Best Gasoline or Oil for SLs ?

[k]

Anyone have a brand in the US they like [Regular/Premium/Super?]?

Oil?  I use Castrol GTX.

And anyone put any Marvel Myster oil [ 2 stroke oil?] or Techron in fuel?

[Cees Klumper]

For fuel I always put in premium unleaded. Lead is not needed in the W113 engines, as the valve seats were always sufficiently hard from new. But I do like to put in the highest octane available.
For oil, once my engine is broken in from the rebuild it received (only 400 more miles to go), I will use synthetic. It's on conventional oil right now for running-in.
I don't use any additives and don't plan on using it in the future.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[rwmastel]

K,

I've been using premium grade Shell and Marathon for both my cars.  The MB dealer uses Mobile 1 (I think it's 15w40) in the E420.  I use Castrol GTX 20w50 in the 230SL.  The SL has enough wear in the engine that I don't care too much about the oil brand, just the heavy viscosity and frequent changes.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[blairwag]

Fuel:  I run Cam2 100 octane. I have the luxury of it being available in a near by town (Butler NJ on RT 23 source bound).  But if I'm away and run  low, it's always the highest octane premium fuel I can find.

Oil: Only Castol GTX 10w40.  I don't like the thicker viscosity as I think it makes starting too hard. I'd use 10w30 but my valve guides are worn, and already burn too much oil, especially at start ups. I've never been much of a synthetic enthusiast. I'm sure it's good oil, but I just can't justify the cost. Manufacturers say you can use the oil 2 to 5 times longer (miles) but I say NO WAY!  Regardless of viscosity break down, oil gets dirty. I change it every 2000 miles. I change the filter at the same interval. It's just inexpensive maintenance.


--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
William Blair Wagner: blairwag@earthlink.net
Education is not always knowing the answer,
...but rather knowing where to look for it!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

[Joe]

I guess I'm the odd guy here, because I use regular unleaded. Admittedly, I've just started driving the car "regularly", but it seems to run ok on this fuel. I've not even tried premium. Should I? The engine doesn't ping at all.
We are at 6000 feet above sea level, and I think octane requirements are lower at this altitude.
The oil was changed right before I got the car, and I've not done it myself yet. When I do, I'll use Mobil 1 10-30.
Joe
1965 Euro Manual

[n/a]

100 Octane may do serious damage to your engine.  Higher octane ignites at a higher temperature and could burn out your valve seals.  You should use the lowest octane that prevents knocks.   Mine knocks with less than 93 so thats what I use.  Most people believe higher octane is "better", but it just prevents fuel from preigniting (knocking).  Your performance only increases if the engine is tuned for that fuel (the W113 Engine is not).  Premium fuel does contain more detergents to break down deposites however.

1969 280SL 4-Speed

[JPMOSE]

Shell Premium Gas

Amsoil 10W-40 Synthetic Oil

Redline Synthetic Transmission Fluid

Years ago I used Marvel Mystery Oil added to fuel and may start again.  Cees noted recently that past threads have concluded that fuel additives are not much benefit to Pagoda engines.



Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL

[CarlG]

I only use Chevron premium because it already contains techron.  Since my rebuild a few years ago I use Mobil One.

1967 230sl (stick)

[Raymond]

There are good previous threads on oil on this site. Do a search for some enlightening, thorough discussions.

The abbreviated story is the engines are higher compression than most modern engines and premium fuel is recommended.  My original owners manual addresses changing the timing if premium is not available.  

Mercedes now specifies only synthetic oil for all of its engines old and new.  There are multiple good reasons and no negatives other than price.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

Fuel:  I run Cam2 100 octane. I have the luxury of it being available in a near by town (Butler NJ on RT 23 source bound).  But if I'm away and run  low, it's always the highest octane premium fuel I can find.

