Replacing the rear springs - not that difficult!

[Cees Klumper]

This evening I decided to tackle an issue that has been starting me in the face for years: the right rear spring was not seated properly in the bottom plate, and the left rear spring had its rubber pads mounted in reverse (meaning the top rubber was on the bottom and vice-versa). Not good obviously, but I dreaded the job.
It turned out not so bad - it took a lot of time, but I was able to correct both ailments in about 3 hours' time; I should mention I had Monroe spring compressors without which I would not have been able to do it. Plus there is a sequence one has to go through in compressing and loosening the springs, by using a hydraulic jack in creative ways, in order to be able to get the springs out or turn them as needed. One tip: be very careful not to let the axle drop so low as to damage the brake hose(s). And I had to undo the top nut on the shock absorbers as well, and getting them back in place takes some finessing.
The point of all of this (which probably does not make very much sense - until you have at it ourself) being that if you would want to change the rear springs, it is a job that can be done fairly easily by yourself so long as you have a set of good spring compressors (about $60 at an auto supplies store near you) and are willing to fidget around with the springs, raising and lowering the axle at various stages of the process.
Actually if you do plan to replace the springs, replacing the rear brake hoses (not a bad idea if you don't know how old they actually are, since they constrict with age, unnoticeable from the outside - and they are quite inexpensive items) at the same time would be a good idea, since not having to worry about these hoses would make the spring job that much easier.

[jameshoward]

Cees,

I had to remove my rear springs a month or so ago to change all the bushes on the training arms etc. I think I put it in a post somewhere. The first time I did this, about 18 months ago, I used compressors also. This time, we followed the procedure in the Haynes manual and it took about 20 minutes to get the springs out. Using a trolley jack (it needs to be able to move slightly on the floor) I undid the 3 bolts that hold the metal plate at the forward end of the training arm. With the car on axel stands and a jack forward on the trailing arm, I then loosened the large bolt that hold the arm onto the chassis at the forward point. It is then simply a case of slowly lowering the jack under control and then with all the tension off the spring the spring just falls out. It's such a quick process and provided one is careful with the trolley jack when lowering it, it's a total breeze.

Of course taking the springs out using this method does, I think, run the risk of moving the position of the rear axel. I have a problem that relates to this issue that I will put in another post shortly as I need advice. For this reason alone the Haynes book method of removing the rear spring, whilst very simple, may cause some additional problems of its own.

I really need my spring compressors to get the complete git of a rear compensating spring out, but I just can get them, or any others I've tried, in there. It has defeated me. For now.

Here's a photo of some of the old bushes alongside the new ones. Without doubt the hardest job, as I put in another post, was getting the large 32mm nuts off the rear of the trailing arms. But that's another story.

Download Attachment: DSCN1439.JPG
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James

[Cees Klumper]

Hi James - good point; actually I know about the option of dropping the fronts of the trailing arms; I did that once year ago, however had a very tough time getting them back in position, and that was with a helping friend. So I opted out on that one last night.

[mbzse]

quote:Originally posted by cees klumper
../..the option of dropping the fronts of the trailing arms; I did that once year ago, however had a very tough time getting them back in position

In order to perform this task of re-fitting the trailing arms, one has good help by using a special device: It is a cone with a threaded hole (M14x1,5) in its base. This is put onto the M14 stud bolt pointing down from the chassis floor, and will guide the rubber ring at the front of the trailing arm right into place!

Cone is then unscrewed, and the plate with its large nut is mounted to fixate the trailing arm. You can see this illustrated in the M-B Workshop manual (BBB) section 35-3.

Where do you get such a nice cone then? Hmm, well, unfortunately, one has to make them oneself, or have them made at some shop local to you.
As far as I know, anyway... anyone on this Forum know of a source?

.

[jameshoward]

Hans,

An alternative to the cone is a friend with strong arms. We did my car without any special parts, but the trolley jack is vital as one needs to manipulate the arms in order to get them to fit.

That said, I currently have a misaligned rear axle. The cone wouldn't have helped cure that problem I think.

JH