Approximate labor costs?

[blaudenbach]

I'm a new owner of a mint condition (2 owner) 64' 230sl however it needs new tires and has a bad pull when braking. I intend to make an investment over the winter months and have a full brake job front and rear, all shocks replaced, then alighment for the new tires. Any input on what range the labor should come in for this work?

[J. Huber]

Hey Blaud, Welcome to the site. I'll let the mechanics among us give you firm numbers but I can say its going to depend. First off, I'd try and find an independent German shop who has experience with 113s. That is critical. Dealers typically are not well-versed in the older cars so I'd steer clear of them (if your car lets you  ). Then there is the parts variable. In many cases, you will know more about parts availability and costs than you mechanic (because you will learn HERE!)... So some research will help nail down parts costs.

As for labor -- my memory tells me brakes are not bad -- but because you have shoes and drums it can add up. If your drums are not salvageable -- the cost will go way up. Mine were ok. According to a few old work orders, pads and new flexible hoses was about 2 hours labor. Another included two master cylinders and rear shoes and turning drums and e-brake cables. 5 hours. Now, once I had to hit the hip for a new brake servo -- again the cost was in the parts not the labor so much. So I guess its will depend on what you'll need. Big help huh?

Shocks are straightforward. Get Bilstein gas -- two hours tops I'd say. Before you proceed, I'd check subframe and engine mounts, doing all at same time makes sense and will make it handle like a dream. Alignment? 50-75? Just shooting from the hip -- wait for the wrenchies to chime in...

Good luck! Let's see some pics!

[blaudenbach]

James, thanks for the inpt. I've been researching parts cost and wanted some input on the labor. One question, on the brake parts are they readily available and easy for mechnic to locate or where would one go?

I need to load some pictures but I'm quite excited as I love the vehicle just need it to handle better and know it needs tires so planning on this more complete job. Thanks again and I may be back at you over the winter. Happy New Year!

[xcashewx]

if i remember correctly i paid around $500 in parts for a complete brake overhaul. (exc. booster/m.cylinder) it included new pads, rotors, caliper rebuild kit, all new rubber hoses, rear shoes relined and new wheel cylinders

i get all my brake parts/rubber parts from wholesale retailers one example is partsgeek.com, they are WAY cheaper than dealer  and most [brake] parts are still ATE originals if not newer FTE replacements.

like j huber said, make CERTAIN you change your subframe mounts if you do not know how old they are...after all,  you do want your engine to stay in your car when they (incorrectly) place the 4 post lift to raise the vehicle up. dont get sucked into those OEM mercedes mounts that are $400, the $118 febi bilsten subframe kit works like a dream

and if youre not the purist, go for polyurethane sway bar bushings. i noticed much less body roll in those highspeed corners. OEM sway bar link kit- $225, polyurethane kit - $25

[Richard S]

FWIW: Partsgeek seems to have a very spotty record if you check the internet.  Even the BBB gives them an "F" raiting.

[merrill]

for parts I have found that the MB classic center is useful. 

I have also used K&K (http://www.kkmfg.com/index.php) and Arizona Auto haus.  (http://www.autohausaz.com/)


I did all the labor on my 66. I replaced my brake lines (all metal and rubber) rear pistons and e brake pulley. Shocks all around and front sub frame mounts.

The brake work is not hard to do, if you have time just do it yourself.  (replacing front brake pads, calipers and rotors is easy to do.)
The shocks are even easier than the brakes.
The front sub frame mounts are a little trickier.  I did mine when I had the motor out.

Not sure if this helps of not

[xcashewx]

FWIW: Partsgeek seems to have a very spotty record if you check the internet.  Even the BBB gives them an "F" raiting.

ive used them 20+ times. good prices and quick shipping, in my book they get an "A".

[mait]

Most repair shops have a standard hourly rate. Therefore the important question is "How much time?"
My MB flat rate manual states:
     Shock Absorbers (All)  R&R  all models             1.8hrs

     Front Wheel Alignment. Check                        0.8hrs
     a) Adjust camber                                         0.8hrs                                       
     b)Adjust camber both wheels                         1.5hrs
     c)Adjust toe-in                                             0.3hrs
     d)Adjust caster                                            0.5hrs

     Rear wheel Camber Check                              0.3 hrs
     a)Rear Wheel camber. Adjust                         1.9hrs

     Brakes: This section goes on for 5 pages in my book with many detailed operations so your time
     and cost will really depend on what is found to need repair.

     I echo J. Huber's advice to find someone familiar with these cars. Brakes and shocks should be 
     easy and straightforward for any mechanic but alignment though similar to other cars of that era
     is a bit tricky.   

     Hope this helps  -  Mait
             
     

[ctaylor738]

I just finished a complete brake job on a 230SL.  I found that the lining of the rear shoes had delaminated from the metal on three of the four and the lining on the fourth was starting to come off.  I believe that the shoes  are now a dealer-only item to the tune of $342 apiece.  White Post Restorations in White Post VA will reline them for $60 apiece but you will need to have an understanding shop that will do the shipping and tie up space for the week or so it will take.

Not to be an advert, but I went this route and was very happy with the results.  They shoes were refinished with a baked-on enamel in the correct color.  I also had them rebuild the wheel cyiinders ($80 each).  They re-sleeve them with brass which (they say) reduces corrosion problems.