Author Topic: fuel pump rebuild  (Read 5191 times)

charlie

  • Guest
fuel pump rebuild
« on: June 24, 2009, 02:37:41 »
In the technical forum it says use 5mm by 1mm o ring on the pump shaft but it also says at the end use a 5mm by 1.5mm does anyone know which is the correct sizing so i can order the correct fuel resistant o-ring. Any help will be appreciated. Cheers Charlie.

Benz Dr.

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7220
  • Benz Dr.
Re: fuel pump rebuild
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2009, 22:47:49 »
I'd take that to read that there are two O rings of two different sizes. Get those two O rings and that would be a start.
I assume you are doing the early pump. It can be hard or next to impossible to get them leak proof.

1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

charlie

  • Guest
Re: fuel pump rebuild
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2009, 06:45:06 »
Yes it is an earlier pump. It's the taller pump. If i cant get it too seal does anyone know pricings for a new pump. Cheers

George Des

  • Guest
Re: fuel pump rebuild
« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2009, 12:25:32 »
Charlie,

The large pump can be successfully rebuilt so that it will not leak. The shaft rubber o-ring is a key part of the sealing. I will need to look to see what size o-rings I've been using for this, but what is more important than the stock size is the "sizing" that you must do to the o-ring once it is fitted to the shaft. As I recall, this step was not included in the Tech Manual and I have never been able to fit a stock o-ring, right out of the box and have it successfully seal the shaft. Essentially, what I do is to install a small o-ring--I'll find the size out for you later--onto the shaft. It needs to fit very tightly so that it does not slip during the "sizing" process which follows. After fitting the o-ring, chuck the armature assembly into a drill press with the seal side down. Try fitting the bellows seal onto the shaft with the grooves facing downwards w/o forcing it. It should not at this point slip past the o-ring. Remove the bellows and turn on the drill press while holding some fine sandpaper against the rubber o-ring to sand it down and reduce its outside diameter so that the bottom of the bellows just slips past it. This is a trail and error process and you may have to repeat it several times until the bellows slips past it. The key is not to force the bellows on,  yet when it does go past the o-ring you want it to lodge tight against the top (grooved) portion of the bellows--the inside the holes on both ends of the bellows are of slightly different diamters- this is how you ensure a fuel tight seal in this area.

George Des

glenn

  • Guest
Re: fuel pump rebuild
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2009, 18:54:38 »
Also, a very, very small point on rebuild.  I think the o-rings on the rods that hold the top bearing housing go on the outside--- housing, o-ring, washer, nut.   Rebuild says they go on the inside.  ???

hands_aus

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Australia, Queensland, Brisbane
  • Posts: 1543
Re: fuel pump rebuild
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2009, 09:31:31 »
when I took the motor end cap off, the o-rings were on the inside.
I reported what I found.

I used the 5mm x 1 mm o-ring because it was a perfect replacement for the broken one on the shaft and did not need to 'sized' to allow the bronze seal to fit over it.

the article was written as a guide.

« Last Edit: June 28, 2009, 09:33:31 by hands_aus »
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best

charlie

  • Guest
Re: fuel pump rebuild
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2009, 08:15:04 »
thanks all, managed a successful rebuild. Resized the o-ring with sandpaper & it worked well. Thanks for all your help & advise. Cheers  ;D