280sl will not start, or turn over?

[Intex]

I tried to start the car today, nothing happened, so I purchased a new battery and installed it.
When I turn the key:
1. The fuel pump goes on.
2. I hear two clicks, then nothing

The motor does not even turn over. Any ideas? This car has been used about 10 miles/year since it was restored, and on a per mile basis, this is getting extremely expensive.
Could it be the coil, starter, etc. How can I check for these?
Thank you

[J. Huber]

Is it an automatic?

[waqas]

Have you made sure your battery connections are good? (looks can be deceptive; clean the terminals and tighten the clamps to make sure)

[Intex]

Yes, it is automatic, or else I would have pushed it to start.
I will try to see connections, but doubt it. It is a new battery, and I tightened the clamp pretty tight.

[J. Huber]

I would double check the gadget on the driver's side firewall that won't allow the car to start unless its in Park. (obviously cannot think of the name). It has a cable and if it gets moved out of position it will inhibit starting...worth a try

[SteveK]

Turning on the headlights will let you know if the battery is well connected.  I'm with James, try the safety switch first.  Take the transmission out of park and then back in a few times to see if it makes something happen.   If that does nothing, I would use a remote starter switch (if you don't have one, $10 at the local autoparts store) and connect it between the + terminal on your battery and the G terminal on the termo time switch at the back of the head.  (You may want to join as a Full Memeber to see the Valve Addjusting Tour which has good pictures on how to do this).  That will let you know really quick if there's anything wrong with the solenoid or starter.  (If they are OK it should crank)  Be safe and disconnect the coil wire to make sure it does'nt start!  If it cranks, I would guess it's either the ignition switch or the transmission safety switch.

[Intex]

Steve,
Thank you for the info, I will try tommorrow, as it's a little too dark now, and report back results.

[Kayvan]

Put in fresh gas 10mi/yr....means that tanks of gas is form the 90s

The Fuel will break down to water, and seize your FI pump

[Intex]

I drained the fuel early this year and put in a new fuel pump, so that is not the problem- Thanks anyway,.

[Intex]

NOW I THINK I HAVE A BIG PROBLEM??
I tried to move the gear select back in/out of park, but it seems extremely loose now. I can move it with my pinky, as if it is free-moving. Could it be that it has dis-engaged from the gear linkgage and that is why it is not going into park, and not starting??  I will put it in park and see if I can move the car back and forth.

[J. Huber]

Hi Intex. Well believe it or not, you may be on the right track. It sounds like one of the small nylon bushings on the shifter linkage has given out. It is common and is not too expensive to remedy. Do a search here on shifter linkage bushings and check the Tech manual.

If your bottom bushing has perished, you should be able to see the linkage rod poking out under the car. If you move shifter it should also move a bit. This end slides on a post on the trans. You can slip it back on and the see if gear selector is firm again. If so, find a way to clamp it on for a temporary fix. I used a mini clamp from a battery charger and good old duct tape. It just needs to be secure on the post. E-mail Dave Gallon and he should be able to get you a couple bushings quickly for about 10 bucks I think. Good luck.

[Intex]

I put the car in Park, and I can push it forward and backward. Evidently it is not in gear.
What could be the cause of this??

[Intex]

James, Thank you for the info. I looked under the car, but am not sure exactly what I am looking for, and exactly where to look. Can this be repaired under the car? The carpeting is new, and I think they glued it down to the tunnel. so this might be very difficult to tear up to get to from above.
I have read the tech notes, but still am a bit lost.
I do not relish the idea of having the car towed to the shop ($$) then pay there exhorbitant rates ($$)
Thanks

[jeffc280sl]

Intex,

Here is a diagram of the automatic linkage.

[Intex]

James and Jeff:
Thanks again.
I have un-done the beautiful carpet job the upholstery guys did, and removed all the shift lever assy. You were RIGHT. The bushing had completely broken off.
I will order a new one , who is Dave Gallon?? I had been dealing with Buds Benz, is that a good source??
What I dont understand is how to change the bushing on the other side of the linkage rod, how do you get to it??
Also a good time to change the new gear shift plastic that was broken upon installation. It came sort of yellowish, is there a source for white ones?
Thanks

[jeffc280sl]

I'm not that familar with the auto trans linkage.  Mine has a manual transmission.  I hope this next diagram helps.

