Pre Trip Punch List Requested...

[wmoore]

All,

I need some advice.  I have had a ’67 250 (auto) at my southern residence for about three weeks.  It is currently in Hilton Head South Carolina.  The car is new to me, and I have been trying to give it a shake down before I drive it to my Ohio home next week.  Ultimately, the car will live with me in Ohio where I have much better facilities to look after it.

I am in need of a punch list of things to check/service before attempting a 700 mile trip with a relatively unknown machine.  I am thinking of items specific to the 113 as I have already reviewed the basics.

In addition, I will be having the local MB dealer perform a fluid change before I go.  I am not aware of the previous owners selection, but I use Mobile 1 synthetic religiously.   Occasionally older engines “spring leaks”  when introduced to thinner synthetic.  Any thoughts around this?  The local MB dealer has ordered the filter element.  I am assuming that the filter will come with all appropriate gaskets?

Finally, does anybody have any experience with a qualified independent that has experience with 113’s in the Hilton Head, Bluffton, or Savannah areas?

Thanks in advance.

-WAM

[glennard]

WAM, A few things- 1. Make sure the 'filter Life Saver' gasket is in the oil filter housing.  Much docs on this site.  It is a rubber cylinder about five Life Savers high and 5/8 or 3/4 inch in dia.  Fits on the nipple in the center drop.  If it isn't there, oil bypasses the filter.  Missing on many MBs 'rescues' of the 50s, 60s, and 70s.  2. Why change oil type now?  3. Valves adjusted?

[wmoore]

quote:Originally posted by glennard

WAM, A few things- 1. Make sure the 'filter Life Saver' gasket is in the oil filter housing.  Much docs on this site.  It is a rubber cylinder about five Life Savers high and 5/8 or 3/4 inch in dia.  Fits on the nipple in the center drop.  If it isn't there, oil bypasses the filter.  Missing on many MBs 'rescues' of the 50s, 60s, and 70s.  2. Why change oil type now?  3. Valves adjusted?

Thanks for the tip on the "filter life saver".  I will verify that it is in place when the work is completed.  I have not dealt with this dealer before, so I am not looking forward to the negotiations around letting me back on the shop floor, letting me observe under the car, lifting the car my way not there way, proper use of a torque wrench, etc etc etc.

As for the motivation to change the oil type now, I suppose it is two fold.  I have a fair amount of German steel in the garage, although most is more modern stuff, and I buy Mobile 1 Synthetic in quantity.  I run it in everything from my air compressor to the lawn mower, to all of my cars.

As for the valves, agreed. That is among the reasons I was soliciting for a knowledgeable independent in the area.  I simply don’t have faith that a modern MB dealer is equipped the really deal with that type of task.

[Richard Madison]

It seems that original seals are prone to some leakage from synthetic oil. If the seals have been changed from original, there should not be a problem.

Richard M, NYC

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by wmoore

I am in need of a punch list of things to check/service before attempting a 700 mile trip with a relatively unknown machine.  I am thinking of items specific to the 113 as I have already reviewed the basics.

Oh boy, I expect you'll get quite a few varied responses on this one.  When are you going?

Here's some suggestions off the top of my head:

0.  Consider shipping the car.  You don't know the weak points, you'll probably get stranded.

1.  Unless your local MB dealer has a tech on staff who specializes in 40 year old cars, you should find a local independent who is a specialist in 40 year old Mercedes-Benzes.  Anyone have a suggestion for him?

2.  Because you have no history of the car, consider getting ALL the scheduled services listed in the owners manual performed.  This would be expensive, but it would ensure everything is in good shape.

3.  Other than service items, there are many things you could check:
- Fuel - Check the fuel system in detail.  Rust in tank?  Fuel filter in tank clear?  Fuel filter in fuel pump clear?  Main fuel filter in engine bay clear?  Proper fuel flow rate in return line at fuel tank (testing whole fuel circuit)?
- Compression - Check the compression in each cylinder.  Re-tourqe head bolts, perform a valve adjustment, and check compression again.
- Ignition - Check for play in the distributor.  Check timing and dwell per shop manual.  Make sure your coil, ballast resistors, etc. are all properly matched.  Sometimes these are not correct.  Test the resistance of the spark plug wires/ends.  They should be consistent.  Take an extra set of spark plugs with you.
- Brakes -
- Steering -
- Suspension -
- Exhaust -
- Lights -
The list goes on.....

4.  If you are a do-it-yourself person, take a complete set of tools in the car.  Otherwise, a cell phone and a credit card for the tow truck should be enough.

It will be nice having another Pagoda in Ohio.  I'm in the Columbus area and there are a couple other Group members around here.  Maybe we could have a welcoming party for you on your way up north!

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by wmoore

Finally, does anybody have any experience with a qualified independent that has experience with 113’s in the Hilton Head, Bluffton, or Savannah areas?

Do these help?

http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?t=12970
http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?t=24224

[wmoore]

All,

Thanks for the feedback thus far.  I will elaborate on a few of the questions.

