soft top challenges

[joes]

Hello all,
Tried closing the soft top for the first time but just can't get it to close.  I connected the 2 pins at the widshield first and tried to connect at the rear but it's too difficult to connect.  As much as I push down on it I still have about 1/2" to go.

It is a very new looking top and I suspect has been used very few times.  I realize that the cold temps here don't help my case but I wanted to store the car with the top in place if possible.  I also have those "soft top curls" I keep reading about.  I was thinking of trying to use some hot wet rags on the canvas or even some steam to try and stretch the canvas a little so i can get it to close but not quite sure.  Any suggestions would be great. 

Thanks in advance,
Joe.

[thelews]

I know it sounds painful, but you don't push the rear pin in to close, you SLAM it.  Make sure everything lines up OK and then give it a good whump.  Helps to have a fight with your wife first!

You can steam out the curls and yes, steam would loosen up the top fibers making it easier to close, as would the sun.

[J. Huber]

I can't tell from this post what model you have but with the 230s, you do back first, then the front. On mine, that last 1/2 inch to get pins into their holes takes a little muscle but then its all good.

RE: THE CURL -- I do a reverse squeeze on my curls before I drop the back, which corrects it pretty well. Doing this on way into storage also helps.

PS  I just figured out you have a 280! might try it anyway? or else, not sure.

[thelews]

Why would the top closure vary from the 230, 250 and 280?  I've always attached the front first on the 280 back in the 70s, on my 250 that I now have and it was the only way we could close the ORIGINAL top on my friend's 230 just this summer.  Lock the front, slam the back.  Always worked for me.

[dtuttle123]

John -

I use the 'mad at my wife' technique also to slam the soft top pin!  It's also in the technical manual.

There is an adjustment on the soft top frame that will give you an extra 1/4" or so.  I usually pull up the roof and leave it it the sun to heat up.  Also try half engaging the two front latches, then push the rear pin.  The 'half' engagement gives you an extra 1/4".

The soft top is like my business suits - when I leave them in the closet, they seem to shrink.

[Jordan]

Joe, on my 230SL I also do the back first and then pull the front.  I do it from outside the car, first one side and then the other.  I don't turn the handle fully when the first one goes in until the second side has been inserted.  I actually use the frame to pull it forward.  Still requires a bit of muscle.  It might help if you did it inside a heated garage if you can.  Good luck.
Marcus

[Larry & Norma]

I put a new soft top on last summer, it definately has to stretch before it becomes fairly easy to put up.
I use the same method as 'Jordan' and do the back first then pull the front from outside the car one side at a time.
I could do it from the inside if my son helped from the passenger seat.

[thelews]

One of the reasons I suspect that you latch the front first, is so that you don't scratch the hell out of the chrome on the top of the windshield frame trying to get the top pins in.  Post early 250 SL it's less of a problem because the chrome isn't there, but damage can still be done.  You can't hurt the back with the pin as long as everything lines up.

[J. Huber]

Why would the top closure vary from the 230, 250 and 280?  I've always attached the front first on the 280 back in the 70s, on my 250 that I now have and it was the only way we could close the ORIGINAL top on my friend's 230 just this summer.  Lock the front, slam the back.  Always worked for me.

Well, can't say why they are different but I believe the manuals for the respective models indicate this difference too. Can somebody with a 280 manual confirm? I know what the 230SL manual says -- back then front. It is shown quite nicely in the Mercedes video   http://www.sl113.org/Video.html

What does the 250 suggest?

Personally, if I do it the other way, I am then looking at an awkward cpr move on the back pin. A lot of leverage would probably do it but the recommended way is much easier. Also -- My rear section does not have the ability to be slammed down from the folded position. It folds down easily enough but not in a floppy way -- there is some resistance perhaps from the wires on the sides... (Anybody know what I am talking about?)

Sorry Joe -- still no help for the 280 -- sunshine can help the stretch. And once on, try and get in a habit of putting the top up briefly throughout the year. Its tempting in the warm months to keep it down but I bring it out once in a while. Good luck.

[thelews]

I'll look in my manual tonight.

As long as you're putting your top up like the video, get us a movie of you driving like they do in the video on the track.

I don't close the rear from the full, locked upright position.  I latch the front, then let down the rear and then raise slightly and slam.

FWIW, I close my hood by lowering it to the catch, then lifting it and letting it drop to close.  I don't push on the center and dent it.

The trunk, I lower to the catch and then gently push closed with the chrome handle.

[49er]

Here is a page from my 280's owner's manual that goes over the procedure for opening/closing the soft top. It recommends securing the windshield latches first. I have always done the opposite and has always worked just fine. My 42 year old top is still tight as a drum and takes a bit of muscle to pull it forward over the front pins.  I agree with James on dropping the hood and pressing down on the trunk lid handle. Aluminum is very unforgiving.