Oil: Only Castol GTX 10w40.  I don't like the thicker viscosity as I think it makes starting too hard. I'd use 10w30 but my valve guides are worn, and already burn too much oil, especially at start ups. I've never been much of a synthetic enthusiast. I'm sure it's good oil, but I just can't justify the cost. Manufacturers say you can use the oil 2 to 5 times longer (miles) but I say NO WAY!  Regardless of viscosity break down, oil gets dirty. I change it every 2000 miles. I change the filter at the same interval. It's just inexpensive maintenance.


--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
William Blair Wagner: blairwag@earthlink.net
Education is not always knowing the answer,
...but rather knowing where to look for it!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Blair, I like your signature My dad always said "Son you don't have to know everything, just know where to find it and when you do know what to do with it" I always used it during my long engineering currier

As for gas I use Shell Super and oil will be the same that MERCEDES uses for my 2011 C350 4Matic

[Flyair]

I use Shell or BP Regular 95 octane and for oil Castrol Classic 20w50 mineral. Now, as I get my car from renovation, I plan to use ZDDP additive for the first oil change.

[Benz Dr.]

I use 92 octain or better and 10 W 40 synthetic. I also use Comp Cams zinc additive in all of my engine builds ( full bottle ) and about a half bottle for oil changes. I change my oil once a year and change the filter once during the season.
My engine will also run well on regular. Unleaded fuel will burn at a higher temp than leaded did but I've never heard of high octain doing damage to your engine.

[paults1]

Does anyone know what the increase in the ZDDP unit level is when added to the API sm & sn oils. I contacted Eastwood about there ZDDP additive but they could not get the information from their supplier.

[dakman29]

I run premium fuel, not too picky about the brand as long as it's not an off-brand, so either Shell, Conoco, Texaco, Chevron or Exxon.  As for motor oil, I was told by Scott Melnick when I had the motor rebuilt to use nothing but Kendall, so that's what I've done.  I use 20-50 as I rarely drive the car in cold weather.

[zoegrlh]

I run Prem. Fuel, and Castol GTX High Mileage oil.  Also I use "VERY IMPORTANT",  ZDDP Plus.  Our old engines need zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate for the lifters.  Todays oils do not have zine levels that our engines requier.
Bob 

[garymand]

http://www.mbca.org/tech-talk/tech-articles  MBCA Documents\Engine Oil Technical Presentation, Every gearhead has an opinion about engine oils; each has a favorite oil that he or she knows with absolute certainty is “the best oil in the world.”   "1947 – 1975 gasoline-engine vehicles, use CI-4/SL, Mineral base if less than 3,000 annual miles; use CI-4/SL Synthetic base if over 3,000 annual miles.  Warm-up for ~15 seconds and drive lightly until at operating temperature.  and  Do NOT put an after-market ZDDP additive into your crankcase on any engines.
Use ONLY the correct oil for your engine as produced by the oil company.  ZDDP additives can create ash and sludge when added to an existing oil formulation.  You don’t need that problem."

Find the whole slide set if you like data over opinion.  Sorry, you won't find much more than opinion and bias on gas. I do know:  In California "the" gas formula is strictly regulated and passes serially from the very few refiners through the same supply lines to the different gas companies' depots.  IMO, they are formulated the same without enough differences to make any difference.  And Oil performance is regulated and tested

My experience since 1970: My 250sl has used the cheapest regular gas I can find: usually ARCO.  I also use the cheapest oil but correctly spec'd 10-40, changed at 3k driven or not.  More than once, it has sat for at least a year with no starts.  It always starts right up!  I have never used additives.  But I do understand and use timing advance.  I now live at 2000 feet so I can run most year at 10 degrees advance w/no ping.  If it pings just reduce the advance to make it happey.  I have 86K on the motor and just took the head off: I just started commuting 100 miles a day and wanted to change the chain and make sure the gasket, valves, and cylinders can take the abuse.  Wow, very clean. The valves look new and no deposits to mention, no valve issues except for 2 rockers that have some wear at the valve pads, cam is great.  The gasket was a little shaky between the cylinders. 

I am currently adjusting the FIP using premium and when I'm done, I'll go back to regular and see if it has any effect.

