Interior Door Panel Replacement

[J. Huber]

Hi. I am considering replacing my interior door panels. I will probably use the GAHH kit (about 350 for both sides in MB Tex). Has anyone used these specifically? My main question is -- does the hard pocket and arm rest portion just come as a loose piece that I have to have "stuffed" or covered? Anyone done this themselves or did they farm it out to upholstery shop? Thx.

[Rolf]

I am restoring my '66.The door kit came with new boards and the MB-tex stitched to go on, along with the covers, stitched for the arm rests. I also received some extra material for the hard pouches. I am having an upholstery put it all together.

[J. Huber]

Thanks Rolf. So are you saying the door skins come ready to go but not adhered to door? That would make up my mind to have it done at a shop. I tried my hand at "skinning" my kickpanels and glovebox... Let's just say some things are better left to professionals  As for the doors  -- I am a bit torn because my MB Tex is really still decent relative to my car. The problem is the inner boards have more curves than a Tahitian Hula dancer. Its to the point where the panel doesn't stay in the channels. They obviously took in water over the years. I have tried flattening them to no avail.

[ptooner]

Hi. I am considering replacing my interior door panels. I will probably use the GAHH kit (about 350 for both sides in MB Tex). Has anyone used these specifically? My main question is -- does the hard pocket and arm rest portion just come as a loose piece that I have to have "stuffed" or covered? Anyone done this themselves or did they farm it out to upholstery shop? Thx.

First off, I used the leather kit from World Upholstery for mine.  I did the first panel myself, and the only real difficulty was attaching the aluminum piece from the top of the old door panel to the new piece of hardboard.  In retrospect I'd have just glued it.  Anyway, I paid a professional to do the second one and wound up doing it over myself because he did such poor work.  It is a slow arduous job, but not particularly difficult.  The solution for wrapping the door pockets in leather was just to soak the piece of leather and place it over the framework with clothespins.  Then after it dried, you just attach it with spray adhesive.  I should mention I found the folks at World uph http://www.worlduph.com/mb6.htm  very helpful over the telephone when I was stumped. 

Gerry

[Rolf]

James,

 The MB_Tex is not adhered to the panel. It's cut to fit though. I am having a professional do the interior. I don't have the time right now, nor the patience.

[J. Huber]

So I have started my Door Panel project. While I am waiting for the new panels, I decided to pull the old ones and do a little cleaning up in there. My window guides and regulators all seem fine and all the mechanics of the door are pretty good. The doors look like 48 year old doors inside though and it is clear that the plastic sheeting has not been in place for a longtime.

One thing that troubled me is, on the driver's door, where the door check cam is secured to the door, I seem to have a broken bracket. If you look at picture number one, you see the fissure on this piece that is held on by screws. What is strange to me is this looks much different than the passenger's side (pic 2) which is just flush to the door. Has anyone else seen this variation? Wondering if that part is available? Also notice in picture 2 the piece of MB-tex that is glued to the door. Thought it was interesting...

[66andBlue]

Hi James,
the door brackets on my 1966 230SL are identical on both sides and look just like your passenger door.
Looks like the door was repaired - but then so many things are different on an early 230SL, who knows? Got any repair records to verify?

[jacovdw]

James,

It looks like your driver's door has been repaired some time in the past.
Interesting fix, but not very effective by the looks of it.

[J. Huber]

I'll look through my records although anything pre-1978 is the "Dark Ages..." (nothing).

What is interesting is, the broken piece has the cavity where the large bolt goes just like the other door. So it is not just a casing framing the cutout -- its a unique and molded piece. Does that make sense?

[114015]

Hello James,

My impression after having seen a few other "early" 230ies is the following.

1) The attachment bay where the door check cam is secured to the door was broken in the past on your driver's door. "They" fixed that with this kind of screwed-on metal bracket.
Best repair would be to get the broken piece aluminum MIG/WIG welded to the door frame.

2) The half-way painted vinyl piece on the passenger's door looks ... uhm, custom made.
Never seen that before & does not make sense to me. Especially not with this kind of overspray.

3) Your old door panel looks perfect from the MB Tex.
I would not want to replace that if I were you!    The new ones from GAHH or elsewhere will _always_ look different (grain, color of MB Tex). BTW, have you asked them for your correct early-style armrests?
I recommend to keep the old door panels but just replace the cardboard panel behind the MB-Tex. That one is available separately. And keep all the remainder: felt, MB-Tex, armrest and door pocket AS IS.
Don't destroy the original !  

4) Ptooner is right. One tricky area is the re-attaching of the aluminum piece from the top of the old door panel to the new piece of c/hardboard. It was riveted in place at the factory. Maybe you want to replace these by small screws.
I have not found an adequate substitute for that kind of rivets for my own car yet.

5) The missing the plastic sheeting needs to be replaced, sure.



Good luck & keep us updated

Achim

[69280sl]

quote "4) Ptooner is right. One tricky area is the re-attaching of the aluminum piece from the top of the old door panel to the new piece of c/hardboard. It was riveted in place at the factory. Maybe you want to replace these by small screws.
I have not found an adequate substitute for that kind of rivets for my own car yet."

I used pop rivets backed up with the washers specifically made for pop rivets. Worked fine.

Gus

[J. Huber]

Hey Achim. I am on the fence about replacing the vinyl. Many in the know have pleaded with me to use the original, and I hear ya guys. One reason is the newer stuff isn't the same blue (maybe a shade lighter?) and the grain is "cheaper" looking. However, my seats, dash, kickpanels, and A-pillars are already the replacement variety -- so in reality I would be matching new with new, with the exception of the soft-top lid vinyl and that behind the b-pillar which would remain original. And it is true that the original panel vinyl is in quite good shape, although there are a few blemishes on the arm rest seams and scuffs on the hard pockets. So here is my current plan: buy the panels and the vinyl but attempt to re-use the original. If I can make it work, and possibly even remedy the problem areas, that will be cool. If not, I will have the new vinyl to try again. (all this assuming GAHH wouldn't later sell me just the vinyl?) They might.