John

PS. sorry about the size of the photo. I am still  trying to figure things out.

[thelews]

James?, here.

Try closing the top the right way.  You'll never go back.  Thanks for the instructions, now resized.

[J. Huber]

Hey John, I coulda said it too... (although maybe not. I actually switched from dropping to pushing down the hood over the years -- It doesn't take much to lock and I usually have a soft towel in hand) Agree on the trunk though.

Still like to know which way the 250 user manual swings....

[49er]

My apologies to James and John,

the other John

[thelews]

250 SL calls for a rear pin slam.  My car is early.  Methinks there is no difference in top mechanisms, just that MB wised up to the better way to close the top after experience with the 230.

[J. Huber]

My apologies to James and John,

the other John

No problem John. Happen to have a brother named John by the way. Lots of that goes on.

And John L. Thanks for confirmation. I suspect you are correct that the new version of instructions replaced the old...I am curious though why mine works better back to front in keeping with manual... Can that last 1/2 inch or so to reach the back pin be adjusted?

[Iconic]

One more point that I don't believe was covered.
I remove my watch and ring prior to slamming to engage the rear pin.
Mine needs to be slammed with quite a bit of force, so removal of jewelry lessens the chances of damaging the paint if I slip.
Mine is a 280.
Oh, by the way, as far as the top curls go, I started tucking them in when I fold the top down (after some reading on this forum) and the top has been snug and proper ever since. Thank you forum.    The curls are really not attractive and the solution is so simple (at least for this original 40 year old top.)

Joes, Are you sorry you asked ?   

[joes]

WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!

Here are the steps I took:

1.  Have a good ol fight with the wife to get my juices flowing.
2.  loosen the front pins.
3.  remove my watch as per one member's advice.
4.  make sure the rear pin is alligned.
5.  Slam the *#@%&^  crap out of the top until it sets in place.

I love this forum!  tx to all and to all a good night.
Joe.

[thelews]

I did not have luck with folding the corners under.  It raised the top too much in the boot and put too much force on the boot lid when I closed it to the point it no longer sat tight on the rubber seal and flush with the mating pieces.

Good going Joe.  Yes, I think loosening the front latches one notch is a good idea to help ease the rear pin latch for those who have trouble.

[Richard Madison]

At least on the 280 and maybe all models, the rear box for the soft top center pin can be adjusted and moved up...may help get the pin locked in.

The rectangular box is held to the car with four bolts. Loosen these bolts, slide the box up as far as it will go, then tighten the bolts.

Richard M, NYC.

[kayemoxon]

250sl erecting the hood
My hand book clearly states front first and rear last. It definitely helps to only 'half engage' the front pins initially which will give you a little extra to play with. The retaining box which accepts the rear hood pin can be adjusted (as described by the earlier post) and the 'slam' is more of a CPR, one hand placed on top of the other firm sharp push (this could be a problem for shorter owners though, I am a 5' 11''  160lb lady and I can do this unassisted) the extra height allows you to get your weight over the pin.
I've never tried the back first /front last method because I am sure it wouldn't work for my car.
Kaye

Moderator addition: "Hood" is the UK term for a USA "Soft Top".

[TargaNfld]

Global Warming  will solve the " Curl " problem.

[Witt]

.....if you have problem engaging (slamming down....) the rear bow, the pin may not engage because the chrome trim around the receiving hole may be out of alignment.
First I adjusted the receiving "hook" mechanism all the way up, not to far otherwise it will touch the ST cover and don't work at all.

I removed that that chrome trim completely for the longest time only when putting up the soft top. After getting tired of removing and reinstalling that thing I did some more investigating:
It turned out that the chrome trim had a lot of wear on one side only, so I elongated the holes in the ST cover a bit and moved the chrome trim to clear the pin when slamming it down. Problem solved, hope this works for some of you guys as well.

CHEERS !
WITT !

[Norm]

T thought the variations in procedures was confusing so I finally went and pulled out my owners manual for my 66 230 and confirmed that the instructions for putting the soft top up advise to lock the rear pin first and then lock the front.  Yet, as noted, the earlier post shows the manual for the later model reverses that final step   .  Since I also have the DVD that introduces the 230 SL I watched it again and confirmed that the procedure is lock the rear first and then the front.  I also watched the Journeyman video in the video section (the link is in an above post)  

http://www.sl113.org/Video.html  (My DVD is  an edited version of the same video)

So.......

Does anyone know why they changed this procedure?

Norm

[badali]

I think some latch easier using one or the other.  I latch the front then loosen the handles leaving the front in but loose, then latch the pin.  I think trial and error to find out which works for your car is what you will have to do.
Brad