Author Topic: 1970 280SL No Start on its own  (Read 5234 times)

sagaali

  • Guest
1970 280SL No Start on its own
« on: August 14, 2008, 13:01:37 »
I just bought a 1970 280sl.  Its has been sitting for about 2 or 3 years untouched.  Supposly the car ran when it was parked 3 years ago. I had it towed home and I charged the battery but fresh gas in the tank,  turn the key the car cranks but no start.  I sprayed alittle starter fluid and the car started right up! but did not stay running.  I tryed a few times would only start if I sprayed started fluid then run for a few seconds and stall.  Now I not sure what the next step should be.  I don't hear any noise coming from the fuel pump (not sure if they would make any noise?)  I but power directly to the fuel pump and still nothening.  Should I change the pump?

glennard

  • Guest
Re: 1970 280SL No Start on its own
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2008, 14:38:19 »
Pump hums when running.  Take out-loosen hoses, wires, brackets, etc.-.  Pour gasoline solvent in inlet and outlet, shake, let set over nite.  Hopefully this will free the impellor.

Jonny B

  • Pagoda SL Board
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, San Marcos
  • Posts: 4198
Re: 1970 280SL No Start on its own
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2008, 09:58:19 »
Welcome to the group.

There is a lot of information on what to do with a car that has been idle for a long while. Use the search function and have fun!
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

mdsalemi

  • Pagoda SL Board
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, NC, Davidson
  • Posts: 7056
Re: 1970 280SL No Start on its own
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2008, 11:12:13 »
Saagali,

Let me focus your searching...first understand these cars complex fuel injection systems do NOT like to sit idle for extended periods.

You should probably remove the fuel tank sender unit and kind of inspect the inside of the tank.  Rust can be trouble.

Check all your fuel lines from tank to pump--hardened?  Maybe they need replacement.

The fuel pump need to provide both volume and pressure; measured at the fuel injection pump; these are critical to good running.

Blow out the steel lines from pump to FI pump; check their integrity.

You need to see if the FI pump is working or gummed up; often times, if you get the cold start working, and fuel delivery verified, a problem in the pump might be indicated by the car stalling after the cold start kicks off.

You need to see if your cold start injector is working.

You need to check the fuel injectors themselves, too.

This is not a "how to" but mere mention of the kinds of things you'll need to search further on.  Hopefully I should not have to say (but I will) be very careful working around fuel--particularly since pumps are involved.

We have vendors on our list who can renew or exchange the FI pump for you.  Cold starts can often be renewed.  Sometimes the injectors can be cleaned.  Some people claim good luck with old gas tanks in a "renew" process; others replace them.  The fuel pumps can be rebuilt.

Hopefully with some of the information above you have some additional keywords for the kinds of searches you'll need to do.

Best of luck!
« Last Edit: August 15, 2008, 11:23:43 by mdsalemi »
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

glennard

  • Guest
Re: 1970 280SL No Start on its own
« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2008, 17:20:18 »
Pump running?

sagaali

  • Guest
Re: 1970 280SL No Start on its own
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2008, 17:32:51 »
Thanks everyone turns out the fuel pump was just stuck I let it sit over night and tapped it a few times in the morning and it came back to life

glennard

  • Guest
Re: 1970 280SL No Start on its own
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2008, 18:00:15 »
The impellor is about 2" in diameter.  If it sets in one place to long, the gas gets gummy and the impellor sticks to the bottom housing.