Author Topic: Heater knob - this can't be good...  (Read 7610 times)

Ulf

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Heater knob - this can't be good...
« on: June 27, 2011, 14:25:25 »
Yesterday, I turned the heater blower knob to max only to see smoke rising from the wooden loudspeaker grille and a distinct smell of burning plastic (while my Triumph used to catch fire behind the dashboard quite often, I didn't expect this in a German car). I switched if off and removed the knob by turning the bezel holding it in place, feeling behind the dash, it seemed okay, but since putting it back together, I can't seem to turn the knob as far as before (it used to turn easily, then give a click before reaching max). It also doesn't blow as much air as before, but at least it doesn't catch fire anymore. I checked the fuses and they are all fine, should I just leave it as it is or replace it? And how difficult is it to replace?

1965 230 SL in silver (DB180)
1982 Land Rover Series III SWB
2008 Jaguar XF 3.0
2005 Mini Cooper

jacovdw

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2011, 14:34:38 »
Better to replace it Ulf.
You surely don't want a potential fire hazard in your pagoda...  ;)

Not too difficult to replace if I remember correctly. Pull hard to remove the knob, then you need to carefully unscrew the bezel in a counter clockwise direction.
Unless you have very small hands with long fingers, it would be easier to remove the glovebox to gain access to the electrical connector at the rear of the switch.


Ulf

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2011, 14:41:54 »
I agree, just surfed around SLS and Niemöller, but I can't seem to find that knob or rather the switch behind the dashboard anywhere.
Maybe I should have a go at it, and replace a few bulbs in the instruments and the dimmer switch while I'm at it...

Ulf

PS: Have big hands, with stubby fingers...
1965 230 SL in silver (DB180)
1982 Land Rover Series III SWB
2008 Jaguar XF 3.0
2005 Mini Cooper

jacovdw

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2011, 14:47:42 »
If you can't find a new switch, the W110 and W111 fintails used the exact same switch than the 230SL's.

The switches that are available for the later cars lack the internal bulb that gives you a faint spec of light in the centre of the knob.

al_lieffring

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2011, 15:18:53 »
This happened to my 230sl many many years ago back when it was my daily driver, on the coldest day in January, of course. The problem was the fan motor had shorted out and that was what caused the switch to burn up.
What I guess I am saying is you need to look into this a little deeper than just finding a replacement switch, If you cant find the 230 style switch I have a used 280 style switch (no light bulb) with the large knob and blue arrow.

Al Lieffring

Ulf

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2011, 06:06:15 »
Thanks Al, but how can the heater motor still blow if it is shorted? It works, but I can only get appr. 75% of the airflow that I used to when on max, it seems like I just can't turn the knob far enough to reach max...
1965 230 SL in silver (DB180)
1982 Land Rover Series III SWB
2008 Jaguar XF 3.0
2005 Mini Cooper

al_lieffring

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #6 on: June 28, 2011, 13:27:59 »
I believe that I may have put in a higher amperage fuse to keep the blower running a little while longer before my switch burnt up, I was 19 years old and it was cold.
But I do think you should unplug the switch and put a junper across the terminals at the plug to see if the blower will run at high speed without blowing the fuse.

scoot

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2011, 15:23:30 »

Not too difficult to replace if I remember correctly. Pull hard to remove the knob, then you need to carefully unscrew the bezel in a counter clockwise direction.
No no no.  You do not need to pull the knob off of the bezel.  Just unscrew the bezel - they stay together.

I have extra switches but I do not believe that the switch is the problem.  I think a wire fried / shorted out and that replacing the switch is not relevant.
Scott Allen
'67 250 SL (early)
Altadena, California

Ulf

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2011, 06:55:07 »
Sounds reasonable Scoot, will try and find the time to fiddle with it this weekend
1965 230 SL in silver (DB180)
1982 Land Rover Series III SWB
2008 Jaguar XF 3.0
2005 Mini Cooper

jacovdw

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #9 on: July 04, 2011, 14:44:57 »
...you do not need to pull the knob off of the bezel.  Just unscrew the bezel - they stay together...

I am aware that you can remove the knob and the bezel as a single entity.
In my case I had to pull the knob off as the previous owner over tightened the bezel and damaged it in the process.

The first and second picture illustrates the early blower switch.
The third picture shows the clear plastic "light guide".

Lastly, the fourth picture shows the knob and bezel separated. Note the split ring on the metal shaft of the knob responsible for locking the knob in the bezel.

scoot

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Re: Heater knob - this can't be good...
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2011, 15:56:19 »
I am aware that you can remove the knob and the bezel as a single entity.
In my case I had to pull the knob off as the previous owner over tightened the bezel and damaged it in the process.
I have removed probably 30 of these switches from various cars.   Pulling off the knob, while possible, doesn't really help anything because you still need snap ring pliers with tips that adjust to 45 degrees to get the bezel off.  If it's really stuck, turning the potentiometer unit itself from the backside can help loosen the bezel.   For me it is best and easiest to unscrew the bezel without removing the knob.
Scott Allen
'67 250 SL (early)
Altadena, California