[J. Huber]

Hi Intex. Jeff's last photo is perfect to illustrate the situation. You will need just two of the small white nylon bushings. Bud's has them for sure -- Dave G. is another supplier who happens to be a member here as well. Very knowledgeable about our cars -- I recommend him highly.

Probably good to change out both -- they are pressed into the eyelets (at each end of the rod) -- a trick is to microwave them in a cup of water to soften them a little.

What I would do is crawl under the car and find the lower bushing -- if its still on the trans. post, you will see condition of bushing. It just slides off the post. You already did the hard part of getting to top one. Good luck.

and number 9 in the diag. is the lever mechanism that inhibits starting -- it like move out of place when the bushing gave out.

[Intex]

In addition to the plastic bushing on the end of the shift linkage rod, are there more bushings to replace in the gear shift gate assy that is shown in the attached pix?

Also do you change the bushing (if there is one) at the other end of the gear linkage rod, other than the one shown in the attached pix?

[J. Huber]

I would think that the upper and lower linkage rod bushes are the only ones you need to do. Unless the shift gate itself is beat-up, I'd do these first. They are the ones that fail and prevent shifting.

There are two -- one at the transmission and one at the shifter.

[Dave Gallon]

It is clear that the starter failure is caused by the neutral safety switch disabling the starter. It is not difficult to disconnect the cable that operates the neutral safety switch and manually place it in a position that will enable the starter. However, once you do that, you have no way to select a gear. It is likely that the shift linkage is not currently in neutral or park or the starter would run. That means as soon as you start the engine, the car will want to start rolling either forward or backward. It is possible with the aid of an assistant to slide under the car (if you are slim) while your assistant is tightly (!) holding the brake and manually place the transmission in position 4 ("drive"). That would allow you to drive the car to a shop for attention. (I actually did this on our 280SEL 4.5 to get it home once.) However, I can't recommend it for the faint of heart. The bushing repair needs to be carried out entirely from below the car and while possible, would be most difficult without elevating it at least a bit. (Do NOT consider sliding under the car with the car's service jack holding up the car - a very dangerous and bad idea!) By the way, the bushings are 112 268 01 50, MB USA list is $3.50 each, my price is $2.58.

[bpossel]

As Dave mentions, the neutral safety switch may be your issue with engine turning over or not...

When you get that solved and start to work on the bushings, replace the upper and lower bushings on the shift rod itself.

Then if your shifter, shift gate is sloppy (doesnt hold firmly to the left side of the gate when in a selected gear position) then it may be time to replace the bushings in the shift gate itself.  Refer to the Tech Manual for instructions.  I was amazed how nicely my shifter worked after I completed the replacement of the bushings in the shift gate.

Good luck,
Bob

[Intex]

Thanks,
I am still not clear if you can change the second bushing on the shift linkage from inside the car, or if it has to be done underneath the car??

[jeffc280sl]

You must go underneath the car to change that bushing.

[Intex]

Is there anyway to change the bushing from underneath without jacking the car up? Without power to drive onto the ramps we have, I have no way to push the car onto the ramps, and yes, I will NOT go under with just the tire changing jack.
Any ideas??

Also, Are the letters on the SHift Cover Plate supposed to be painted black, or are they left just indented chrome.?

[waqas]

A hydraulic jack and a pair of jack stands would be very useful for a case like this.

If you have these items (or you can borrow them):

• Make sure the hand-brake is applied. As an added precaution, place bricks behind and in front of the rear tyres.
• Place the hydraulic jack under the center of the front sub-frame and raise the car.
• Place the pair of jack-stands such that there is one under each lower A-arm, directly under the lower spring perch.
• Lower the car down until the car is securely supported by the jack-stands.
• Removal is the reverse.

These three items will allow you to safely perform many jobs under the car. If you choose to purchase them, I would recommend a pair of good quality jack-stands (Craftsman or better).