Fuel pump cover paint

[dseretakis]

While tackling my never wanting to run '71 280SL, I have been in the process of refurbishing parts which have come off in the process.  The current project is the large metal can-shaped cover which covers the electric fuel pump.  It was heavily rusted and pitted.  I've sanded off most of the rust and have made about 15 applications of naval jelly to dissolve the rust from the pits.  It is almost there.  I'm wondering what the correct paint would be for this part.  I'm thinking either rust oleum semi gloss black or Eastwood's underhood black.  Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions.  Also, which might be more fuel resistant?
Dimitri
'71 280SL

[john.mancini]

I have an original MB cover and it's semigloss black.
John

[mdsalemi]

John is correct.  Painters will call this chassis black.

But Dimitri, unless you live in the hinterlands or place little value on your time (I judge not here on either) with all that effort of Naval Jelly (not cheap and 15 coats is time consuming)this kind of thing speaks to "powder coating" (fused polyester).  It isn't terrifically expensive and my guess is you could have it done for about $40--and that includes all the rust removal etc. and what they'll give you back is a polyester-finished, beautiful fuel cover that you simply can't get at home with a finish considerably harder and longer lasting than any kind of paint you can find.

There are powder coaters all over the place (like chrome platers), you have to look.  Here's one I have used for things such as my wheels, battery hold down, horns, etc.  My restorer used another local one for all the suspension and chassis pieces.

http://www.exoticcoatings.com/

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America

[dseretakis]

Michael,
I had not thought of the powdercoating option which is clearly the best.  
I don't however think that it is cost effective to powdercoat just one part.  As long as you all think that semi-gloss black is correct, and that the subtleties of the shade of black are probably not all that important I'll probably use POR-15 followed by semi-gloss rust oleum.
I know that POR-15 is expensive, but I already have a bunch.
Dimitri

[waqas]

Dimitri,

When I refinished my fuel-pump can a few years back, I too used POR-15 and rustoleum semi-gloss black.

However, in hindsight I probably should have had it powder-coated (as well as the other parts I refinished) .  It would have saved all that time with the angle-grinder / wire-brush/ etc, etc.

I think either way works just fine.

Waqas in Austin, Texas

[mdsalemi]

quote:Originally posted by dseretakis

Michael,
I had not thought of the powdercoating option which is clearly the best.  
I don't however think that it is cost effective to powdercoat just one part.  As long as you all think that semi-gloss black is correct, and that the subtleties of the shade of black are probably not all that important I'll probably use POR-15 followed by semi-gloss rust oleum.
I know that POR-15 is expensive, but I already have a bunch.
Dimitri

Dimitri,

Like custom chrome plating, each part is different.  So, there is no "value" in bringing 10 parts to get powder coated versus 1.  Each part takes x minutes of prep and x minutes of work.  10 parts=10 times that.  See?

Trust me on this, I've had it done many many times.  One wheel was $70.  4 wheels were $280.  Simple math.

The exception to this is production powder coating, where you might be making 10,000 parts.  Production powder coaters rarely do this one off stuff.

If this POR15 is like the other kinds of rust-paints out there, you actually need the rust for it to make the chemical bond they talk about.  Read about it carefully before use.

Keep powder coat in mind for next time.  I don't ever paint anything anymore.  It's all powder coated.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America

[wwheeler]

If you have a lot of refinishing work ahead of you in the future, you might consider buying a DIY powder coat set up. They are not that expensive and it is easy to learn. The variety of colors available is staggering. The two companies that I know of that sell units are Eastwood Co.(Eastwoodco.com) and Caswell(caswellplating). I personally prefer the caswell unit. Look in to it!

Wallace Wheeler
Texas

[mdsalemi]

quote:Originally posted by wwheeler

If you have a lot of refinishing work ahead of you in the future, you might consider buying a DIY powder coat set up. They are not that expensive and it is easy to learn. The variety of colors available is staggering. The two companies that I know of that sell units are Eastwood Co.(Eastwoodco.com) and Caswell(caswellplating). I personally prefer the caswell unit. Look in to it!

Wallace Wheeler
Texas

...don't forget:

1) the powder coat OVEN you'll need to do it right (or your neighbor's junk oven that was on the curb last night )

2)  the sand blasting cabinet you need to properly prep the parts.

3)  proper compressor for both.

Mr. Wheeler is absolutely correct when he says if you have a lot to do!and that so many colors are available.  There's also high-temp coatings, hammertone, veined colors, neons, etc.

But BEFORE anyone goes and invests in such a kit (starts at $100; goes up, that's just for the gun, not the oven or any prep stuff), might be wise to read these faq's of pro versus home kits:

http://www.exoticcoatings.com/faqs.html

For what my opinion is worth, this is the kind of thing that takes a lot of equipment, and the correct equipment, to do right.  Personally I shy away from anything measured in "kilo volts".[:0]

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America

[wwheeler]

Michael,
I was HOPING that someone would look into the total amount of equipment needed before diving in, but didn't want to take up space on the forum. True, the process is not for everyone. However, if you are doing a lot of refinishing, enjoy doing the restoration yourself and the pride that comes along with that, then it may be for you.

I would agree that my finish is probably not as good as a professional and their equipment is better. But for the majority of people, it is more than good enough. I have done many parts and have tried to remove the finish on some as a test. Believe me, the adhesion is very durable with the DIY kits. I think some of what was stated by the link was meant discourage and to drum up business for the refinisher.

I was mearly trying to inform of another option, not convince someone to go that way.  



Wallace Wheeler
Texas

[dseretakis]

POR-15 adheres to rusted surfaces as well as to properly treated metal.  "Pickling" with and acid etch such as naval jelly or similar compound will do the job.  POR-15 actually has there own product to treat the metal before application.  My experience with POR-15, which I've been using for over 10 years, is that it works very well over surfaces de-rusted with naval jelly.  When applied over a completely derusted surface, the rust does not come back.  When applied over rusted metal, the rust will eventually continue to spread but at a much slower rate.

As far as powdercoating goes, the finish is nice but can definitely be distinguished from a painted surface.  From an originality standpoint where does powdercoating stand?  Would you lose points for a powdercoated surface?

Dimitri
'71 280SL

[dseretakis]

Thinking more about it, a powdercoated surface is probably the most fuel resistant which would in fact make it ideal for this application.
Dimitri

[wwheeler]

What process you chose depends on your personal goals for your car.

Powder coating always has more orange peel in the finish and has a thicker appearance than paint. It is tougher and probably more fuel resistant than paint. The powder coated finish can be very close to the original sheen but not exactly. Powder coating looks good but not exactly like paint.

For me personaly, I am striking a balance between originality and durability. For anything under the car, I will powder coat if possible for resistance to rock chips etc. Keep in mind, anything that is to be powder coated must be able to withstand 400F. That is the curing temperature for the powder. That can be a big obstacle. Just some more thoughts.

Wallace Wheeler
Texas