Author Topic: Valve Cover  (Read 3040 times)

isofast

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Valve Cover
« on: March 17, 2004, 05:40:26 »
Can anyone give me some do and donts when removing and replacing valve cover? I have read threads regarding jacking bell housing to increase clearance at firewall I also have read on this forumn or somewhere else about being gentle with fuel injection linkage at the fuel injection pump...I can plainly see that this linkage must be moved a little to sneak the cover out. I have once moved the linkage just enough to replace a worn bushing on intake manifold side but always was careful not to move the pump side. I would hate to have to recalibrate the pump. Any thoughts for the driveway mechanic?

First Place AACA Show Winner 350SL July 2003
I love low mile Mercedes.
1969 280 4spd Papyrus White

n/a

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Re: Valve Cover
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2004, 11:34:41 »
For me it was fairly simple. Yes you need to jack up the bellhousing to get the clearance. As I recall remove the two nuts on the intake that hold the linkage,and there are two nuts on the left side by the ignition wire bracket. Then just carefully pop off all the linkage rods from the ball sockets. Disconnect the brake vacuum and breather line(i just took off the rubber boot at the valve cover). Hope this helps

Cees Klumper

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Re: Valve Cover
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2004, 15:03:00 »
I am sure you can just remove the linkage and put it back when you're done, without disturbing any of the settings to the air/fuel mixture and other injection settings. Just don't change the length of any of the rods.
If you have to jack up the engine to remove the cover then I would guess your engine and/or transmission mounts are worn. I can get the cover off without jacking up anything, no problem. I put in new mounts.

It is a good idea to replace the three washers underneath the bolts that keep the valve cover in place, if you have oil seepage there. Also, I understand that the intricate, big rubber gasket does not need to be replaced unless it has become hard/brittle. If it's supple, there should be no need to replace it.

Final tip (courtesy of Joe Alexander's son Jamie who told me this last summer when I was in Ohio): don't overtighten the 3 nuts upon re-assembly. If you do, this will distort the support brackets that the bolts go into, possibly to the point where the bracket(s) touch (actually grind) the camshaft ("now where is that noise coming from?")!

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'69 white 280 SL automatic
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
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