Author Topic: need help going crazy with injection pump adjustment i think I tried all  (Read 5815 times)

w113dude

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when I adjust the linkage on my 250sl  per the BBB with the 3/8 tube , when the injection pump is at the stop the rod mesure 229mm not 233mm .the only way the car will run is if the rod is longer so it pushes the arm from the pump about 5mm .no mater how much I adjust the injection pump screw the car does not run well .I tried playing with warm up shims and nothing . what to do next?
just installed a pertronix unit and coil and the timing is spot on.
Thanks for your help

Shaun

Larry & Norma

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Sorry i can't help with your problem but i am interested in which Pertronix part you fitted and how much it cost. Thanks
Larry Hall (Gnuface)
2023 Ioniq6
2005 C230
1970 280SL

w113dude

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Sorry i can't help with your problem but i am interested in which Pertronix part you fitted and how much it cost. Thanks

Module unit #1864LA, coil #40511 total cost about $120.00
Shaun
« Last Edit: October 07, 2009, 18:11:10 by w113dude »

Larry & Norma

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Wow that was a quick reply, thanks. One more thing which Bosch disributor do you have?
Larry Hall (Gnuface)
2023 Ioniq6
2005 C230
1970 280SL

w113dude

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Wow that was a quick reply, thanks. One more thing which Bosch disributor do you have?

It's 051

Tonys113

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Shaun,
Have you completed the ENTIRE LINKAGE TOUR?
Are you positive that the Throttle body butterfly is completely closed an also on the STOP?
Are any other parts (Balls and Sockets) warn out?
Is there a possibility that the STOP Plate on the IP has been moved by someone before?
Was the car running before? Before you installed the Petronix Unit?
Are you using or By-Passing the Ballast Resistor?

All of these items will have an Effect on the idle quality. See some of my posts, having has some of these same issues.
My biggest problem was a defective Coil, yes brand new out of the box and no good, The MISS in the ignition was nearly undetectable at idle but distinctive at 3000rpm and above.
Idle Air Valve sticking can also be a problem, you said you messed around with the shims in the WRD, are you sure the rack in the IP is FREE. You may want to remove the 5mm screw in back of pump (above the idle adjuster) insert thin bladed screw-driver until you feel it hit the rack screw inside, gently press in on the screw driver. The rack should move forward (toward the front of the car) and SPRING BACK. You should feel some resistance in depressing and it should spring back freely.

I have the same Petronix unit in my 051 distributor. It was the best thing I could ever have done. Simple installation, spot on timing, I did however maintain the ballast resistor in the primary ignition circuit.

Tony
« Last Edit: October 07, 2009, 19:32:23 by Tonys113 »

jeffc280sl

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Shaun,

I just went throught the linkage tour and adjusted all of the linkage on my car.  It involved changinging out almost all of the balls and sockets as well as the brass bushing on the cross over shaft.  It makes a world of difference.  Can you move the linkage even a tiny bit on the injection pump without moving the venturi butterfly?  Whatever you do make sure the linkage is set so that the fip and venturi return to their stops reliably like 100 % of the time.  Once my balls, sockets and bushings were replaced it was necessary for methe loosen both ends of the verturi linkage and spin the linkage ever so little to get it perfect.  A single turn of one socket end was too much and threw the tolerance off.  Once everything is tight tolerances are very fine.

w113dude

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Thanks, Tony,Jeff

After further inspection & a bit more patience, the problem turned out to be combination of a few things, links, ball connections, and most of all the IP was way too lean, now it idles at 750 to 800 rpm, CO read is at 4.0.
Took it for a ride & drove great,  I must also add the Pertronix system made a huge difference,  making the car far more responsive.

Thanks again,
Shaun

jeffc280sl

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Glad to hear you resolved the problem.  I also had to take a second look at the linkage.  I thought I had it adjusted right before changing the balls and sockets.  I simply did not understand the effect of a sloppy ball joint.  In my case the fip and venturi did not return to their full stop positions.  Sometimes the fip stopped just a little short.  A second and third look reveals the tolerances required to make it right.  I'm surprised I didn't get that earlier.