Engine Bay Clean up?

[Kayvan]

Any tips on solvents for engine bay clean up.

I am trying to clean up my engine bay, and will probably scotchbrite some of the areas that have acquired tarnish or oxidation (master cylinder, steel lines).  My fuel injection lines are really discolored with rust or tarnish.  I am relutcant to put much pressure on these and was considering maybe a polishing or nylon wheel....?

Whats the consensus on solutions & solvents; heated water/steam, plastic bagging components, etc.

I seem to recall most are going with the Organic, Simply Green stuff v. the old spray-on Gunk to save hoses and other seals.

My manifold is coated with surface rust (that will have to wait) and I'm trying to clean up things with new clamps, and wipe down hoses and major assemblies to make it more tidy.

Thanks

[bpossel]

Kayvan,

Before I had my engine redone by Metric, I used a large deep plastic pan that I bought from Walmart and lots of Simple Green.  Many hours of scraping, scrubbing and Simple Green.  Removed the large clumps of old oil & grease with a putty knife.  Then scrubbed with small brass brushes and old tooth brushes after the Simple Green soaked in.  Also had a spray bottle filled with water to spray a final rinse as I got down to the engine wall.
Good Luck,
Bob  

[forrestjordan]

Kayvan,
I have been doing the same thing on my 280 and have found lots of prior posts on this site about different products and what you should and should not use on what parts of the engine and its parts.  Use the "search" and also tech manual, great info in both areas.
Forrest

[RickM]

Any tips on solvents for engine bay clean up.

Wow, lots of different chemicals for lots of different cleaning challenges. Good all-around solvents are the citrus based solvent/degreaser/cleaners. Be careful of strength as they can attack paint, plastic, adhesives, rubber etc. Home Depot sells an inexpensive gallon concentrate which can be diluted if necessary. Variants of citrus based chemicals are "Goo Gone" and "Goof Off" which are used to remove sticker adhesives, crayon, tar etc.

Another very good cleaner is called Oil-Flo Safety Solvent: http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Flo-Safety-Solvent-Cleaner/dp/B0009KKSX0               Highly regarded by the detailing crowd.

Other good, readily available cleaners are Spray-Nine (Stronger version of Formula 409/Fantastic), WD-40 and Brake Cleaner (this is also good for removing grease stains from upholstery and clothing).

For rusted steel parts I sometimes remove the piece, media blast and coat with the appropriate material to prevent oxidation. This can be a standard clear paint, high temp clear (VHT paints are great-perhaps for your cleaned brake lines), powder coat or color appropriate paint.

Use a little science (electrolysis) to remove rust with a battery charger, water, an anode and a bit of time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8vT2mdXBs8

If you cannot remove rust and get to bare metal the POR-15 products are second to none. It's been around for a long time and has a very good reputation in the automobile restoration and marine communities. I just used quite a bit during an industrial rebuild project I oversaw.....we used alot! http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Paint/products/1/. Mind you, this product can be used on "new" metals, however, proper preparation is required to provide a clean surface with a "bite" for the paint to adhere to.

If you need an aggressive chemical to remove the likes of anodizing an old trick is to use oven cleaner. Let sit for 15 minutes, rinse (repeat if necessary) and you're on your way to bare metal. Again try in an inconspicuous location first.

For cleaning NON-anodized aluminum (especially cast components) use one of the degreasers mentioned above and then hit with wheel cleaner, let sit, scrub and rinse. These typically come in different strengths so some experimentation may be required to achieve desired results.

To go a bit further into detailing:

For the shiny bits, such as screws, clamps, fittings etc which originally came with a gold finish I would remove and find a local business to replate. This specific coating is commonly referred to as Yellow Dye Chromate, Yellow Chromate or Zinc Chromate Yellow....you get the idea. Basically an inexpensive, sacrificial coating to protect steel parts. I have cleared over newly plated parts when out of sight and exposed to the elements.



Hope this helps.



 

[Intex]

I have also restored my car, except for the engine compartment, and would like to begin.
What is the clear paint that you use to go over the steel parts??

[graphic66]

This stuff is great at polishing parts, it works great and has a place in everyones shop. Just a note, keep the cover on always. Even a few minutes left open can reduce it's potency. Nevr- dull Magic Wadding polish http://www.beval.com/Products/Nevr-Dull-Magic-Wadding-Polish/5450002.aspx  . A little bit goes a long ways also.
   I also use steel wool on many parts also, in conjunction with your cleaner/solvent of choice or dry it's cheap and really scrubs. Get a few bags of different grades.
   I have been using an acid based rust remover quite a bit lately. POR15 has on called Metal Ready, Eastwood's has one called Fast Etch. It is just a weak acid that takes rust off and etches the surface to give your paint some "tooth" to grab on. It is required when using POR 15 paint on unrusted surfaces. I soak the part with the acid for about 15 minutes with a brush and keep it wet the whole time.  There is a nuetralizer available to use after. Then you wash the part with a degreasing soap, POR15 sells that also, I think they call it Marine Clean. It seems a lot like Super Purple soap.
    And a really great product that I always use as the very last wash before paint is windex on a cotton rag, not paper towels, they leave dust/ lint. Windex really cleans and leaves no residue. It is overlooked many times as a strong cleaner to use on many surfaces.
   Common auto rubbing compound can help polish underhhod parts also, as it is abrasive and cleans very well. Don't forget to lubricate all your moving parts after a super cleaning like your ball/socket joints on the throttle linkage. You have just degreased everthing and a few drops of oil are needed here and there after claning.

[RickM]

I have also restored my car, except for the engine compartment, and would like to begin.
What is the clear paint that you use to go over the steel parts??

If you can remove the part the best clear coating (IMO) is clear powder coat. You can do yourself with an inexpensive kit as sold by Eastwood, Harbor Freight or a myriad of other online retailers.....and smelling up your kitchen oven. You can also source a local vendor to do the the work for you. Youtube is an invaluable resource for how-to video and I'm sure there are plenty covering this subject.

The next best on my list is VHT paint. http://www.vhtpaint.com/ Their line of paints (standard, high temp and very high temp) are typically available at auto parts stores. While quite effective when sprayed and air dried, it's best to bake according to the instructions. Many use their gas grill to accomplish this.

Speaking of polish...I also like Never-Dull. It's usually what I use for easy clean-up and polish. It uses chemicals (including ammonia) to dissolve oxidants and dirt as opposed to abrasives. Another similar cleaner/polish is called Noxon. I find it at many local supermarkets at a very moderate cost and it's a relatively large bottle.

Two other great polishes in my arsenal are Simichrome and P21S Multi Surface Finish Restorer (really good for uncoated polished aluminum).