Wiring issues 101

[J. Huber]

Yet another update. I started thinking about the wire that keeps the Number 1 fuse all the time and its relationship to the headlamp flasher. So I followed the wire back to the light switch. (tach out again! -- got it down to 2 minutes!)... I tried to remove headlight unit but the chrome collar would not budge. So I checked it in situ. All the connections were good, so I figured, "next." Then I saw a patch of exposed wire -- the big one that comes from starter. Lit the tester up like the 4th of July! Struck me as a dangerous situation -- so I secured it with more tape. Still no flasher but I think its lucky I found that exposed section.

So I am about out of ideas on the flash to pass. I checked and doubled checked every wire I could get to and the connections at stalk, at pin connectors (both sides), at the fuse box, and at the headlamp assembly. Thing just doesn't work. Battery seems to be holding at 12.20-35 -- so I guess its time to move on.

[Peter van Es]

James,

forget the flash-to-pass... do you stil have current drain now that you've found that exposed wire? If you have a current drain, the car won't start, and you won't be overtaking anything so the flash-to-pass is useless anyway. So use the original test to see if you now have NO current draining over fuse 1.

Do remember that some electrical tape will not last forever, especially if it gets warm. A better solution is new wire, but if that's hard, use some crimp insulation...

Peter

[Mike Hughes]

I know this sounds obvious, and I am a little fuzzy on the exact detail as I did the flash to pass hook-up on my U.S. spec 230SL a couple of years ago (per diirections found either on this site or Dorian's site), but isn't the wire for flash to pass routed through one of the fuses in the oblong fuse box under the hood?  Might be worth checking, as well as the screw connections on the back of the fuse block...

[J. Huber]

Thanks Peter & Mike -- good suggestions all. Well, doing the original ammeter test of fuses out -- then in, the result is a flashing 0.00 Amps to 0.01 Amps only on fuse 1. Since this is the lowest possible reading on my meter -- I am thinking it is the clock which would be the only thing drawing power. Guess I could unhook clock and try it.

Mike, you have the hook-up correct I think. Mine is a euro and the flash to pass had worked. It was only recently as I reinstalled my rebuilt gauges that this whole saga began. The hi-beam indicator was out and the flash to pass went intermittent then nada. What threw a wrench in it all was a dead battery one day -- that began the detour of battery drain. Hi-beam was the bulb. Battery may have been a short-type drain or something else. I had the battery charged without checking so who knows, maybe it was not drained... but when I put it back, car started fine...Thus the tracing of wires, etc. None of it resulted in a flasher fix. AT the moment, car is like a spring chicken. The weather has turned nice and I am back to finding excuses to take a drive. 

[tel76]

Hello Peter
I hope you do not think this is a stupid question but in one of the your posts above you quote 3 formulae.(probably not the correct terminology)
Where do you get these from,is there an index,how do i acces these items?

[Peter van Es]

Eric,

they are in the Technical Manual:

• http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Troubleshooting
• http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Ground
• or, for the whole shebang: http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Start

James, that could indeed be the clock. To make sure I would disconnect and test again if there's any current draw. You need to feel sure that when you've parked your pagoda after a drive, you'll be able to get away again without a flat battery.

Peter

[hands_aus]

Hello James,

The only thing that caught my attention was one of the rivet like things (you see when you look down into the switch with cover off) was unattached. Just floating around in there. May explain why my stalk on right turns doesn't hold. I took the piece out -- not much I can do with it -- others may have tried to reattach it with solder?

I vaguely remember that "rivet" is a contact point and as such is necessary.

Perhaps you could compare the way the contacts operate for the left turn function in the stalk .
I think they can be repaired.

[J. Huber]

Hi Bob. I too recall something about the rivets. I think it may have even been on the old Pagoda113 site -- posted by the venerable George Davis I believe. There is very useful info about the stalk switch here for sure -- which I have studied very closely. Unfortunately, I need a picture most of the time! This would be one of them.

I do have a strong suspicion that one of the contact points in my stalk switch is the culprit for the inop flasher. Not the rivet in question but one of the small strips that makes contact with the copper plate... I plan to open up the switch again sometime and try some remedies -- after some Pagoda road time. Thanks.

[Peter van Es]

James,

I had a look at all the photographs I have from the old Pagoda113 site. None of the stalk switch... so I can't help you there. Most of the content from that site's How To articles is now in the Technical Manual. Stuff hidden in the forum messages is not always... typically because it's hard to find.

Remember, I do not have the Pagoda113 forum software, and it is not available anymore. I do have the database (although messages have been made anonymous), and I wrote a (very simple) program to access it, which I use to get data out of the database. If you'd like to have a look, it is on my own server in my basement (so don't you all go hammer it now) but if you look, and find something new and interesting, you must promise to add it to the Technical Manual straight-away. That's what I do.

If you'd like to have a look at the old Pagoda113 content, look here: http://bali.esweb.nl/~vanesp/p113index.php

Peter