injection pump removal

[Joe]

I have all the visible hoses, pipes and wires removed. Took off the two nuts at the front, and the bolt that holds the bracket to the engine at the rear. I can wiggle the pump, but it doesn't want to come back. Is there a connection that is hidden that I've missed? Thanks,
Joe

[ja17]

Hello Joe,
There are no mystery connections. It should just pull off. Make sure the oil line is unhooked. and the external support. Wiggle harder!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Ricardo]

I remember having to pry the two apart working a small screwdriver in until I could get a bigger one etc.At some point it just popped apart. Dan mentioned that he puts a little oil on the coupling when reinstalling. Perhaps the coupling gets dryed out,inside and doesn't want to slide.
Ricardo

[Cees Klumper]

The ones I pulled off so far (5 or so) went rather easily - the connection was invariably pretty oily. The oil line that is sort of hidden from view between the FI pump and the block as Joe points out is something to make sure is loose. And the splined connection is a bit long + close, so pulling it back in a straight line may help.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[n/a]

Hey Joe

I recently removed/installed my injection pump ('65 230SL) and there were 3 nuts to be removed from the front mounting flange and one at the rear of the pump.  Looking at your post, you may have missed one.

quote:Originally posted by Joe

I have all the visible hoses, pipes and wires removed. Took off the two nuts at the front, and the bolt that holds the bracket to the engine at the rear. I can wiggle the pump, but it doesn't want to come back. Is there a connection that is hidden that I've missed? Thanks,
Joe

Tony M
1965 230SL (Auto)

[ja17]

Good point RV,
We missed that clue. Yes there are three nuts holding the pump to the block.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Tom]

Joe,

You probably read the manual on this procedure but just in case...don't forget to set the engine timing to 20 degrees *after* TDC and keep that position until the pump is back on the car.

Best,

Tom

[Joe]

Yeah, I found the third nut on the bottom. Was about to go at it with a sledge and chisel. It came right off. Felt like a fool when I saw the nut. I had been scanning the bottom of the pump from a point behind the front wheel, and it can't be seen from there. When I laid in front of the wheel, there it was, plain as day.
So, when I put it back on, I align the marks on the IP and set the engine to 20 degrees atc and just put it in. Is that correct?
What is involved in cleaning the injectors on the intake ports? Can this be done with a can of carb cleaner and air pressure?
Thanks for the help.
Joe
1965 Euro 4-speed

[Cees Klumper]

Apparently the injectors can be cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner - like the jewellers use. They also can be tested for leakage, proper pressure and spray pattern.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Tom]

Joe,

Your engine should be set at 20 ATDC when you pulled the pump off.  From your post, it sounds like you plan to reset the engine timing to 20 ATDC before you put the pump back on.  If you did not set the engine timing at 20 ATDC before pulling the pump off and want to do it now before it goes back on, I would seek additional comments from the technical experts on the site as to how this may or may not impact coordination of timing between the pump and engine.

Also, it is easy to get 180 degrees off when setting the engine timing.  Ensure that the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, the distributor notch and rotor as well as the cam notch all indicate 20 after top dead center.

Best,

Tom

[ja17]

Hello Joe and Tom,
It is not that difficult to set the engine to the correct position even if the pump is out. set the engine to 20 deg ATDC next take the oil filler cap off and make sure that the cam lobes over #1 cylinder are upward (10 o'clock and 2 o'clock). This is an indication that the engine is on the compression stroke. If these lobes are pointing down then continue rotating the engine until 20 deg ATDC comes up again. Always turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation.


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Benz Dr.]

I use oil on the coupler because I wash everything in solvent while I'm working on them. The oil is needed s it won't bind going on.
It must be noted that it's 20 degrees ADTC on number one piston. In other words the two valves should be closed and the piston will be on the power stroke. In this position the intake valve will be just begining to open on number six cylinder.
Dabn c

Daniel G Caron