Thanks for the heads up about the early armrests. I'll confirm.

[jszeman1]

Hello James

I have a friend who painted the MB text in a 65 230sl.  It looks outstanding, has no wear issues and has patina and a color that was not available.  Just a thought.

[perry113]

Hi.
John S. is referring to my car. I am extremely happy that I decided to restore and redye my 230SL interior. It's only original once. The original vinyl is indestructible. All vinyl covering on my car is the original and dyed using SEM products. The material needs to be done with a professional spray system (not a spray can system). That way you can try to dial the color in to match to the new stuff. Saved a ton vs. replacing the entire interior with leather. See pictures.

[perry113]

Most would have replaced my interior. It was rough. It was all different colors and the card board door panels were rotted. I carefully removed the vinyl from the original rotted panel. Rather than spending a couple of hundred on a pair of pre made panels that would have to be fit anyway, I went to my local art shop and bought the same thickness hard board for pennies on the dollar. There is special hardware that I was able to get from Bud's Benz to reattach the aluminum on the top on the top of the door panels. Talk to their interior guy for the right stuff. I then used contact cement to recover the panels with the original coverings. I did this with the aluminum pockets and the dash panels. It's amazing how everything came back to life.

[perry113]

 

[Jim Donati]

Peter:
Wow!  I have never seen one of our vehicles with an interior of that color before.   Is that an original color for real?   What color (and combination) is that?

Jim

[J. Huber]

Hey Peter Perry. that is amazing and looks great. I can see why you preserved the original, it was in very decent shape. Mine is not that good but it may work ok. Like I said, if I need to use the replacement MB Tex I will, since my dash, a-pillars, kick panels, and seats are all the new stuff. These parts were not salvageable -- and the fresh stuff was a huge HUGE improvement (now 13 years ago!)...

Now please tell me about this hardware kit from Bud's for reattaching the metal piece!

[perry113]

Peter:
Wow!  I have never seen one of our vehicles with an interior of that color before.   Is that an original color for real?   What color (and combination) is that?

Jim

Yes my car's colors are original Light Ivory with green interior. It's pretty cool.
As to John's question about the door hardware, it wasn't a kit. I made a call to Bud's Benz and they put me in touch with their interior guy on staff. If you are replacing the hardboard you will need to replace the special clips that fasten the aluminum molding to the tops of the hardboard (this is the top rounded edge of the panels.) The guys at bud's will get you there. If you boards are solid then you will be ok.
Also remeber to install a plastic vapor barrier on the door frame before you put everything back together to prevent water and moisture from attacking the hardboard. These cars originally never had them. Thats why the boards rot out. I have roll of plastic and cut them to fit. I use spray adhesive to install.

[thelews]

Yes my car's colors are original Light Ivory with green interior. It's pretty cool.

What is the interior color code on your data card?  I haven't seen what looks like Granny Smith Apple Green in any of the upholstery catalogs.  You should add to or correct our comprehensive WIKI technical manual, which doesn't show it, with this information.

[114015]

Hello Peter,

Wow...!
That looks terrific. Just outstanding.

One survivor (interior) more. Extremely happy to see that.
After >> 20 years of MB ownership I have become a bit dull of "everything new ... but replaced".

One tiny little question (as John "TheLews" mentioned). Which code is that?
I am somehow familiar with the shade of green you had before. But the new one looks more bright, lighter?
Is that true or is it just the lighting effect.

Great result!

Thanks a lot for sharing this with us.

Achim

[perry113]

The code is green 124.

[thelews]

Seems there's a difference...

[perry113]

Seems there's a difference...

What is the interior color code on your data card?  I haven't seen what looks like Granny Smith Apple Green in any of the upholstery catalogs.  You should add to or correct our comprehensive WIKI technical manual, which doesn't show it, with this information.

Over a 50 year period my original colors had faded badly. It was all different shades of green. We tried as best to get the color as close as we could when it was done 5 years ago.

I didn't think I was going up in front of judge law when I decided to share my story.

Maybe next time I decide to re dye my interior I'll have to ask the judge to mix the color.

[thelews]

Dear Perry,

Please do not take offense at my and other members observation of your unique color.  As you may have noticed, we tend to parse all things Pagoda to the finest degree, as if our cars were actually going to be involved in a 113 judging of experts and peers.  Perhaps you've noticed the thread discussing the shape, thread, finish and screw head style of some headlight housing screws that are not even seen when the car is fully assembled.  Or, you may recall the in depth discussion of rocker panel color right down to the exact shade of gray that the factory used.  The overarching goal is not to offend, but to further enrichen our knowledge of the nuances of the Pagoda.  Also, it's very important that any new material be added or corrected in the WIKI technical manual, as it is a reference that is relied on heavily by members of the forum.  Any deviation from Pagoda truth, should be noted and recorded by the person of such knowledge.

Your shade of interior was one I had not seen before, hence the question of the upholstery number on your data card.  The WIKI technical manual did have a sample of 124, as well as samples can be trusted on a computer monitor, which deviated from your hue.  At the very least, we know that either the WIKI sample or your interior is closer to what the true factory color was.  That is the genesis of the discussion of which an answer has not yet been determined.  As with the rocker panels, it is up to the collective wisdom of this forum to achieve truth.


Judge Law