Author Topic: water pump question  (Read 7234 times)

deke54

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water pump question
« on: October 16, 2008, 11:15:03 »
I'm in the midst of a longblock rebuild of my 68 280sl. The tech has quoted a price of $408 for a water pump. I've found pumps from Millers and other sources for much less, anywhere from $70 - $150.  The tech says these are aftermarket pumps and of inferior quality and he doesn't recommend using them.  My question is whether there is a significant difference justifying what seems like a very high price for a water pump.  Thanks.

J. Huber

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Re: water pump question
« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2008, 11:29:19 »
As far as 230SLs go -- the correct waterpump is around 95 dollars. Add in the various gaskets, a thermostat, vent line & new hoses -- the total for parts is still under 150. Labor is another story. Is he including labor in his quote?
James
63 230SL

deke54

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Re: water pump question
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2008, 11:41:52 »
No, it's just the part including gasket.

J. Huber

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Re: water pump question
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2008, 12:17:11 »
Well, I'd wait to hear from some 280SL owners but I doubt the quality of the pumps K & K or Miller's sell are inferior by much.
James
63 230SL

Naj ✝︎

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Re: water pump question
« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2008, 12:27:44 »
Genuine remanufactured pumps were available from MB as exchange units cheaper than replacement ones (when I needed one about 4 years ago).
If you're lucky, there will be a new one in the box. Gasket and 5 loctite thread sealant coated bolts included!

naj
« Last Edit: October 18, 2008, 17:25:23 by naj »
68 280SL

deke54

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Re: water pump question
« Reply #5 on: October 16, 2008, 12:54:48 »
Thanks for the input.  I don't mind paying a somewhat inflated price for a recommended part, but this seems over the top.  I'm going to go with either the reman. pump from Mercedes or the aftermarket from Miller.

Benz Dr.

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Re: water pump question
« Reply #6 on: October 16, 2008, 16:32:59 »
Lock tight coated screws? I hope not!  NEVER use Locktight on something like that. I use anti-sieze because the screws sit in the coolant chamber in some places.
 Antifreeze, aluminium and steel make for an unfriendly partnership. The last thing I want in that area is something that's going to make it HARDER to get apart down the road.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

ja17

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Re: water pump question
« Reply #7 on: October 16, 2008, 21:44:30 »
Hello,

I have also used Mercedes rebuilt water pumps for around $100.00 with a discount, and have had no problems.  

The fact is Mercedes-Benz does not make their own water pumps. Some aftermarket suppliers have quality after market parts and may even carry the original manufacturer's pump.  Most reputable suppliers will not sell junk. Consider the options. The Mercedes rebuild is the best value for OEM quality. If the rebuild was not available I would consider an after-market pump from a reputable  source for a savings of over $300.00.

The best way to make any water pump last longer is change coolant on a regular basis and do not leave the car inactive for long periods of time.

I like to use some permatex #2 or gasket shellac on the water pump screws to seal the threads.
« Last Edit: October 16, 2008, 21:47:32 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

graphic66

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Re: water pump question
« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2008, 09:35:34 »
I like to add Prestone water pump lube and anti rust to my coolant. I have done this for year snow and I haven't replaced a pump on any of my vehicles since using it. http://www.prestone.com/products/coolingSystemTreatments.php#coolingSystemTreatments2