Door window removal

[flatiron]

Hello,
I'm re-epoxying the window slide guides at the bottom of the passenger side glass. So far, with the help of this forum, I have removed the door panel, the chrome strip covering the outer whisker, the whiskers, and now I'm stuck. I want to clean the glass of the grease from the slides, but I still can't remove the window. The steel attached to the glass bottom is very securely attached and looks to be a pain to reattach if I can manage to remove it. Is there a trick to this? Does everyone who reattached the guides clean the glass while it's still in the door?
Thanks for the help on this and other projects.

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, flatiron,

The glass is attached to the bottom rail with 4 screws and sandwiched between rubber gaskets.
You may have to pry off the flat iron (!!) strip to unstick the rubber.
There are also rubber spacer washers in the glass holes. Dont lose them!
If both inner amd outer whiskers are off the door, the gaps at the ends of the door will allow the guides on the glass to be correctly installed onto the runner channels.

More info: http://www.sl113.org/wiki/ChassisBody/Windows

Naj

[mdsalemi]

Flatiron,

Naj's photos don't really show the rubber gasket.  But, his description is spot-on accurate on removal.

When replacing, my rubber was not reusable, and you do not want direct glass to metal contact here (or in most places for that matter...)

I found two materials that work well.  The first is "craft foam" which you can buy in sheets (very cheap) at craft and art supply stores.  It looks like colored paper but is actually thin foam.  I think the thinnest stuff is about 1/16" (.0625") before any compression.  The other was a roll of rubber.  Have no idea where I found it, but probably at an auto parts store.  Like a roll of electrical tape but it is rubber and made by 3M.

I also put a piece of this craft foam (which comes in plain and self stick varieties) on the bottom of my door.  You see, due to the variabilities in window adjustment with the top(s) up, when my window was all the way down, one of the metal arms was just barely making contact with the bottom of the door.  This made an unbelievable racket of noise (as if we need more noise in these cars...) when I was crusing, and hit some bumps with the window down.  The foam on the bottom of the door provided a little cushion for the arm and the noise went away.

So, while you have your door open, and while you are adjusting everything, verify that the arms are NOT making contact with the bottom of the door with the window properly adjusted and all the way down.  If you do have contact, add that foam.

[Larry & Norma]

I used a bicycle inner tube as replacement rubber shim, just trim to size. Works a treat.

[dldubois]

Wiki has great detail.  I just re-epoxied mine and will now go find an inner tube.....good by rattling windows.

[Naj ✝︎]

The picture show the door glass movement limiter.

Moving the bracket up or down on the slot limits how high the glass goes when wound up.

Screwing the rubber bump stop up or down sets the limit on how far the glass winds down into the door.

Naj

[mdsalemi]

The picture show the door glass movement limiter.

Moving the bracket up or down on the slot limits how high the glass goes when wound up.

Screwing the rubber bump stop up or down sets the limit on how far the glass winds down into the door.

Naj

This assumes that you have all the internal parts and that they are all from the same door.  That isn't always the case, as the case was with mine.  You may not have the limiter and due to the geometry of all the parts and where they may have been salvaged, you might have a problem.  I did.  Of course I wished I had the original door but I did not.

[ironclad]

Hello,
I have succeeded almost to the point of completion. Thanks to Naj and other worthwhile replies. I was looking forward to completion with no spare parts, but while tapping the door panel into place I heard something hit the floor. I looked down and found one thing that was out of place and in the vicinity of the door. The bushing in the photo is aluminum and has the patina you'd expect from 32 years. The crank is just for size reference. I don't remember this part anywhere in the disassembly, but before I button it up, I thought I'd ask the forum ... Does anyone recognize this as part of the door?
Thanks again.