Trunk floor replacement, pictures?

[star63]

I have now removed the trunk floor (3 pieces). That area has earlier been repaired by some previous owner and I'm wondering if the structure is correct. Would anyone have a cross sectional drawing illustrating how the three new pieces should be joined together? And how do they attach to the frame piece below...

Thanks

[w113dude]

I did mine by punching holes 3/8" in dia. all around the edges (with a hand held hole puncher) the new pieces about 3" apart from one another and welded the panels to a very clean frame surface, this way it looks as close as possible replicating factory look & it works well, there are some tight corners that becomes a bit tough to grind afterwords but i think it's has the best results.

[star63]

Is the frame surface below the trunk floor totally flat? Should all the three floor pieces be at the same height (flush) or is there a "step" somewhere?

[w113dude]

There is no step it's flush, there should be about a gap of 1/4" or so between each panel, if you are using good reproduction pieces they should fit just right. I would also pay a bit attention with the right hand piece, when welding make sure the floor jack fits correctly before finishing completely.

[Witt]

......once you get your new floor in do yourself a favour and DONT PUT THE RUBBER MAT BACK ! ( see a different post on this site)
It does collect moisture under it and rust will start again.......it happened to me.......

CHEERS !
WITT !

[star63]

Thank you for the info.

......once you get your new floor in do yourself a favour and DONT PUT THE RUBBER MAT BACK ! ( see a different post on this site)
It does collect moisture under it and rust will start again.......it happened to me.......

My plan is to galvanize the panels before welding them in. Not quite original but more durable, I hope...

[SteveK]

Keeping them from warping during the galvanizing process may be very difficult. I suspect it would create more issues than it will prevent.   

[star63]

Keeping them from warping during the galvanizing process may be very difficult. I suspect it would create more issues than it will prevent.   

That is my concern, too. But since the floor panels are almost flat I would assume that they can be straightened out before welding. If it works I'll do the same with the other floor panels...and maybe even the stiffener box inside the front fender

[RickM]

If you find that galvanizing is not ideal then consider using POR15 as the base coat. This product will encapsulate the metal and protect for many years.
Then finish with the appropriate color topcoat.

In fact, I'd do this even if it was galvanized and in a particularly susceptible area.

[graphic66]

Make sure to follow the directions for POR15. If you coat it with POR15 you need to next paint it with a tie coat for the regular paint to adhere to the POR15. Also if you paint clean metal with POR15 you must first etch it with POR15 metal ready or it wont stick to the smooth metal. POR15 is really a system and you need to follow there directions and use compatible materials. The stuff works great, but it wont come off your hands, wear gloves.
 

[Mark280SL]

Sounds like a good technique, do you have any photos of the finished product?

I did mine by punching holes 3/8" in dia. all around the edges (with a hand held hole puncher) the new pieces about 3" apart from one another and welded the panels to a very clean frame surface, this way it looks as close as possible replicating factory look & it works well, there are some tight corners that becomes a bit tough to grind afterwords but i think it's has the best results.

[w113dude]

The trunk of the car has been primed, not sure if you can see the spot weldings, I'll see if I can send some images in the next few days.