Author Topic: 250 SL - What to look for  (Read 3064 times)

rengawdor

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250 SL - What to look for
« on: September 01, 2009, 01:52:59 »
Hi! 
I'm new to this forum
I have a friend with a 1967 250 SL.  It has been stored in his garage for the last several years, and he starts it periodically.  However, he has not driven it in the last several years.  He wants to start driving it again, and he wants me to get the car to the point where he can do that.  I have rebuilt and restored cars for over 35 years - all kinds, but never a Mercedes.
I'm going to look at the car in a couple days, just to see if I'm interested in doing the job.  Before I look at the car, I have some questions:
1.  Are there any items I should be particularly concerned about such as rust areas, critical components, etc?
2.  Where does one obtain parts for these cars - are there suppliers for things like brake components, bearings, interior, etc?
3.  Are the parts readily available, or does it take 6 months to get anything/everything?
4.  Are there any "must have components" - things that the car must have, or it's a waste of money to restore at a reasonable price?
5.  Anything else I need to be aware of when I go to look at this car?
Any insights you could give me are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Rod


Peter van Es

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Re: 250 SL - What to look for
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2009, 06:32:36 »
Rod,

welcome. Al the answers to the questions you ask are here on the forum and in the Technical Manual. I'm afraid it means you have to do quite a lot of reading, as the questions you ask are pretty much a "teach me everything about Pagoda's in 5 easy answers". Start by reading the Technical Manual, and there start here: http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Buying/Start

Then work your way through the Tech Manual from top to bottom... Learn how to use the search function on the forum: that's very well described in our video tutorial here: http://www.sl113.org/WebsiteTutorials.html (choose the Forum Tutorial)

Peter
1970 280SL. System Admin of the site. Please do not mail or PM me questions on Pagoda's... I'm not likely to know the answer.  Please post on the forum instead!

Dash808

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Re: 250 SL - What to look for
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2009, 06:51:57 »
Hello Rod,

Congratulations on finding the right place for info, and like Peter said it will take some reading.  The Search button and Tech manual is your friend!

You're a good man to do this for your friend. 

If all he wants to do is get it to driving condition then it *may* be easily doable. 
Rust shouldn't (gulp) be a concern if all he wants to do is "drive it".  Look at the floor boards, rockers, and trunk floor for rust.
Yes most parts are readily available.
Long list of Suppliers listed on the site

Pictures always help put the project into prospective.

Maybe you should also point your friend to the site so he can have and idea as to what is in store for his 113.
Chan Johnson
'67 250sl
Napoli Italian Euro

Bang Bang Booogie!

Kayvan

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Re: 250 SL - What to look for
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2009, 19:29:18 »
1.  #1 issue -- dont start that car!  

The issue is bad gas -- after 3-5 yrs its mostly water.  Most likely the original fill up from 3-5 years ago is till in there, and has been topped up or watered down.  Drain the tank, and put in fresh gas and a cap full of Marvel mystery oil and Stabil fuel perservative.  It will most likely sit some more during restoration or future years.

That bad gas/rust particles can wreak havoc on the BOSCH mechanical fuel-injection unit...its like a little engine with 6 pistons that is built like a swiss watch. Any water from bad gas will seize it and lead to a costly rebuild.

2.   99.9% of parts are available.. Its a German car, they kept meticulous records and every nut/bolt is numbered.

K&K, Millers, Buds, and the Mercedes Classic Center (Irvine, CA) are some parts sources.

3.  7 Days for most parts.  Some like the Top Frame, Grille, Sun Visors, Ash tray are VERY expensive.

4.  Chrome....if its missing all chrome trim, the Convertible top frame, etc...it can easily go into multi thousands.. Hard top also get lost/separated from cars, so make sure he has it.

Ps, the plastic heater-levers are very delicate/fraigile and brittle....handle with care...as they break and you have to take apart dash to change.

5.  I would flush all fluids, change all plugs, points, filters (incl. fuel/transmsision) and look at brakes, change tires (dry rot).  The Calipers are most likely seized (even if it moves) and the booster might have leakes if fluid has not been changed in years and has moisture.  Plan on new hoses, belts, and a new battery, battery cut-off swich.  The clock drains battery, and its a good fix.  Also, get it on a lift, rust can hide everywhere: flloors, trunk, quarter panels....point out to owner extent so both are on same page re: $/time

This car is very sensitive to how its timing is set; I would recommend letting someone with experience handle any adjustments to fuel injection, cold start/hot valves, and associated hardware geometry.

I would also recommend a thorough power washing of outside, underdeath, steam cleaning of engine bay and vacuming/cleaning of inside of car.  These cars attract rodents/moisture and musty fumes attract to horse hair seat pads.  A good cleaning/shampoo of seats/rugs will add to usability.  Further, you can track down fluid leaks/seeps easily after cleaning.

Also, DONT throw anything away from this car....even broken, cracked, rusted, distorted parts can be salvaged and resold for $1000s.  


I would get his VIN# and send an email to the Mercedes Classic Center email (below); they will email you a scan of the M-B Data card with all engine, drivetrain, axle, steering #s so you know what you have in original colors, parts #, options.  

Classicparts@mbusa.com
« Last Edit: September 01, 2009, 20:27:00 by Kayvan »