Author Topic: The old cold start problem  (Read 3263 times)

Nic J

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The old cold start problem
« on: August 28, 2010, 11:42:46 »
I have had my car in the garage for the linkages to be set up and the CSS and WRD to be checked over as I have been having problems getting the car to start when cold.  The mechanic thinks that the car is loosing fuel pressure overnight and hence the first start problems and needs a new set of injectors to rectify the problem.

It takes quite a lot of cranking (several turns of the key and a lot of praying) to get the engine to fire and then you have to keep the revs up for about 30 seconds or it will stall when drive is engaged.  Once the car has run for about 2 minutes it will idle perfectly and will re-start with no problem.  However once running there is little power below 2000rpm and you have to use quite a lot of throttle to pull away then back off the throttle when she revs up to 2000rpm (hot and cold).  I don't think this is normal and says to me there may be a mixture issue?

The battery on the car seems quite old and it sounds quite laboured when trying to turn the engine, I think I will replace this today anyway.  I also have not tested the CSV or the relays yet as the mechanic assures me these are functioning (to be tested later today).

I am no expert at car mechanics but there seems something wrong here, has any one had similar experience or is it a case of check the starting tour and if that fails get a second opinion?

Kind regards,

Nic

ja17

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Re: The old cold start problem
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2010, 13:40:39 »
Hello Nik,


Sounds like it could be the WRD may be stuck in the warm position, fuel starvation or the ignition points are closing up.

Make sure all the tuning items are fine first (points, battery etc). You must have a clean fuel supply with adequate pressure and volume (make sure the fuel filter, is clean).  If the main fuel filter is dirty, check the main fuel tank screen and the intake screen on the electric fuel pump.  Run a fuel pressure and volume check if there are any doubts about fuel delivery. Yes, check the starting aids (intake valve and the pump solenoid).  Also you should monitor the WRD during the warm up cylcle to make sure it is not stuck open or closed.

What year is your W113 and what is the recent history?

 
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

ctaylor738

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Re: The old cold start problem
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2010, 15:23:25 »
I have this exact problem, and probably need a pump rebuild.  My WRD is working but the pump is not supplying additional fuel like it should.

But in addtion to Joe's prescription  a couple of things helped me.

- take the CSV off and reconnect it and make sure it is spraying when you crank the starter.  My electrics were good, but no spray

- be sure your battery and charging system are in good shape.  See my post from last week on this.  A fully-charged battery really helped the idle right after start but unfortunately not the 2K-3K cold running problem.
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA