Author Topic: coolant  (Read 7133 times)

davids

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coolant
« on: June 30, 2011, 19:43:24 »
1971 280sl coolant constantly coming out the overflow tank when running?

Peter van Es

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Re: coolant
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2011, 20:12:45 »
Either you've overfilled, or you have a vapour lock, or a blocked coolant line, or a more serious problem.

Peter
1970 280SL. System Admin of the site. Please do not mail or PM me questions on Pagoda's... I'm not likely to know the answer.  Please post on the forum instead!

bogeyman

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Re: coolant
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2011, 20:25:05 »
Have you checked the cap?
Rick Bogart
1970 280SL Black(040)/Parchment
1969 280SL Silver(180)/Green
1993 500E
1972 350SL
1995 E320 Cabrio

davids

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Re: coolant
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2011, 23:10:49 »
with the cap off ,after just a few minutes running ,coolant flow is steady coming out the overflow until i shut car down .temp rises very quickly.

J. Huber

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Re: coolant
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2011, 23:49:02 »
First of all, if temp is rising -- do not run it for long. Obvious but must mention it.

It sounds like maybe the thermostat is shot? or there is some kind of blockage. What is your radiator/maintenance history?
James
63 230SL

ja17

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Re: coolant
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2011, 02:01:19 »
Yes, whats the history of this problem,?
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
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1965 220SE Finback

Benz Dr.

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Re: coolant
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2011, 04:19:44 »
I had the same problem after a rebuild on a late 280SL. It puked out a lot of coolant before I got it sorted out.
Normally I run just plain water in the engine while I'm doing the intital start up and break in. Since this was a winter build I had to use coolant - what a mess.

 I solved this by using a thermostat cover with a screw in cap - it may have been a plug for a 100 C switch. I opened the cap and let all the air release and it was perfect after that.
 With this problem the engine will over heat very quickly and the temp gage will spike in a minuet or two whereas a normal heating up period will be slow and gradual by comparison.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

davids

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Re: coolant
« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2011, 18:14:19 »
new radiator,new water pump, just replaced thermostate again,pullled system apart to see if i hade a blockage,everything seamed well,but when i was flushing threw heater core water didnt seam to go threw very well,noticed the valve was half open , so i opened all the way then water flowed threw fine .put everythig back together now everything seems fine.but dont know if was a blockage or got air trapped in system ,because heater core was half open and water was not flowing threw freely. any thoughts. Thanks 

ja17

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Re: coolant
« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2011, 20:30:59 »
Hello,

Most likely a air lock.  The top tank of the radiator will become hot when the coolant begins to circulate. If the top tank of the radiator does not get hot, turn the engine off before it overheats, let it set, than add more coolant. Repeat until the radiator top tank gets hot.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

tel76

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Re: coolant
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2011, 07:19:36 »
When i recently first started the engine after refitting, i lost a lot of coolant due to airlock i overcame it for the future with this modification.
Remove the nearside heater hose on the heater radiator, (you could use the rhs but the lhs is easier to do) mark where the hose clip fits,drill a small hole in the top of the pipe,refit hose and clip but leave the hole exposed,fill with coolant and as you do so you will hear the air being expelled,when coolant comes out of your drilled hole push the hose and clip back on making sure the small hole is under the clip.
Eric

Garry

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Re: coolant
« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2011, 07:59:10 »
Eric,

what did you do to stop the end of the heater pipe from rusting now that it has the hole with unprotected metal there?

Garry
Garry Marks
Melbourne/ Kyneton, Brisbane. Australia
1969 MB 280SL 5 speed RHD SOLD.
1965 MB 230SL Auto RHD Lt Blue 334G, Top 350H, Tourist Delivery.
1972 MB 280CE Auto RHD 906G
2005 MB A200
2006 MB B200
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tel76

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Re: coolant
« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2011, 09:00:10 »
Hello Garry,
The pipe is brass,so no rust issues.
Eric

Bill Sgro

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Re: coolant
« Reply #12 on: June 09, 2013, 23:50:22 »
Should the expansion tank cap be on and the system be pressurized when trying to eliminate and airlock?
1970 280SL
1970 300SEL 3.5

Benz Dr.

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Re: coolant
« Reply #13 on: June 12, 2013, 22:55:45 »
I tend to keep the cap off until all of the air is released from the system. You can also lower your running temp about 5 degrees by using water wetter. Sometimes that's enough to keep it in a safe range.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC