Hood off: Radiator/Fan out. Anything I should do Now?

[JMarentette]

Hey Guys,

I just took the hood off and removed the radiator and fan.  I did this to remove an old AC bracket that has always annoyed me.  So while the car is in this disassembled state should I take advantage and do anything else while I'm at it? I believe I have some leaking bolts and was going to remove and seal those.  I did some modest cleaning but it is still rather oil encrusted. Still not sure of the source.  Should I have the radiator pressure tested or anything just because it is out of the car? I am sure you guys will have some good suggestions.

Thanks
Jeff

[SteveK]

When I was in a similar situation last year after I cleaned everything up I replaced all the belts and hoses up front and also replaced the water pump.  You can do all of that yourself for about $200.  I also decided to have the radiator re-cored which I would only recommend if you think you might have an issue. (In my case I have a late 280SL engine and wanted to enhance the cooling)   All in all a number of fun little projects once you get rid of the old grease!

[jameshoward]

I would concur fully in the water pump. They're pretty cheap and if you have no idea when it was last done it might be worth doing. On the other hand, it's not exactly a hard job so you could just give it a thorough look over (check for seepage from th tell-tale hole) and leave well alone. If you do go ahead, a pump is about $50 (at least it was about that in Euros). There are 3 varieties, and it wasn't until I got to the third one that I found out why it really pays to do your homework before making assumptions! If you do change the pump, and it is an easy job, change the tiny metal pipe and the two (I think) banjo bolts in the same area. There's lots of info on the site about how to do it. I think I wrote it up, also, and I'm sure the wiki has an entry or 2.

Final thing you could do, again if unsure about the condition of your car, is get someone to pressure test the radiator as you suggest. I had mine done and it fell to pieces. I would have put it back in the state it was in, which would have eventually led to disaster. It looked fine at the time but the insides were shot. $500 rebuild later (ouch) and all seems well.

I wish I'd replaced my viscous fan clutch when I was there, but didn't bother.

I'm sure there are other things people will suggest, but that's my list.

JH

[JMarentette]

Well after another day "playing" in the garage, I have a couple more questions.  First thanks for the input on additional tasks to complete.  I am finding Water Pumps prices have increased, I will make some calls tomorrow.  I will attach a "borrowed" picture from Bob (bpossel) , mine is not nearly as pretty: I have boxed two areas.  First is a open bolt hole.  Mine is also empty. Should it be or could this be a source of my oil leak?  Secondly, what is this outlet?  I do not have one on my engine is it related to manual transmission?  And finally, has anyone used a "home" steam cleaner with any success in cleaning the engine?

Thanks again
Jeff

[bpossel]

Hi Jeff,

Not sure what the first hole is for?  I believe you will find that it does not go all the way through the casing, so should'nt be a source of any leaks.  The connection point in question is for later models that had emission systems.  This connection is for a plastic vent tube that connects that point to the plastic vapor tank in the trunk.  Earlier models vented the gas fumes out the rear and into the atmosphere.  This method vents the gas vapors back into the engine.
Bob

[Naj ✝︎]

Any oil leaks round the crank damper/pulley?

naj

[JMarentette]

Thanks Bob, Makes sense mine is a Euro and does not have the US emissions. and thanks for the highjacked picture!

Naj, Well that's the problem, with all the oil and grime on the engine I cant tell where the leaks are starting.  I notice there is an oil seal on the crankshaft pulley and damper, is that what your thoughts are?  And if so, how big a task is that to replace that seal?

Thanks
Jeff

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, Jeff,

Yes, I was thinking about the crank seal. If you do a search, there are enough discussions about changing it.

I would also change the O ring seal on the timing chain tensioner. Sitting next to the exh manifold, they get thoroughly toasted and go very hard.

naj

[al_lieffring]

an item to check for oil leaks at the front of the engine that is often overlooked and has been mentioned before in other posts it to remove the valve cover and tighten the 6mm bolt (5mm allen head)  that is down below the chain idler hiding in the oil reserve for the chain tensioner, This bolt hole in the block is drilled through and will drip oil behind the waterpump housing.

[Naj ✝︎]

Also change the short hose with an elbow.

naj

[jeffc280sl]

I agree with those that recomend changing belts, hoses and the water pump.  Along those line I would also have a close look at the power steering pump and check for leaks.  I have not done this but others have replaced the power steering pump seals.  It's just another good preventative maintenance type task.  It's also a good time to clean in and around the battery tray and air cleaner housing.  If you take them out you can get both cleaned thoroughly and slap on a coat of paint.  You can also take out the grill pieces and paint them.  You may want to paint the timing marks on the harmonic balancer.

[JMarentette]

Naj,

"Also change the short hose with an elbow"

Please explain what you mean here?

Jeff

[jeffc280sl]

There is a 3 or 4 inch elbow hose that comes out the top left of the water pump.  Now is a good time to change it.

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, Jeff,

Some pictures of what has been discussed:

There is an unused hole on the block front
Elbow hose
The head bolts Al was talking about checking

naj

[JMarentette]

In the process of replacing crank seal and already tightend the 6mm hex and added thread sealer.  Thanks for all the help

Jeff

[ja17]

Hello,

That first blank threaded hole remains a blank threaded hole. In the 50s  this hole was usedin the MB ponton sedans for the front right motor mount support ! This early six cylinder Mercedes ohv engine block is the platform from which the W130 engines evolved.