Replacing my engine .... Celebration Time!

[Cees Klumper]

Thanks Joseph. I did check my subframe mounts (they're in good shape) and I replaced the engine mounts last year. The kingpins are in good shape.

This evening I transferred the electronic ignition set-up from my old distributor to my rebuilt one (I got the parts from Dan Caron, Benz Barn in Canada) and here's a picture of the completed assembly:

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Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[ja17]

I made a simple engine pre-oiler to be used prior to first start on a rebuilt engine. I used a verticle timing gear from a Mercedes carbureted engine, a spare 1/2" drive socket and hand crank.
 
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You must unhook the tack cable and remove the fitting and the aluminum/bronze sleeve, (see previous posts).

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I welded the socket to the top of the verticle timing gear and ground off all the teeth on the gear itself. You may also have to grind a little off one side of the socket a little, so as to clear the bulge in the head.

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The tool is attached to the hand crank and inserted in the block where it quickly engages the oil pump. rotating the tool by hand, quickly fills the oil filter unit and the oil cooler. The entire engine is  primed with oil! oil pressure will register on your oil gauge.

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This is probably not neccessary if the correct engine assembly compound is used.

I have a plentiful supply of these old used timing gears if anyone needs to make one of these tools.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Cees Klumper]

I just painted my exhaust manifolds, after thoroughly cleaning them with wire brushes. I used 650-degree Celsius (1,200-degree Fahrenheit) spray paint. I used a dark grey color. Here's how they came out:

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I hope this paint lasts. The rusty look of the unfinished cast iron always looked out of place to me.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Cees Klumper]

Last Friday I refitted the rebuilt engine in the engine bay. I ran into a couple of problems:

- first, the crankshaft pully that drives the power steering pump (the front one) turned out to be around 5 mm shorter on the new engine than it was on my old one. Then, when I went to swap them, I discovered that the longer original one was cracked, so I had to get another one that was the correct length.

- dropping in the engine, by myself, was not too difficult. The trick is to hang the engine from its engine mounts, then keeping the whole assembly balanced by attaching a strap to the rear of the transmission. After getting the engine above the engine bay, gradually lengthening the strap to the transmission will tilt the engine backwards enough to be able to lower and move the engine back, into the right position. In the final "dropping in" stage, I supported the transmission with a jack from underneath. Dropped in the engine mounting bolts, and voila.

- well .... so I thought. After I got the engine nicely in place, I realized that I had forgotten to refit the speedometer cable into its slot in the transmission housing. What a tight spot. I did manage to get it in without having to lift the engine back out, but that was not easy.

- then, when I got ready to pack up for the day, I had to move the car a few inches to be able to open the garage door. I shifted the transmission into neutral, only to find it did not shift through the gate pattern as normal. I am hoping this is because I have not yet fitted the transmission mounting and the heavy plate that it sits on yet, so the angle at which the gear lever is now attached to the transmission is different from the proper one. This evening I will do that, and hopefully the normal shift pattern will be restored.

I hooked up the intake and exhaust manifolds, the fuel lines, and some other externals. I figure I have two more days of tinkering before I can press the "start" button. In the meantime, I am getting my new stainless exhaust (after struggling with the old system for four years, never quite getting it to fit tight at the manifolds, a properly fitted exhaust system will be music to my ears).

Today I am also giving the radiator my final try, resoldering the drain plug assembly that I inadvertenty forced out of the radiator body, and then it's waiting for the next two days of free time to wrap the job up. I have not yet decided whether I will use synthetic oil from the start (as suggested by Nathan Keith), or whether I should start with conventional oil then change it to synthetic after the first 500 or so miles (in order to properly seat the rings as recommended by others). Any advice?