Item 1.  Shipping the car:  
I am sure I am mentally defective, but….   I am the guy who will not let a valet within visual distance of any of my cars.   Any and every decision to leave the house involves a complex calculation of the weather, the potential parking conditions, as well as a route evaluation that takes into account the likelihood of a random stone chip or pothole strikes.  Even for daily drivers, winter and summer.  In Ohio there is a difference.

The biggest martial strife I have ever faced is the constant battle to get my wife to put the hood of her car up after it is driven.   This is of course to let the heat out in order to prevent undue stress on the hood finish as well help limit heat soak for components under the hood.  Turns out, my wife doesn’t view that as a standard procedure when returning from the mall…. Go figure…

Surrendering the car to a shipper would clearly represent a mental burden I may not be able to endure.

Item 3:  Breaks, Steering, Suspension etc…
   The car was actually subject to a relatively complete restoration 7 years ago.  Since that time it has covered roughly 12,000 mi.  The only components that were not entirely refreshed were the engine and trans.  I believe they were deemed “good enough”.    The engine and trans likely have 125,000, although it clearly could be 225,000.   The general condition would tend to favor the lower number.  I believe some engine work must have been done however.  There is evidence of a non MB sealant between the fuel injection pump and the engine.  Oil level in the pump is good.  

Looks like the distributer cap is not matched to the distributer itself.  While it is the proper diameter, it doesn’t “key” in.  i.e.  It can be rotated a few degrees in either direction with some flex in the retaining clips.  I’ll work on that.

I can’t verify the correctness of the distributor itself.  I can’t spot any markings.  They may be on the front where I can’t see them.  Play feels “ok”, but I have not critically measured it.  Timing and dwell will be looked at after I sort out the cap.  BTW  - I cannot locate the second lubrication point on it.  I was able to add oil to the wick under the rotor. Wires look correct, but I will needs to verify with a VOM.

I am relatively confident in all lighting, breaking, etc…   The car has new tires, and suspension bushing and so forth are in good shape.  I have put about 200 miles on since I got the car and have not found anything distressing.  The idle is a bit uneven and weak while in gear and on a fully worm engine.   I am checking vacuum lines and linkage, but again... I think I need to start with the proper cap, rotor and timing.

Q:  When is the trip?
   AT the moment, I am planning on traveling Thursday and Friday of next week.   May 22-23.  Ultimately the Car will live in Akron Ohio.  I am looking forward to meeting the other Ohio cars when it gets there.

Thanks again for the suggestions…  Keep them coming.

-WAM



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[Naj ✝︎]

Here's an important thread about oil filter seals which should be checked/replaced. Some of them are not part of the normal filter kit:

http://index.php?topic=2589

Hope this helps.

naj

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by wmoore

I am in need of a punch list of things to check/service before attempting a 700 mile trip with a relatively unknown machine.

quote:The car was actually subject to a relatively complete restoration 7 years ago. Since that time it has covered roughly 12,000 mi. The only components that were not entirely refreshed were the engine and trans. I believe they were deemed “good enough”.

quote:I am relatively confident in all lighting, breaking, etc…   The car has new tires, and suspension bushing and so forth are in good shape.

Oh, OK.  So it's not an unknown car in the sense that there is no knowledge of its history and no paperwork of service/repair/restore work.  My initial impression was that you just got the car from eBay or something and didn't know anything about it at all.  At least you have some info, which helps you a lot.

quote:Looks like the distributer cap is not matched to the distributer itself.  While it is the proper diameter, it doesn’t “key” in.  i.e.  It can be rotated a few degrees in either direction with some flex in the retaining clips.  I’ll work on that.

I can’t verify the correctness of the distributor itself.  I can’t spot any markings.  They may be on the front where I can’t see them.  Play feels “ok”, but I have not critically measured it.  Timing and dwell will be looked at after I sort out the cap.  BTW  - I cannot locate the second lubrication point on it.  I was able to add oil to the wick under the rotor. Wires look correct, but I will needs to verify with a VOM.

Here's some reading material for you:
http://www.sl113.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Electrical.IgnitionSystem

[mdsalemi]

Bill,

I won't add to anyone's punchlist here about what to check on your car, but will make 2 suggestions--

1)  Don't even THINK about taking a trip like this w/o a cell phone.

2)  Ensure you have the AAA+ or Premier or similar membership with towing benefits--significant.

As they say--been there, done that...

[wmoore]

quote:Originally posted by mdsalemi

Bill,

I won't add to anyone's punchlist here about what to check on your car, but will make 2 suggestions--

1)  Don't even THINK about taking a trip like this w/o a cell phone.

2)  Ensure you have the AAA+ or Premier or similar membership with towing benefits--significant.

As they say--been there, done that...

Roger that...

Cell phone.. Check
American Express.. Check
Towing coverage.. Check
Tool kit.. Check
Spare fluids.. Check
Address of group members along the way.. Check

Best of all.. Chase vehicle.

-WAM

[wmoore]

quote:Originally posted by naj

Here's an important thread about oil filter seals which should be checked/replaced. Some of them are not part of the normal filter kit:

http://index.php?topic=2589

Hope this helps.

naj

Terrific info.   I have ordered a full complement of gaskets and seals including the "life saver" tube.  Thanks!

-WAM