Author Topic: Hose clamps: which are best, and where to get them  (Read 7574 times)

blairwag

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Hose clamps: which are best, and where to get them
« on: May 11, 2004, 21:31:08 »
Well, I've gotten to my coolant leak. I think it's due to the corosive nature of the chemical used to flush the cooling system. I've always hated that stuff. Anyway, I'm going to replace all rubber hoses in my cooling system.
My question to you all is this. What type of hose clamps do you all use. I've always used the new shiney ones, so common here in the USA. But the clamps I've taken off this lil MB 280SL are so much nicer. They seem stonger, more resistent to rust, and the cranking mechanism is more compact, and sturdier.
Attached is a picture. The 2 clamps on the left are the common ones I'm used to using. The ones on the right are the clamps off this car.

Which do you all prefer?

Where can I get these better clamps?   ...other than MB!  I'd like to pay a reasonable price for them, if possible ;-)



Download Attachment: hoseclamps.jpg
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William Blair Wagner: blairwag@earthlink.net
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mdsalemi

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Re: Hose clamps: which are best, and where to get them
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2004, 07:45:31 »
Blairwag and others,

This hose clamp issue has always been a topic of discussion.  The questions you must ask yourself are  a) do you simply want clamps that work, b)are you looking for "some measure" of correctness or accuracy, or c) looking for the utmost in accuracy.

for a) just use those "fat-a**" American style clamps that you can find anywhere, from The Home Depot to any plumbing supply store.  Note that these come in generally two varieties--all stainless and stainless band only.  Home Depot and stores like that will generally have stainless bands only; all stainless are best found at plumbing supply houses, fastener stores, etc.  they are cheap, readily available, and work.  If you don't have a concours car, these might be just fine.  I'd go with the all stainless variety.

b) For some measure of historical accuracy, you'll want a European style clamp such as a Wurth.  You can find these at some foreign auto parts places, and most of the "usual gang of suspects" that cater to 190SL and 113 chassis cars.  You know who they are.  S&S Imports in Dallas (Will Samples) carried these in a variety of different sizes.  My local MB mechanic had other sources for similar (Beru comes to mind) style clamps.  I understand if you have made this attempt at clamps, you will not be penalized in a concours, even if they are not 100% accurate.  At least that's what I remember Pete Lesler saying last year when he looked at mine...

c)  For extreme restorations or for complete accuracy, I think the general consensus is that the "made to measure" clamps using fittings and raw banding is the way to go.  I believe most of us thought this kind of clamping system was "NLA".  However, yesterday I discovered that one MB parts dealer does indeed have these setups and had just supplied a bunch of the material for a 190SL restoration.  His name is Randy Steele, "The mbpartsguy" and can be contacted at: randy@epsparts.com / TEL:800-334-2749 / TEL:805-683-4020 /FAX:805-683-3689 5960 Mandarin Ave. Goleta, CA 93117 P.O. Box 6783 Santa Barbara, CA 93160 http://www.epsparts.com  I have no direct experience with him, the topic just came up in conversation.

When my car was restored, the restorer (who should have known better!  :evil: ) used the large American clamps.  When I brought it in for a tuneup to the local independent MB mechanic, he said it is a shame to have this "detailed" engine bay with these grossly inaccurate clamps.  When it went back in the next time, they were changed to the narrow European clamps.  What is particularly funny is that the mechanic originally did not want to work on "that old thing", but once he got it, he "got into it" and helped with some things like this clamp issue. :)

Hope this helps.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL


Mike Salemi
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
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Jonny B

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Re: Hose clamps: which are best, and where to get them
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2004, 08:02:41 »
Use the search feature with "hose clamp" and go to a recent thread about engine bay details that speaks to the clamps used on the engine. They are a mix of the "Gemi" (original) (current replacement "Norma") and the band it yourself with the cotter key type twist. There is also an excellent detail picture of an original engine bay. Pete Lesler has some of the banding material, as does Kevin at Millers' (there are two widths, and Kevin should be able to help with that). I suspect our other parts folks would to.

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto
Jonny B
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rwmastel

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Re: Hose clamps: which are best, and where to get them
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2004, 12:53:53 »
Blairwag,

One thing you will notice about the clamps in your picture is the edge of the band.  The ones on the left will have an edge or corner to the banding.  The ones on the right will have a rounded band edge.  This helps prevent the band from cutting into the rubber over time.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
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Rodd

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230SL67

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Re: Hose clamps: which are best, and where to get them
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2004, 15:20:38 »
I recently purchased the original German Norma hose clamps from Pete Lesler for my `67 230SL.  I have attached a listing of all of the clamps that I needed.  Over the years MB has changed the outside diameter of the replacement hoses that they now sell only in bulk.  These clamps come in a specified metric diameter and are designed to not crush the hose and can not be overtightened (to a certain extent).  I also bought the Beru clamp material from Pete which is the strap and cotter pin for my brake booster lines.  According to Pete, this was also used on the heater lines as well.  I hope this helps, it pays to buy all of the hoses first.

Chris



Download Attachment: Hose Clamps.doc
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