Author Topic: Tachometer removal  (Read 5602 times)

paults1

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Tachometer removal
« on: February 05, 2011, 20:53:37 »
I am having trouble removing the tach.  I have removed the sterring wheel, lower dash pad, bracket that holds the two electric plugs & removed the tach cable from the engine in order to have enough slack inside the dash.  I have removed the krunled knob from the "C" bracket on the back of the tach.   The "C" bracket is still tight on the housing, is this normal?  The tach is loose but seems to be stuck on the lower left side, it just won't side out.  What am I missing for the removal?  Also it would be nice if couild see a pic of the back side of the tach where all the connections are located.

Paul, '63 230SL

ja17

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Re: Tachometer removal
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2011, 22:18:02 »
Hello Paul,

Sounds like the "C" bracket is jambed or wedged in place.  You will need to try to grip it by one of the legs and move it up and down. It should pop loose. Try pushing inward on the instrument this could help. Be careful not to break the glass.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

J. Huber

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Re: Tachometer removal
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2011, 22:26:40 »
Just a thought -- did you unhook the light bulbs. That is the one step you didn't mention in your initial post. One of the bulbs protrudes into the bracket and could hold it onto tach.
James
63 230SL

paults1

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Re: Tachometer removal
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2011, 22:48:10 »
If I am able to free the bracket will the light bulb just pull out with the tach?

J. Huber

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Re: Tachometer removal
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2011, 23:20:01 »
Well, the bulb and its socket housing pulls out. One goes through the bracket, and the other slides next to it directly into the tach. (If I recall things correctly). One may be holding you up? although Joe's idea of the bracket stuck on makes sense too.
James
63 230SL

ja17

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Re: Tachometer removal
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2011, 01:30:19 »
Good thought James,

Yes I forgot about that one bulb that inserts through the bracket. As james has suggested, you will first need to pull both bulbs with holders out of the instrument and bracket. The bracket stays in behind the dash as the instrument is removed. Notice the brown ground wire with ring terminal is positioned under the thumb screw during re-assembly. Don't forget this or your tach will not light up when the lights are switched on.

I bet your glad you took the steering wheel off (makes job much easier).

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

paults1

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Re: Tachometer removal
« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2011, 17:46:10 »
Well with more blood on back of right hand, the Tach. is out.  Now for the center guage & then to the speedometer. Iam on this journey to replace the iginition switch.  Thanks for our help!!!
Regards, Paul

J. Huber

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Re: Tachometer removal
« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2011, 19:57:45 »
Good luck! Hate to say it but that was the easy one!  :D  There are some instructions here about cluster and speedo removal. Main thing with center cluster is mind the temperature capillary tube. It must be carefully unhooked and then not jostled around too much. Also Be Sure your battery is unhooked before you get much further...
James
63 230SL

ja17

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Re: Tachometer removal
« Reply #8 on: February 06, 2011, 22:58:17 »
Hello,

Keep track of those brown ground wires that attach to the back of the speedometer and tachometer. If you forget to hook one up during re-assembly, you[ll have to go back in there.

Most likely, with the steering wheel off, you can just pull the center gauge out far enough to unfasten the oil pressue line and then have enough room to work. If the you choose to remove the center gauge all together and  unlplug the wire harness.
I prefer to remove the water gauge from the cluster and leave it undisturbed in the dash. If I recall a couple of thumbscrews and several small slotted screws is all that needs to be unfastened to accomplish this. Don't start the engine with this cluster off or you will spray oil all over the car.

I am sure you'll be back with more questions soon, enough for you to contemplate for now.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback