Some questions???????????

[SteveK]

I have a 1966-230SL (with a early 70's 280SL engine).  The technical manual is great and has answered most of my questions to date.   I've started cleaning up the engine bay now and I'm getting into some little stuff it doesn't cover.   So here are a few questions;  1) There is a funny "E" stenciled on the front of my engine.  Any idea what that means?   2)When I pulled the coolant resevoir the little pedestal it stands on was separated.  I can't see how you connect steel to brass.  Was this originally glued?  3) I pulled the alternator, AC and bracket out.  The passanger side of the engine is coated with gunk which I'm removing.   Is this normal? where could it come from?  I don't see anything like it on the drivers side.   I'm not doing a major restoration since the engine was running great.  My tach started squeeling so I pulled it out to get rebuilt and one thing led to another!   I'm just going to do some clean up and touch up painting, replacing the firewall pad, replacing all belts and hoses and then trying to figure out what to do with the AC.  Have already had the radiator re-cored and will also replace the water pump just for good measure.   Any help would be really appreciated.

[waqas]

3) I pulled the alternator, AC and bracket out.  The passanger side of the engine is coated with gunk which I'm removing.   Is this normal? where could it come from?  I don't see anything like it on the drivers side.   I'm not doing a major restoration since the engine was running great.

As far as I'm aware, the engine exterior needs no lubrication. So no, it's not normal 
I believe some of the A/C bracket bolts (as well as others in that area) actually enter oil or coolant passageways. Make sure you use thread sealant when you replace the bolts.
Do a search, I remember some old posts in which this topic was discussed.

[graphic66]

The mounts on the bottom of the water tank are soldered on. Very easy fix. Mine was that way when I bought it. The PO said the car always had a rattle that came out of the left side of the dash, that was it. Just get some radiator solder,  flux and a torch. Super clean the areas that solder and first tin the spots they meet then put them together and solder them, very easy. After that you will be all practiced up to re solder the brackets that hold the heater core in place. Looks like your going into that direction. Lots of work but worth it. I personally would leave the water pump as my motto is " If it isn't broken don't fix it". But if you think it looks like it is old and you have the time and money why not. You may stop that oil leak by doing it. Some of the water pumps habve a lubrication spot on them, check that out. You may just want to lube it and drive the car.

[Mike Hughes]

The pedestal strap is soldered to the bottom if the 230SL coolant tank.  It is fairly common for this to come undone from vibration over the years.  Any radiator shop should be able to solder it up for you.  While you are at it have them burn off the flaking paint on the coolant tank.  If you can't find the correct DB matte/satin paint to refinish it try this:  Most automotive paint stores sell, in convenient aerosol spray cans, a rubberized black paint used to retouch black rubber bumpers that is virtually indistinguishable from the original M-B finish.

[al_lieffring]

Read through the chain tensioner tour

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=3525.msg20777#msg20777

and look for the section on the hidden bolt under the chain tensioner pool.

[graphic66]

I used Eastwoods radiator paint on my tank and radiator. It comes in rattle cans and worked very well.

[SteveK]

Thanks all for all of the tips.  I have a torch so will try soldering next weekend.  I did strip the tank today using KWIX spray stripper which I have used before.  It realy works great and had the tank down to bare brass in 15 minutes with little labor.  (I've been buying this stuff from Home Depot for a few years now.)  I also went looking for the oil lead, but couldn't find anything.  The chain tentioner sump was a good tip but I could not find an opening.   Could just be 25 years of build up.  In any case it's all cleaned up now, lots of degreaser and a pressure washer did the trick! 

[SteveK]

After the clean engine sat for a week, I did find where the oil is coming from.  It is the chain tensioner bolt (thanks Al for directing me there!) that apears to have a horizontal weep hole in the top part of the water pump housing cut out.  It's a tiny leak, but one none the less.   Oh well, got lots of parts off, might as well dig into this one also!    If anyone has fixed this before, know of any surprises?