[Rodolfo]

I am using castrol GTX 15W-40 High Mileage.
I tank unleaded RON 98.

Guess that will be ok,

best regards, Rudy

[simonarn]

For fuel I always put in premium unleaded. Lead is not needed in the W113 engines, as the valve seats were always sufficiently hard from new. But I do like to put in the highest octane available.
For oil, once my engine is broken in from the rebuild it received (only 400 more miles to go), I will use synthetic. It's on conventional oil right now for running-in.
I don't use any additives and don't plan on using it in the future.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

Thanks Cees.
I have always used the super unleaded and used the additive, following advice from my garagiste. Am I doing any harm to my engine or am I simply wasting money?
Simon 1968 280sl

[71Beige280SL]

As I read this thread, there are certainly lots of interesting perspectives. Based on previous discussions on zinc additives, I bought some ZDDP and was going to use it on my next oil change. Based on garymand's reference to the MBCA tech article, it has caused me pause. I will read it. Benz Dr. has been very consistent on using zinc additives as has a number of other members. The good news for me, I had my valve cover gasket changed the other day. Everything look like new. It looked like the PO did a rebuild a few years ago.

I took my Old Boy for a short 40 mile run yesterday. The engine just purrs, has no leaks and burns very little oil. Maybe I should leave it alone for the time being. I run 93 octane and use Mercedes Benz 10W40 oil.

Having said all that, what I am summarizing from all the great discussion and varying practices...our engines are incredibly resilient.

[dseretakis]

Brad Penn 20W50. It has plenty of ZDDP. Also Valvoline VR1 racing has high ZDDP levels.

[FRITZ68]

I am in Ohio and all of our gas contains about 15% Ethanol, which I do not like, as it attacks all rubber components in the fuel system (fuel pumps, carburetors, fuel line hoses, gas tank, etc.).  There are no gas stations in our area that sell non-Ethanol fuel and it is not even necessary that they post the Ethanol content on the pumps.  I use 93 octane premium fuel and add about 10% to 20% of 100 octane low lead aviation fuel (to dilute the Ethanol and to add a small amount of lead). I also always add about 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil per 10 gallons of fuel in hopes that it will provide a little extra help.

Back in my high school days, a good friend of mine had a really smooth running 1940 Dodge, and he always added a small amount of #10 motor oil to his car at every fill-up. (added quantity of oil unknown).  He claimed it kept his engine running good, and based on my observation at the time, feel he was right.  As a result of this, I have been adding about 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to 10 gallons of fuel to all of my antique vehicles for many years. I don't know for sure if adding the Marvel Mystery Oil helps, but it has never caused any problems.  I always used MMM in my boat as well, based on the recommendation of an old timer in Florida many years ago.  This is probably a mental thing, but I do not feel that such a small amount can do any harm and just might provide a little extra lubrication.

On other cars, I have always added some ZDDP to the oil after having an engine rebuild, but not later, although I have often thought that a few ounces in the oil might not hurt.

Another theory regards keeping the fuel tank full to minimize moisture.  This is not necessarily the case, based on the information provided in the video below:   

Here is a video from Outboard Motor Repair in Florida:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw6aUX_2Bn8

[Bill Anthis]

I have been adding lead to a high octane gasoline and my exhaust is not smoking as it had in the past.  Could that have helped?
 

[thelews]

Rotella T triple protection diesel 15 W 40.  All the good stuff, reasonably priced. Can find it everywhere ($13/gallon @ Walmart). Even outperforms the expensive Brad Penn I was using.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35836

[Jack Jones]

I can't speak for all of Canada but in Ontario Shell premium is the only fuel available that does not contain ethanol. For oil I use Mobile 1 15W50.

[Bonnyboy]

Out here on the wet coast of BC (Canada)  I use Chevron 94 exclusively in everything I got that was made prior to 1984.    I think Esso premium is also ethanol free.

http://pure-gas.org/  seems to be a good site to find ethanol free stations.