Author Topic: idle adjustment screw  (Read 5606 times)

maxevans

  • Guest
idle adjustment screw
« on: May 12, 2009, 17:26:06 »
I'm an owner of a 69 280sl and am having problems with getting the fuel adjustment correct. I have read alot about the adjustment of the linkage and the such and still can't get the fuel to lean out enough. I know they say turning the idle adjustment screw on the injection pump counterclockwise leans the mixture out but is this from the front of the car or from the rear of the car since I have tried both ways to no avail. Any suggestions?

Jonny B

  • Pagoda SL Board
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, San Marcos
  • Posts: 4198
Re: idle adjustment screw
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2009, 22:24:33 »
Counter clockwise as if you were able to look at the adjustment screw from the rear of the injection pump (toward the front of the car).
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

Cees Klumper

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Fallbrook
  • Posts: 5719
    • http://SL113.org
Re: idle adjustment screw
« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2009, 21:58:42 »
Like Jonny says - plus, the only way to turn the screw is with your right hand approaching it from the firewall-side; and then the direction is counter-clockwise.

If leaning it out that way is insufficient (and you've ensured that the intake flap is close to binding when idling), then removing a shim from underneath the barometric pressure compensator - the round 'canister'/'hatbox'-like widget that sits on top of the FI pump- could do the trick. Removing shims has the effect of leaning out the mixture across the entire range (idle, mid and full-load range). Our FI pumps tend to wear rich, so this may work for you.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

maxevans

  • Guest
Re: idle adjustment screw
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2009, 23:16:49 »
Thanks for the info on the direction of the screw. I have turned this a few times in the correct direction but it still seems to be running rich. I have gone through the linkage tour  enough to get the fi pump and the intake flap on their stops with the flap closed. I have also set the linkage rod at 233mm. I have overhauled this engine and soaked the pump and cleaned it out. With both cover plates off  everthing seems to be rotating properly when the spline is turned. I have removed the 2 oval shims from under the barometric pressur compensator. How many times can you turn this screw? This car sat for many years before i got it so maybe i will try to get it as close as i can and give it an itialian tune up and see what happens.
« Last Edit: May 14, 2009, 08:57:52 by vanesp »

ctaylor738

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, VA, Falls Church
  • Posts: 1174
Re: idle adjustment screw
« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2009, 07:14:52 »
Are you sure you are actually engaging and turning the idle mixture screw? 

You need to press in firmly and turn the thumbwheel until you feel it engage the adjuster.  Then when you turn it, you will fell a 'click' after about 1/8 of a turn.  If someone tried to adjust the mixture with the engine running, then it is jammed at full rich.  This is how my 230 was when I got it running.  The fix for me was to grab the thumbwheel with vice-grips, push it in, and turn it CCW.

Before I did this, I farted around with mine for a while thinking I was adjusting the mix.
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA