Author Topic: 2 Repair questions  (Read 3725 times)

mespe

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2 Repair questions
« on: April 25, 2009, 12:05:37 »
1) should I remove the hood to replace the water pump? Seems like it'll be alot easier without the hood in the way. Or is the hood really difficult to reinstall?

2) What physical route does the black/pink wire from the fuel shut-off solenoid take, where does it end up? I don't want to disturb any wiring that I don't have to.

Thanks in advance,,, photo's and documentation of my process will be incoproated into another thread,,,
« Last Edit: April 26, 2009, 11:37:15 by mespe »

merrill

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Re: 2 Repair questions
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2009, 15:13:49 »
If you don't want to remove the hood you can remove the radiator which will give
you head on access to the bolts to remove the fan and the water pump housing.


if you can, put the front on jack stands and then after removing the air filter housing and battery and radiator hoses you can lower the radiator down to the floor.

you do not have to remove the radiator all the way just get enough clearance.

R/R the hood is not that hard, re installing and getting the alignment perfect is a little challenging
but not impossible.

Personally I would pull the hood, it would make access to all the stuff you have to get to much easier.

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

Jonny B

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Re: 2 Repair questions
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2009, 19:29:19 »
If you opt to pull off the hood, use masking tape to outline around the hinges before you unbolt it. That way you know exactly where the hood should line up when it comes time to re-install.
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

waqas

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Re: 2 Repair questions
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2009, 19:44:56 »
In addition to Jonny B's excellent suggestion, I would place masking tape around the entire edge of the hood to diminish the risk of chipping during re-installation.

Be especially careful when removing the hood spring.. many a hood has gotten chipped when the spring snaps back. You might also consider attaching a spring lock (chain, etc) in order to secure the spring end to the hood itself (many holes underneath hood to facilitate this). This would not only prevent the spring from snapping, it would facilitate re-installing the hood.
Waqas (Wa-kaas) in Austin, Texas

jameshoward

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Re: 2 Repair questions
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2009, 09:18:48 »
I've only done this repair by dropping the rad (I got the wrong pump first; some good advice was given to me here http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=8820.0). Rad removal is not a complex process provided you can get the car on stands or better if you can get the car over a pit, in which case it becomes very easy. Also a good time to change the coolant, clean the front of the engine, clean the rad, replace that little pipe that Waqas referred to in the attached link, all the other jobs, etc. Removing the rad will take about 30 mins or so. I've found it helps to have a second person to assist at the final stages when removing and replacing.

JH
James Howard
1966 LHD 230SL

mespe

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Re: 2 Repair questions
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2009, 11:36:47 »
Thank you all for the wonderful suggestions, you've just made my water pump R/R alot easier. with the hood off, I should probably detail the engine, make it look good once again, I tell ya, at this rate, I just hope my business doesn't suffer from lack of attention,,,

Anyone know anything about the black/pink wire?