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Cees Klumper]

Today I attempted to solder the drain plug fitting back into the radiator body. The first attempt failed - the solder would not adhere to either the fitting nor to the body. It turned out I was using the wrong soldering fluid: today went like a breeze. I soldered it in place, then checked for leaks and here's the result:
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and here after the obligatory coat of black paint:
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I hope after final installation it's leak-proof. One down, only few more to go.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Cees Klumper]

Today I bought all the fluids that need to go back into the engine, cooling system and automatic transmission. For oil, I decided to start with two charges of semi-synthetic oil, followed by pure synthetic after the initial 550 miles of running-in. For the first two oil filters, I ordered the special running-in filters that Naj suggested. They should be coming in tomorrow. I installed and hooked up many of the wires, tubes, hoses, the distributor, alternator, fuel lines from the FI pump to the injectors, brake booster vacuum hose, power steering pump hoses, fuel linkages, throttle body, cold start valve, constant speed solenoid, battery tray, battery and cables. The only things left at this point are:
- install the new stainless exhaust system
- install and hook up the radiator and oil cooler
- put in the oil and fill the coolant system - as suggested by Dan Caron, I will start with plain water, so that, if there are any leaks, it's just water coming out instead of coolant. When I am sure the system is free of leaks, I will replace the water with coolant.

During all of the work, I am keeping my hands clean by wearing disposable latex (surgical) gloves. I get these in bulk at the local auto parts store. Worth the small investment for sure.

I expect that the next time I have free time to spend (next week Wednesday) I can start it up for the first time! I think I will videotape this moment for posterity ...

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Cees Klumper]

Today I received the Mercedes 'running-in' filters I ordered from Van Dijk.

Part number A 000 184 42 25.

On the filter it says: "only for initial run" and "nur fur Erstbetrieb"

I imagine these filters are 'finer' than the regular ones. I will be using the two filters for the first 550 miles.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Cees Klumper]

Made some more progress today and last Sunday.
The radiator / oil cooler is back in, and all of the hoses are attached. I did about half of the new stainless steel exhaust system, starting at the front (manifolds). The system fits together quite snug and is a much better fit to the chassis than the old system.
Then yesterday my new Euro camshaft arrived in the mail from Niemoller in Germany. Less than $400. I will break in the engine first, then swap out the camshaft; I feel better breaking in the new engine with the less-aggressive cam. Plus I just want to get the car going again!! rather than taking part of the engine back apart!
I think in another couple of evenings in the garage, I will be able to report on the resuccitation process....

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[George Davis]

Cees,

I respectfully suggest you do the camshaft swap now, before going any further.  It'll never be easier than now, while the bonnet is off and the radiator can be re-removed if necessary.

Did you get new cam followers?  What is the prevailing wisdom on using used followers with a new cam?  With lifters, it's a big no-no to use used lifters with a new cam.

I'm glad it's going well, hope I'm not being too annoying!

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[Cees Klumper]

Thanks George - I will follow your advice and install the new camshaft. I did not get new followers, I'm curious about what others think about this?

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Douglas]

Cees, which camshaft did you go with & why Niemoller?

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #018260

[ja17]

Hello Cees,
Yes it is best to use new rocker arms with that new cam. The old rocker arms will work fine however the wear lines in your old rocker arms will soon transfere to your new cam!


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Cees Klumper]

Thanks Joe, I will get new rocker arms ('followers'). They're about $20 a piece so that's $240 for the 12. I will save the old ones and the old cam - maybe someone can use a good set of used rockers + camshaft some day.

Doug: I got the European spec cam which provides for more HP than the standard US cam (the same type fitted to sedan engines that were/are oftentimes used to replace worn-out original Pagoda engines). According to most sources, the difference is about 10 HP (DIN): the European 280 SL (M130) engines, without emission controls and with the hotter cam, are listed at 170 HP (DIN, which I believe is around 190 HP SAE). The US engines at 155 HP (DIN, or around 170 SAE).

I went with Niemoller in Germany because their price (Euro 370) is a lot less than Van Dijk's (Euro 506) plus they have rebuild sets for my starter motor and alternator that Van Dijk don't list.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[George Des]

Cees--Just got back here in D.C. from Brussels. You've guys got the same terrible weather there that we have here so it was no relief being over there. Took a ride over to Aachen last Monday and the roads were slick as could be. I did see a green Pagoda in Brussels Wednesday night while sipping on a Jupiler at the Metropole Hotel in Brussels. While I did not do a detailed inspection on it, it looked like it had the earlier version spare tire well so it had to be a 230 even though it sported the newere style hub caps. Had the US version headlights, so this was obviously an update by a U.S. owner somewhere along the line.
Regarding your rocker arm replacements: while you aer at it it might be a good idea to replace the ball towers and perhaps the mating part on the head. When I did my rebuild, I was shocked at how worn the balls had become. My fear if you don't change these out with the new rockers is that you will have considerable play and attendant wear on the two parts in the early running of the engine. I think going new with the cam shaft and the rockers is a good idea but again you may want to go the extra mile on this and make sure that all the mating parts are new as well--I think this is "cheap" insurance in the long run.

George Des

[Tom]

Cees:

A couple of thoughts:

When you have the radiator out for repair, consider having it recored with an extra row.  I think these radiators are 3 row units and an extra row will help keep things cool in stop and go traffic.  Might want to check and see if you can have it recored in aluminum to save some weight.

Just curious, what signs suggest that your radiator had been replaced?

Best,

Tom


____________________________________

1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic
1971 280sl Tobacco Brown
1994 E320 Cabriolet, Smoke Silver
1999 E320 Wagon 4 matic, Brilliant Silver
____________________________________

[Cees Klumper]

Hi Tom - I had the radiator out to remove the engine, and forced the drain plug out with its assembly, but soldered all of that back in place some weeks ago and just put the whole assembly back in this week. I have not yet tested (again) whether it is closed but feel pretty confident. My car did not overheat ever, the needle would only move up a bit in the hottest weather combined with stop-and-go, so I did not consider changing or adding to it.
The reason I think it was replaced at some point, is that it looks quite clean. But after looking closer, it seems like it was repaired (or recored?) and then painted, so it may in fact be the original one, I don't know for sure. I DO know that I was quite amazed at the cost of a new one!

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Benz Dr.]

Cees,
I'm  sure you'd be wasting a lot of time doing everything twice. I'd use the new cam wih all the other new parts.
If you put it together right you have little to worry about. The euro cam opens a few degrees sooner than the US cam and stays open longer before closing. This extra duration is where you can make a bit more mid range and top end power.
Get your manual out and look up how to do a valve clearance test. You need at least .9 mm (.035'')at 5 degrees ATDC or the valve could hit a piston in a worse case situation ( still unlikely though)
As long as you have it in time it will be OK.

During cam shaft replacement you will have to remove all the head bolts and there's a small chance you could have re sealing problems ( also small but then why bother with chance)

regards,
Dan c
SL Barn

Daniel G Caron

[Cees Klumper]

Today I did all of the final work to get my rebuilt engine (Joe Alexander and I rebuilt it in Ohio last May/June, then I had it shipped to The Netherlands last August and, since September, I have been working in my spare time to swap it out with my old engine - the car has sat in the garage since September 20 waiting patiently for me to perform the major surgery).
So ... today saw me:
- finishing up fitting the new stainless exhaust system
- putting in the air filter canister and assembly
- putting in all of the fluids (I used semi-synthetic oil and a special running-in filter. I plan to change the oil and filter after about 50 miles and then again after another 500 miles. Then I will revert to 100% synthetic oil)
- setting the initial timing (cylinder one cam lobes up, and then lining up the no. 1 spark plug timing mark on the distributor)
- turning the key ...
After a short while it sputtered and tried to run. For a minute or so it would try to catch but would not run. I then decided to bleed the fuel lines at the injectors, played some more with the ignition timing and ... PRESTO! It ran! Hesitatingly, but it ran.
I then heard a wooshing sound and saw ATF fluid splatter from the power steering canister. Time to bleed the steering housing. After that was done, I played some more with the timing, and the air screw on the intake manifold, checked for leaks of any kind (none) and took the car for a very short drive thru the parking lot. Within minutes, it ran better and better. Checked the fluids once more, topped off the automatic transmission fluid, and fitted the hood. The went for a 5-mile drive home, just in time for dinner. After dinner it started right up and I drove about 20 miles on the highway, taking it up to around 65 MPH. It ran great. Back to the garage, checked for leaks and the fluid levels one more time, nothing amiss. The only thing not yet functioning is the kick-down switch for the transmission, but I realized I forgot to hook up the microswitch, so that will most likely take care of that.
I must admit I was a bit apprehensive about getting the car to run right, and without leaks etc., after all that work and all that time. The engine feels very strong, is very responsive and so I have high hopes for the results after I can fine-tune everything with a CO meter, strobe light etc.
I am celebrating right now with a good glass of wine. My wife is relieved too!
Here's a photo of the car sitting proudly outside our house in Amsterdam, taken two hours ago:


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Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[George Davis]

Congratulations, Cees, and nice work!

