Checklist for pulling an engine

[Mark280SL]

I thought about doing this a while back but time would not allow and life got in the way..... I really want to pull my engine and send it off to metric to have it done right and while its out clean up the engine compartment as it deserves.

I'm thinking if I develop a good checklist it will help me dive into it, otherwise I will over think, not do anything, and this will drag on another year,  I always do well with a plan! I've searched the forum and only found things here and there most of which were from 2004, I know the obvious like taking a lot of photos, labeling things, plastic bags and containers for the small parts etc.... I found some good posts about removing the hood but I want to develop it a little more so I have something in an orderly fashion, I see the section in the BBB on this as well but I think that was written more for a shop mechanic that lives that kind of thing every day, not a weekend mechanic. I looked in the Technical manual under removal and installation of the engine and to my surprise nothing was there. I pulled engines when I was in my early 20s so I know I can do this but that was 30 years ago and I've forgotten a lot although I still have a lot of tools and like to buy more if i can use them now and down the line, lm a firm believer in the old saying you can never have enough tools (or is that toys)

To those of you that have pulled engines from this car can you offer any tips on what I need to remove in what order?, what I need to watch out for?, special tools or supplies I should have at the ready?, should I buy a leveler?, do I need to worry about damaging anything when I remove the fi pump or anything else for that matter?....that kind of stuff, I know about the baggies and lots of photos :-)  if I end up assembling a good list I'll be glad to post if in the Tech Manual in the blank spot to share for those who come later.

Comments welcome!

[ja17]

Hello,

You will find a lot of opinions.  Some like to pull engine and transmission with the front suspension out the bottom!  Most like pulling the engine only.  Many like removing the engine and transmission as a unit.

If the engine is being removed for tear down, I prefere removing the cylinder head, then removing the engine and transmission as a unit. My reasoning here is that the head is coming off anyway and while in the car you have a nice stable work station. In addition, after the head is off everything else is much easier to access.

[jeffc280sl]

Removing the head as Joe suggests would get the intake and exhaust manifolds off and I would think make the engine a lot easier to remove with less potential for damaging fenders on the way out.  If you have ever tried to remove the cylinder head cover you will know how tightly fit the engine is to the fire wall, specifically the hood release bracket.  I don't know if you have a manual or automatic transmission but I know the manual transmission and bell housing are pretty straight forward to remove.  That way the engine can be lifted out more vertically.

[georgem]

Gentlemen,

Lets slow down a little.

There are several things to go on the task list prior to getting into whether we take the head off first or not. As far as I`m concerned, number one on the list is; 1. ensure there is at least a slab of beer in the fridge.................2. A radio playing mellow rock,.............3. what mates you have available to come and help, ..............4.figure out what TV shows you need to record while you are locked in battle with the engine...............there are probably a few more as well - you might like to suggest a few.. THEN, and only then, do you need to start worrying about heads or bonnets or with or without gearbox.

Gee, come on fellas, life has certain priorities...........

BTW, for those non Aussies, a slab is a common way of describing a carton of small bottles (stubbies) or cans of beer, normally 2 dozen. Please don`t confuse this with the term a Carton of Beer. This would obviously be referring to a cardboard carton of one dozen large bottles or tallies. Clear?



Cheers

George

[w113dude]

I agree with Greorge 100%
Good on yu mate!

[George Des]

When I pulled my engine several years ago, I removed all the ancillaries including the exhaust and intake manifolds, air cleaner, FI pump and most of what is under the hood to give me a clear view of the lift. I also removed the head to further lighten the lift. Unlike Joe, I disconnected the transmission so it was a relatively light load to move slighly forward up and out. When I replaced the engine, I did so with the head and FI attached since this was much easier to do with the engine on the stand. The connection between the transmission and engine was somewhat of a challenge though because the shafts need to line up perfectly to mate the two. I did not need a leveler even though I had one on hand. Hope this helps.

George Des

[lurtch]

Hello Mark,

Nice timing for posting this message! - - - I am just on the cusp of pulling my engine out. I was able to acquire a spare engine last year and had it rebuilt this summer.
A couple of thoughts:

1) checklists can easily become far to detailed which tends make them less useful. i.e. naming every tool, every nut size, every bracket and clamp.

2) much preferred, I would suspect, might be an overall less specific type of checklist. More of a "make-sure-you-did-this" type of approach.

I think in general those of us who own, work on and love these cars have much more mechanical aptitude than the usual car owner.

More Later,  Larry in CA

[saygold]

I recently pulled my engine, and will be installing it in the near future.  I removed the head and manifolds first to determine what was wrong with the engine, but I am glad they were off.   It gave me more room when the engine cleared the front of the car.
I removed the engine complete with manual transmission.  I used the following equipment:
•   I  bought two rolls of vinyl with backing from Pep Boys (advertised as a spill protector) which I cut up and used as fender covers – about $11 each roll
•   2-ton lift (Torin - $160 on sale at Pep Boys)
•   Leveler (Torin - $35 at Pep Boys – this worked great)
•   1-ton hydraulic pump (complete with jackstands – I have this already from Sears – about $50 on sale)
•   ½ - ton hydraulic pump (used under transmission when removing the engine (Harbor Freight – about $10)
•   Engine stand – 1000 lb (from Harbor Freight – on sale for $50)
•   Socket for Transmission Lock nut – (from Samstag – about $50; I also made one from a 1 3/16 deep socket – took about 2 hours and a lot of hacksaw and filing work)
•   27 mm deep socket – Sears – about $10 – used for turning the crankshaft
•   A good torque wrench – I have an older Sears model that was very helpful  with a ½-inch drive
•   I used some M10 – 1.50 by 100 mm bolts to support the transmission/bell housing  when removing it from the engine block to protect the transmission input shaft– mine was very “tight” and I had to lever the bell housing from the block
•   Normal metric wrenches and ratchet/socket sets
•   Handmade tool to compress the valve springs to remove the split collets (started with 1” square tube from Home Depot – used the tube with holes in the sides that was available – Home Depot also supplied a thinner tube that was too weak.  I know – the first one bent rather than compressing the spring)
•   Central Forge seal puller (Harbor Freight – about $8 – with arm for hammering seal and pilot bearing bearing)
•   Special tools, such as piston ring expander (about $6)and ring compressor (about $12)
•   I got some large plastic boxes from Walmart to put the various parts as they came apart, such as the transmission, etc.  I used one that was as big as the engine block, and I put it under the block when I was cleaning it. 
•   I already had a clutch alignment tool (plastic) previously – I don't remember the cost of this tool.
•   I took a lot of digital photos while the engine was removed and dismantled.  It sure helped when I started putting the parts back together.  I also used a numbering system on the electrical wiring as they were disconnected.

I chose the 2-tonne lift to allow removing the engine/transmission from the front of the vehicle.   I did not try to remove it from the side – has anybody tried this?
      
I might have missed some of the tools that were or are required, but this could be a starting point.   

Ken Deter
66 230SL (euro, 4-speed)

[Mark280SL]

I have to admit this one gave me a good laugh, well done George.

Gentlemen,

Lets slow down a little.

There are several things to go on the task list prior to getting into whether we take the head off first or not. As far as I`m concerned, number one on the list is; 1. ensure there is at least a slab of beer in the fridge.................2. A radio playing mellow rock,.............3. what mates you have available to come and help, ..............4.figure out what TV shows you need to record while you are locked in battle with the engine...............there are probably a few more as well - you might like to suggest a few.. THEN, and only then, do you need to start worrying about heads or bonnets or with or without gearbox.

Gee, come on fellas, life has certain priorities...........

BTW, for those non Aussies, a slab is a common way of describing a carton of small bottles (stubbies) or cans of beer, normally 2 dozen. Please don`t confuse this with the term a Carton of Beer. This would obviously be referring to a cardboard carton of one dozen large bottles or tallies. Clear?



Cheers

George

[Mark280SL]

Thank you Joe, I hadn't thought of  removing the head first, I was thinking I would remove the engine and trans as a unit with the head on but it certainly makes sense considering it will provide for much easier access if I remove it first.

Hello,

You will find a lot of opinions.  Some like to pull engine and transmission with the front suspension out the bottom!  Most like pulling the engine only.  Many like removing the engine and transmission as a unit.

If the engine is being removed for tear down, I prefere removing the cylinder head, then removing the engine and transmission as a unit. My reasoning here is that the head is coming off anyway and while in the car you have a nice stable work station. In addition, after the head is off everything else is much easier to access.

[Mark280SL]

Thanks Larry and let me know how your effort goes, I agree on not making things too detailed when it comes to the checklist, I suppose its a fine line.

Hello Mark,

Nice timing for posting this message! - - - I am just on the cusp of pulling my engine out. I was able to acquire a spare engine last year and had it rebuilt this summer.
A couple of thoughts:

1) checklists can easily become far to detailed which tends make them less useful. i.e. naming every tool, every nut size, every bracket and clamp.

2) much preferred, I would suspect, might be an overall less specific type of checklist. More of a "make-sure-you-did-this" type of approach.

I think in general those of us who own, work on and love these cars have much more mechanical aptitude than the usual car owner.

More Later,  Larry in CA

[70mb280se]

I removed my engine and auto trans as one unit from my 280se about 2 months ago.  I first removed the exhaust and the a/c compressor radiator and alternator.  It is pretty straight forward if you pay attention and take lots of pictures.  I found that the food handling gloves over surgical style gloves for picture taking helped.  I work in the surgical gloves and when I need the camera I place the clean food prep gloves over the dirty gloves so I don't ruin the camera!  The 111 cars have more room at the back of the engine compartment then the 113's.  Therefore..maybe removing the head or atleast the valve cover first would help.  The hoist leveler is a life saver with these cars.

Good luck...plan on around 11 hours for you first time!

Eric

[glenn]

Couple of problems I've had.  Hoist- head room and hydraulic pump problems.  Manifolds-rusted solid to the down pipes at the three bolt joint.  If the engine is frozen, you have to take tranny with it.   

I think you should take it out from the bottom---Video it all for us to see. .. Always wanted to try it.

[ja17]

One item which should be on everyone's list is to treat the delicate capilary tube going to the engine temperature gauge gently! If damaged you will need an expensive new gauge.

[Naj ✝︎]

One item which should be on everyone's list is to treat the delicate capilary tube going to the engine temperature gauge gently! If damaged you will need an expensive new gauge.

On all but the last 70/71 280 engines, you can just crack loose the capillary nut, then undo the side pod from the head and unscrew the pod while you hold the capillary nut steady. The nut will most likely be stuck to the capillary bulb.

naj