Warm Running Device Stuck

[Jordan]

I took apart my WRD as I knew it was sticking (I am assuming this is the valve/housing just under the thermostat housing as part of the coolant line, drivers side of engine block).  I sat the entire piece in a lubricant bath for the last day but the valve will still not move unless I hit it with a hammer or pull on the lower knob at the bottom with a pair of pliers.  Is there some other method I can get it moving or do I need a new valve?  Can I remove the valve as I notice there is a little nib on the side of the housing just above the valve or do I need a whole new part with housing and valve.  I removed the screw at the top of the valve to get lubricant inside as well but it will not move freely.  Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Marcus 

[menesesjesse]

Jordon
I believe the tech manual has a whole section on the WRD and it is broken down as well with pictures.  Good luck with the break down.
Jesse

[Jordan]

Jesse, yes I have read thru the tech manual and various threads on the topic.  I have already taken apart the WRD except I am unable to get the slide valve to move in the housing.  How do I get it out?  It will move it I bang on it with a hammer so should I extract it that way.  I don't wnat to damage anything if there is another way.  There is also that nib on the inside wall of the housing just above the slide valve which I don't want to damage.  Does it retract when the slide valve hits it.
Thanks
Marcus

[jeffc280sl]

Sounds like your slide valve is binding.  The only way to remove it is by pushing it from the bottom side.  I would try using a brass pin and lightly tap it out.  I don't know what you mean by aq little nub.  I have my spare in my hands and I don't see anything like what you're talking about.  Can you take a pic?

[ja17]

Hello,

If I recall, the early 230SL WRD is different.  A pin has to be removed so the 14mm test bolt with obstruction can be removed and then the piston can be slid out.

[Brian Davidson]

Hello Jordan. if you turn the 14mm test bolt through 180 degrees this should allow the slide to move upwards. this device was to enable the engine to operate normally when the engine is hot in the event of heat feeler failure. Brian.

[Jordan]

Thanks all.  Unfortunately one of the PO broke off the end of the test bolt and it is nicely rusted into place and recessed into the opening.  Thus I cannot remove the valve.  I spent the last day and a half working the valve back and forth with a hammer and liberally applying lubricant, also applied heat as Dan had suggested.  Almost ready to quit when it suddenly started to slide with pressure from my fingers.   Cleaned it up, lubricated, applied high temp grease to the top to prevent coolant from entering the valve again and reinstalled.  Car started up first crank and sat idling at 800rpm.  Sure makes ones day when things finally work.