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[ja17]

Congratulations Cees!
I will toast for the occasion also!
Don't forget to re-torque the head after warm-up and again at around 500 miles. Release pressure in the cooling system before re-torqueing.

The power steering will bleed itself if you allow it to rest and then refil. Fill only to the line below the top of the resevour. Turn the steering from lock to lock allow  foam settle and re-fill to mark.
Short drives allowing  warm-up and cool down are best at first.

Sounds like you will be ready for spring!

Joe

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Cees Klumper]

Thanks George + Joe.
I will retorque the head and check/adjust the valve clearances at the next occasion. Also set the ignition timing properly (I rebuilt the distributor also and need to make sure it operates properly across the entire range), check the linkage adjustments, mixture at idle etc etc.
I was relieved to see that the radiator, which I had forced the brass drain plug assembly out of, which I then soldered back into place, is not leaking. As a precaution, at the suggestion of Dr. Benz, I filled the system with plain water. Now I know the system is fine I will replace it with the proper coolant.

On the power steering unit I followed the instructions in the Haynes manual. The bleeding went very easy, all I needed was a piece of tubing (I used a piece gasoline hose with the same diameter as used for the gas vent tank in the trunk) and a -very rarely used- 11 mm wrench/spanner. Turned on the engine, opened the bleed screw two turns with the hose routed back into the oil canister (behind the distributor) and, at first a lot of foamy oil and air, I had to put in quite some more oil, and after maybe 20 seconds just a steady flow of oil. Haynes says to then put the car up on stands at the front, and turn the wheels lock to lock once or twice while repeating the bleed procedure. I won't go through that routine (tired of raising and lowering my car in the cramped one-car garage all this work takes place in) since Joe pointed out that it will naturally settle itself.
One thing I forgot to mention in my previous post: while the engine was cranking the very first time I tried to start it, I watched for the oil pressure to come up. I was relieved to see that it built up after some time, all the way to the max spot, even when the engine was not running, but only cranking. I watched the gauges carefully the whole time during my several test drives.
When I returned after the last test drive, several older people walked by and immediately started complimenting the car, how gorgeous it looked, beautiful lines, still so good being this old, etc etc (if I had a quarter for each time this happens!) - and the car was covered in dust from 6 months of storage, smudgy finger prints on it from yours truly etc!
Yes I am definitely ready for spring - I had almost forgotten what it's like to actually drive a Pagoda. This summer Jan Schuil, a full member of the Group who has gone through a full restoration and is almost ready with his car (see picture forum), has offered to organize a driving event in the Northern Province of the Netherlands (Friesland), I will try to organize one more driving event, and we will again have the tech session at Van Dijk. I can't wait.
A big thanks to Joe Alexander and also to all the others who provided input on this thread. I literally could not have done this without you!

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Ben]

Well done Cees !

I was in this position almost exactly this time last year and my first drive home felt great, sun shining, top down, new motor....there's nothing like it !

PS I had a few glasses of wine to toast you last night......although I didn't realise last night that I was toasting you !!!  

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor

[hands_aus]

Hey Cees,
I have been following your progress with great interest.
Just driving my car lifts my spirits, I think your spirits must be soaring right now.
Congratulations from "down under"


Bob (Brisbane,Australia)
early 250 SL, RHD

[gwuisman]

Cees,
Congrtulations with the successfull operation!
Gerard Wuisman.

[Benz Dr.]

Dn't drive the car too fast or very hard. What you want to do is speed up and then slow down several imes. By changing engine RPM you break in the cylinder walls correctly.
What happens is the rings will bite into the fresh cast iron under load and when you back off the throttle then the rings will smooth out the area. Doing this repeatedly will knock off all the high spots until you have a perfect seal.
Different engines speeds is the trick.



Daniel G Caron