpg
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[mbzse]

quote:Originally posted by motoguzzi

.../...I have attached pictures to this message in the hope that someone will say ".../...Here's how you do it..."

You can find a nice step-by-step illustrated guide for this workshop task here:
http://www.pagodentreff.de/artikel/wechselnradlager.html

The page needs registration, in order to access it. You can use a web tool for translation
.

[DavidBrough]

Hi Chris,

Looking at your axle2 photo, the brake back plate comes off with the half shaft and bearing so the mounting studs need to be knocked out and anything that won’t come away with it needs to be removed first. Unfortunately mine has disc brakes so I can’t be more specific but if you remove everything holding the back plate on you should be OK to remove the half shaft with your slide hammer. Jacking up the axle tube so it is more level will also help but don’t take the weight off your axle stands which should be under the rear jacking points.

David Brough 1969 280 SL Auto with A/C & 3.46 Axle

[motoguzzi]

David - thanks very much.  With the help of the link provided by Hans (and a German to English translation site) I have the backing plate totally loose and you were right, I had to remove a bracket that I beleive is unique to the drom brakes.  I have been pretty aggressive with the slidehammer but need to build a better bar to go across the centerline of the axle.  Will keep you posted.

Thanks again,

Chris

[motoguzzi]

Hans - thank you for the e-mail.  Wow - this was my first time seeing a barrel bearing.  I thought the bearing was bad until I read your message.

Thanks for the angle iron tip; worked like a charm.

Well - it looks like the bearing is fine.  Putting the axle almost all the way in, without the bearing being seated and I am still encountering resistance for about 40 degrees of the rotation.  I assume the drag is also the cause for the knocking.  I am going to replace the bearing since I am so far into the job.

Any ideas on the resistance/knock?  Perhaps the other bearing, perhaps in the differential?  Must be one or the other.  It certianly did feel and sound as though it was coming from the passenger side of the car though.  At this point, I figure I need to drop the whole rear end.

Thanks everyone.

Chris

[ja17]

Hello Chris,


Remove the drain plug, examine all the teeth on the ring gear and pinion. Hopefully none are damaged. Use a flashlight.

Also, I once had one of the many ring gear holding bolts come loose, made a knocking noise. Eventually got caught and was shoved through the diff casting!

[motoguzzi]

Thank you for the tip Joe.  I am working on one of my cars tomorrow (an old Studebaker) but back on my wife's SL Thursday.  Will let you know if I see any ring/pinion damage.

Repeated thanks,

Chris