Author Topic: injection pump removal  (Read 7264 times)

Joe

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injection pump removal
« on: December 06, 2003, 13:22:54 »
I have all the visible hoses, pipes and wires removed. Took off the two nuts at the front, and the bolt that holds the bracket to the engine at the rear. I can wiggle the pump, but it doesn't want to come back. Is there a connection that is hidden that I've missed? Thanks,
Joe

ja17

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2003, 14:06:17 »
Hello Joe,
There are no mystery connections. It should just pull off. Make sure the oil line is unhooked. and the external support. Wiggle harder!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Ricardo

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2003, 17:33:40 »
I remember having to pry the two apart working a small screwdriver in until I could get a bigger one etc.At some point it just popped apart. Dan mentioned that he puts a little oil on the coupling when reinstalling. Perhaps the coupling gets dryed out,inside and doesn't want to slide.
Ricardo
« Last Edit: December 06, 2003, 17:38:25 by Ricardo »

Cees Klumper

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2003, 17:49:42 »
The ones I pulled off so far (5 or so) went rather easily - the connection was invariably pretty oily. The oil line that is sort of hidden from view between the FI pump and the block as Joe points out is something to make sure is loose. And the splined connection is a bit long + close, so pulling it back in a straight line may help.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

n/a

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2003, 19:51:18 »
Hey Joe

I recently removed/installed my injection pump ('65 230SL) and there were 3 nuts to be removed from the front mounting flange and one at the rear of the pump.  Looking at your post, you may have missed one.


quote:
Originally posted by Joe

I have all the visible hoses, pipes and wires removed. Took off the two nuts at the front, and the bolt that holds the bracket to the engine at the rear. I can wiggle the pump, but it doesn't want to come back. Is there a connection that is hidden that I've missed? Thanks,
Joe



Tony M
1965 230SL (Auto)

ja17

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2003, 00:50:13 »
Good point RV,
We missed that clue. Yes there are three nuts holding the pump to the block.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Tom

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2003, 08:31:07 »
Joe,

You probably read the manual on this procedure but just in case...don't forget to set the engine timing to 20 degrees *after* TDC and keep that position until the pump is back on the car.

Best,

Tom
1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

Joe

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2003, 11:19:01 »
Yeah, I found the third nut on the bottom. Was about to go at it with a sledge and chisel. It came right off. Felt like a fool when I saw the nut. I had been scanning the bottom of the pump from a point behind the front wheel, and it can't be seen from there. When I laid in front of the wheel, there it was, plain as day.
So, when I put it back on, I align the marks on the IP and set the engine to 20 degrees atc and just put it in. Is that correct?
What is involved in cleaning the injectors on the intake ports? Can this be done with a can of carb cleaner and air pressure?
Thanks for the help.
Joe
1965 Euro 4-speed

Cees Klumper

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2003, 15:24:09 »
Apparently the injectors can be cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner - like the jewellers use. They also can be tested for leakage, proper pressure and spray pattern.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

Tom

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #9 on: December 07, 2003, 21:23:42 »
Joe,

Your engine should be set at 20 ATDC when you pulled the pump off.  From your post, it sounds like you plan to reset the engine timing to 20 ATDC before you put the pump back on.  If you did not set the engine timing at 20 ATDC before pulling the pump off and want to do it now before it goes back on, I would seek additional comments from the technical experts on the site as to how this may or may not impact coordination of timing between the pump and engine.

Also, it is easy to get 180 degrees off when setting the engine timing.  Ensure that the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, the distributor notch and rotor as well as the cam notch all indicate 20 after top dead center.

Best,

Tom
1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

ja17

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #10 on: December 07, 2003, 21:35:06 »
Hello Joe and Tom,
It is not that difficult to set the engine to the correct position even if the pump is out. set the engine to 20 deg ATDC next take the oil filler cap off and make sure that the cam lobes over #1 cylinder are upward (10 o'clock and 2 o'clock). This is an indication that the engine is on the compression stroke. If these lobes are pointing down then continue rotating the engine until 20 deg ATDC comes up again. Always turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation.


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Benz Dr.

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Re: injection pump removal
« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2003, 12:04:10 »
I use oil on the coupler because I wash everything in solvent while I'm working on them. The oil is needed s it won't bind going on.
It must be noted that it's 20 degrees ADTC on number one piston. In other words the two valves should be closed and the piston will be on the power stroke. In this position the intake valve will be just begining to open on number six cylinder.
Dabn c

Daniel G Caron
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
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1970  3.5 Coupe
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